how to swap to a v8

how big a deal to change to a 350 chevy in my 66 g-10?
Done a bunch of swaps over the years ,but this one will be different for sure.
been told that the 6 cyl isn't in the center of the van ? if so then don't really like the idea of that when I go to a v8?
gas cable looks to be a bear to figure out as well?
also what is the  easiest way to get the motor out   top or bottom?

DITTO:

Just bought a 65 G.....ALL the same questions.

Suppose to be delivered this week.

Any help with SBC, like a turbo 350 tranny, any help on drive sgaft and tranny support ?

Thanks

V

The doghouse is REALLY tight for a V8, so you need the bigger 2nd Gen doghouse and tunnel to do it right,,,,,there is a special ring mount for a TH350 transmission to hang it from the floor, but most people use a normal crossmember under the trans like from a 3rd Gen to add some other kind of transmission to their van,,,,

The offset keeps the drive line straight. Engine in and out depends on what tools you have available. Most DIYers get by fine with a hoist through the side or front door. Like Don says on the DH it is tight, will need to be altered or changed out or fab something new. V8s need more air flow to keep cool so that has to be figured in. Several ways to get your linkages hooked up. I was thinking that somewhere there is a swap guide on this site? It may be tedious but there are a lot of build threads in the Members showcase section for ideas. Good luck and welcome to the site ! Oh and we love pictures !

Thanks guys.

Gen 3 Dog House is best with a SBC in a 65 G Van?

Want to run long tube headers......what works ?

Next is the radiator. What works .....any aftermarket options.

Thanks guys.

V

Second gen doghouse is best for the V8 swap. Check out this link, scroll down to the video.

https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t31-1st-gen-v-8-conversion

thanks for the info. with the studying ive done so fare ,i''ll just custom modify my first gen box because some one already cut and cobled on it some anyhow , and ill never find a 2nd gen box around here.
the gas cable and header clearance is my main concerns ,and I was told that the engine or the box sets to one side more [havint measured yet ,so don't know yet ] but I did knotice when I changed the seat out that the pass side was tighter than the driver side? that could really mess with my ocd ?

The passenger side is a tighter fit for seats. I am not sure if the 2nd gen doghouse/rad setup cures this? Your header options are going to be controlled by your transmission choice and what linkages are going to be effected. To gain room for the passenger side seat may involve major surgery and/or relocation/lowering of radiator and lowering the engine if it's going to bother you that much. It can be done but is not a common path. Keep in mind , if you change one thing from stock it is usually going to effect at least 3 more things ahead of you. It's still fun tho.

My recipe for a v8 in a 1st gen uses 2nd gen v8 parts for a clean, factory style install.  Find a 2nd gen v8 parts van and use the following:

2nd gen v8 doghouse & floor tunnel with 2nd gen lid.  Cut the DH vertically just aft of the radiator so the aft portion is removable, for easier access to the engine.  Weld the floor tunnel and front of the DH to the van.  Cut out the floor as required.  You will need to fabricate two areas of additional metal in the floor on either sides of the rear of the DH to make the 1st gen floor fit the contour of the 2nd gen DH.  

Use all these factory pieces: upper and lower radiator brackets, crossflow radiator, overflow tank, and upper tube (pipe).  2nd gen e-brake bracket & pulley (cut this off the frame).  You need this to re-route the e-brake cable around the radiator!

For throttle linkage, use the factory 2nd gen stuff, if you can find it.  Or run a morse style cable.  

For exhaust, use the factory 2nd gen ram horn manifolds with the original low-mount alternator bracket…  if you cannot find those, use block hugger headers with aftermarket low-mount alternator bracket.

Passenger seat is narrower that driver's seat on both 1st gen and 2nd gen.  passenger side is limited to about 19" width.  If you do not have original seats, look for seats from a corvette or a fiero.  Those are narrow and will fit ok, with some fabrication.

For fan, use the factory 2nd gen shroud with a mechanical fan.

You may need to modify the 1st gen belly pan to make it fit the 2nd gen lower radiator support.

Just so there is no confusion I do have a V8 in mine and I have done none of that ^. Like I said "another path".

That's simply my standard "recipe" using factory parts. Other people have other 'recipes'. I've done two 1st gen v8 swaps like this so far, and I'll tell you having the factory 2nd gen v8 stuff makes it easier to put together. If you have access to a v8 2nd gen parts van, thats the easiest way to go I think. I snap up the 2nd gen v8 conversion parts wherever I can find em. Always comes in handy.

Of course you can fabricate your own stuff from scratch if you want… all depends on how you want to build your van.

Even with 2nd gen v8 stuff available, the v8 install does require considerable work and fabrication.

I've also seen a v8 conversion done with a doghouse sourced from a dodge a100, that can be another option.

