My 250 Swap

Hey Seth can you take a pic of your alternator bracket setup cause my alternator is on the other side up top and I want to change it so I can install an HEI distributor?

I had to use the one off of my 170. It looks like this, http://www.falconparts.com/ford-falcon-auto-parts/pc/1960-1964-ALTERNATOR-BRACKETS-FOR-6-CYL-ENGINES-24p157.htm.

The swing bolts to one of the water pump bolts and is installed upside down from what you may assume, bending upwards. It would probably work the other way with a 1G or 2G alternator or maybe even the smaller 90 amp 3g. The main hang up is the upper third mounting boss on the 250 block has to be cut away or the alternator can't swing inboard enough.



The belt size ended up being a #7385

Why do you want an HEI? What are you running now?

I don't know what the hell I have but it just seems to be too much shit in there and I would like to minimize the bs.

Yeah, that hei distributor is a massive thing itself though. DS2 distributor with hei module and a heatsink maybe best of both worlds?

Seth,
I was wondering if you have driven your van enough to get some early mpg numbers? I've got a 200 I'm putting back together while looking for an increase in hp and torque while keeping good mpg numbers. I keep thinking I'll get mine buttoned up & broken in.
Jim

Not yet Jim. I still need to mount the trans cooler and the lines. Engineer and run the shift mech/bracket/cable and make a mount for the TV cable and attach it to the carb at the right point in the throttle geometry. I have everything to do it all and then I'll get the drive shaft made and hopefully be on the road. I have hope that it will do upper teens in town and lower mid 20's or better on the highway. I'll let you know for sure.

Got a little update. I got the transmission mount installed. Got the AOD TV cable installed. Got both brackets for the shift cable made, I'm waiting for the correct heim joints to finish that up. I got the trans cooler mounted behind the grill and all the trans cooler lines plumbed. Seat brackets/frames made and installed. I've received the 2 degree axle shims to correct the rear pinion angle but haven't gotten them in yet. Timing and idle all are set good, she fires right off and idles well once warmed up a little. Choke is working good. I have a problem with the fast idle cam not being engaged properly that I need to adjust then should be able to turn the key and walk away.  

List of things left to do are finish the shift linkage, install the axle shims, measure for and have new driveshaft made, install relays for neutral safety and fan, connect wiring from back up lights to transmission switch, tidy up/sleeve the wiring. Move ignition module out of doghouse, put the parking brake lever system back in and connected to rear system. Fab and install/weld-in outer engine crossmember mounts, replace inner crossmember shims with heavier 1" square tube with end caps welded on or move inner mounts down and re-weld to frame. Have exhaust tubing bent to connect the head pipe to the muffler/exhaust system. Set up the TV cable/trans pressure and break in the new 3.7:1 third member.

You've been a busy boy! I have to admit, I goofed off two weekends in a row. Weather was too nice and I went motorcycle riding. Sounds like you're getting close.

I got the 2° shims in and the angles are damn near perfect. I ordered the driveshaft, it's 15 3/4". I got the ignition module out of the doghouse and the shift linkage in and it works great. I'm working on the shift gate mechanism. I need to make front pipe in the exhaust to connect to the old but new 2.25" muffler/glasspack/tailpipe

I had to work all weekend, so I didn't make much progress. I rolled the odometer back last weekend and found an asst of colored leds cheap on ebay. They came in so I installed them and fixed a problem with one of my plate lights and another problem with the e-flashers and signals. Got the shift cable brackets painted and reinstalled. Picked up some 80/90 for the rear end and some more dex/merc to top off the trans.

Looks nice. Did you do the background light with Led too? You did a lot for a weekend you had to work

Thanks Tice. Yeah, they're all led's. I'm going to have to solder/wire in a resister across the 'gen' led I think to ensure the alternator turns on. The kit came with 2 blue, 2 red, 2 green, 2 white, and 2 arctic white for $9 shipped. All with a single led forward facing and ba9s bodies. I forgot to kick on the high beam for that pic... I didn't use the arctic wht and had 1 blue left over. Not sure if they will dim correctly b/c my dimmer doesn't work. Driveshaft should arrive this week

I've put a couple hundred miles on her, still working out a few kinks, but loving every minute She starts yght up, purrs like a kitten and runs like a beaut, almost

Congrats Seth, Glad to hear you're on the Road again! You deserve it...Enjoy it brother!!!

Lot of good info. I'm working on almost the same conversion except on a 63 Econo Pick Up. 250 with a C-4.

Did you ever post any photos of your trans mount? Also trying to sort out the headers -- I'm new to the forum, have not been able to find the posts from stanyon that are mentioned.

Is the C4 out of a 65-67 240 van? If not you should consider the aod or even the aode or e4od. Nothing like having that 4th .67:1 gear. That's the nice thing about the 250, it has the sbf bell pattern. Honestly if you are going with a C4 in a 63 you should go with a 200 w/ a '64 Econoline C4. It'll be way less work, it's pretty much a drop in deal if you can find the right engine hangers. I wanted/needed that OD gear for the highway.

I can answer any questions you have about the swap. This thread needs a final update b/c alot of stuff changes/plans ideas etc as you get into them and I'm sure there is stuff in here that isn't exactly the way it ended up. All said and 'done' I'm more than happy with the 250. It's a strong motor. I'm coming up on 5K now. It surprises me all the time and puts a smile on my face. It'll shit and get just fine. Light up the tires, or get up to 70 or however brave you feel no problem. I swapped to 3.7:1 gears in the rear end but I bet it'd do more than alright enough w/3.25 too with a little better economy to boot if you roadtrip mostly.

Headers in a 65 pickup:
https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t47590-e_bay-headers

You won't have the clearance problem he had w/ the starter on a 250 esp if you use a 90's oem mini high-torque starter. With the C4 that may be an expensive unit b/c it isn't oem, but they are available.

His was on an 80's low mount starter block 200. The extra 1 1/2" deck height on the 250 makes the clearance. Those headers work on everything BUT the 80-83 200 gray low starter blocks. But you'll still have to do something similar to what stanyon did with the doghouse and the floor. He did a beautiful job of it.

The engine and trans I'm using started life in a 79 Granada. I lowered the engine perches by putting spacers between the perch and the body and I'm getting about 1/4 inch clearance between the bellhousing and back of the doghouse with no cutting and 5 degree driveline angle. Bought a transdapt trans crossmember and am planning on welding vertical plates to frame rails to attach. Almost seems too simple so I keep wondering if I'm missing something.

I've been trying to sort out the headers. Bought the Clay Smith header and similar to what I read in the other post, the front collector is aimed right into the flywheel regardless of starter. Going to try the shortie Bronco header to see if that works any better.

So you are hanging the engine off the oem sht mtl hangers and getting transmission clearance w/o cutting the floor? Is the trans output below the pinion snout? Are you using the 7.25" rear end? What is your pinion angle?

I have it mocked up with a 9" and the pinion is below the trans output shaft. Could not find and actual Econo 9" so I'm having this one cut down and angled to fit but as it sits at 5 degrees I have straight shot to the trans. I know what you're saying about 7.25" -- pinion was above the trans although I don't know that having the pinion above the trans is a problem as long as you match the angles within 2 - 3 degrees -- not an expert on this but haven't found anything that says don't do it.

The way it sits, I lowered the perches about 1" and I have 1/4" clearance to the flange around the doghouse. I'm also considering solid engine mounts to tie everything together since there is no cross member. I'd love to use an engine cross member but have not been able to find one.

jdlaugh wrote:I ran my DSII cables thru the same hole used by the battery cables. You might consider doing the same and mounting the module under the seat on the outside of the doghouse. These things fail from heat stroke and you've got it in the hottest engine box known to man. Imagine you're 50 miles from home and it dies....

A lot of people do convert their systems to an HEI/Duraspark hybrid setup. The HEI modules are said to be rock solid dependable and not bothered by the heat, if properly mounted to a heat sink.

Just to follow up. It did fail and I did gut it and mount an HEI module and use the DSII aluminum shell as a heatsink. Yes I moved it under the drivers seat on the front of the battery box as suggested Still working great.

Btw, to Jim, last I checked I was getting ~14 in town. I like my right foot though. I'd like to get that to 18. Here comes FI. I know I'm running rich at idle and to hell with carbs anyway. I hate them. Today's fuel and the carburetor in a little hot doghouse just don't get along. I swear, at least a tenth of my "mileage" evaporates from the bowl or is spent warming up. It's a townie. Park for 20 minutes and you've lost a bowl's worth plus whatever's in the line till the pressure or heat fades. Modern gas evaporates. That what it does.