I am not recommending anyone go my route, it's difficult without resources. The 2nd gen type conversion is the cleanest look. But by doing what I did I feel it gave me a good perspective on what really needs to be done or brought over from the 2nd gen depending on whats available to the builder.
Chopper mentioned keeping the seats centered. I managed to install mine with clearance between the door post and the seat and keep a 22"wide seat. Took 2 tries tho. LOL
Long tube headers ? No problem ! Probably have to go to an automatic trans to get rid of some linkage though. They also appear to be low but they are even with the bottom of the pan just more visible.
By changing up a couple things you can get by with an aftermarket Rad that runs about 140$ , it will probably require an electric fan set up(75$) cheap side. but you can ditch the big fill tank and go in-line at the engine height.
Yours is a perfect guide line Joe if there are parts available to do it. I did not have that when I started mine. If they really wanted a van "Built by EBAY" they should have seen mine ,LOL
Lots of options on all of it. Just have to figure out what you want to end up with . The more comfy and easy it is to drive the more you will want to actually drive it.
Man I hope spring gets here soon !!

heck yeah spring! im sick of snow this year.
''wow'' ,lots of info!!
Im a custom guy at heart so I will make as much as possible on the v-8 swap.
my big problem is father time likes to kick my ass alote. so things happen slowly for me which means two things ,one-is I take my time and it turns out really nice or two -I get in a hurry and just make it happin so I can drive it and latter change things that I don't like or don't work the way I like.
Anyways , I'm lookin at a 305 chevy and keepin the standard 3 on the tree. with block huggers and side pipes and I like building tranny crossmembers but the factoy tail shaft mount is pretty cool though.
I like a gas cable if I can figure how to make such a long one? and what kind of gas pedal are you guys runnin? lokar stuff is nice but usually not for me?
is the mechanical fuel pump easy to change once the v-8 is installed?[room wise anyways]
can I use a long water pump,and top mount altenator brackets?
has anyone tried using a 1950 chevy truck aluminum radiator?looks like it should be about right fit.
guys,man thanks for all the good solide info I really do appreciate it!!

This is the location on my 350 of the pump. I should think it would be easy to get to from below.

Long WP should be ok. will probably have to keep the downflow radiator if keeping the 3 spd stick because of driverside linkage. Keeping things high and tight and somewhat stock in the Doghouse will mean having to work with what space you have for seating. You should have room for the Alt in front of the right head. All totally doable. just be prepared to maybe have to work with the cooling system set up. There are several good set ups for throttle cables. Lately I have been liking the looks of a bell crank system that a couple of the guys have made that works right under the stock pedal and changes the direction of the pull.

Chopper I'm running the stock gas pedal with a push/pull cable from Jegs. The cable is about 6 foot, had to fab a couple of mounts to hold it in place. Comes up from the front of the engine and works great. Click on the pic's for full view.

That looks GOOD wideload pushes instead of pulling I may just go that route.... for now I have the stock long bar linkage with 2 ft of cable at the carb end.... I am the KING of OCD and have noticed all Chevy Vans are that way (motor offset) I ran into that when I swapped a 350 for a 454 in my 75 Chevy van they all sit off set because of the rear end (less foot room on the right side).. a first gen box will work with block hugger headers or stock manifold's but make it easy to remove it because there is no room to work on it the engine... Second Gen box is the way to go and they do pop up once in a while for sale just do it and when you run into a problem just ask and one of us will solve it we all went through a bunch of issues at one time or another ....Here is my 66 GMC with a 68 307 in a 68 motor box easer to mount the seats and gets way better air flow and fairly easy to work on.....                                                                                                                                    .                                                                                                                                                                                               The cross-member is a universal one from Speed Way Motor's.....

Thats a nice clean looking engine JoeVan.  Notice the use of Long Water pump and pass. side mounted alternator.  It fits just fine.  

At the back of the doghouse, thats a good example of where you have to fabricate additional metal to fill areas left in the 1st gen floor by the 2nd gen doghouse swap.

I've found 2nd gen vans in junkyards, and also guys are parting them out…  if you put the word out here.


As far as a throttle cable, simply measure where you want to route the cable and then buy whatever length you need in a marine or 'morse' style cable. You can get them any length you want from a boat supply and they are not that expensive. Boats use these cables of all lengths for the controls, and they are readily available. You just have to fabricate some brackets to hold the ends. Stick with the factory gas pedal, and just adapt it to the morse cable.

Thanks kookykrispy.!!!.  I made some paper templates first and used a old metal shelf for the steel.  .

Wowy wow !information overload?
man you guys are with it today! Makes me wonna get started on it right now.
never thought of pussing the throttle instead of pulling it ,cool idea!
Boat cables ,now that's thinking outside the box.I like it!

THANK YOU GUYS ALOTE FOR THE INTHUSEASUM AND SUPPORT ,I;LL PAY IT FORWARD WHEN I CAN!

.

[img][/img]My 65 had a 350 with a powerglide in it when i bought it.I just got a replacment throtle cable.I got a 108 inch universal lokar cable from sumit.I belive i need abought 97 inches.Heres a pic of how my dog house was knoked out for the v8.

[img][/img]v8 with tube headers.

I'm in the same boat I put a 350 in my 65 g-10 and its been a learn as I go project.
I did a chop job on the floor for the headers and put a th350 just working on drive shaft and crossmember. The dog house is the only problem I am going to run into. I like the 2nd gen ideal. I have seen pictures or video yet

Easiest throttle linkage is to have the stock pedal lever PUSH a 33c morse style marine throttle cable.... Hardware for these cables includes quick-disconnect cable housing mounts and cool swivel ends. These cables are designed to be pushed and also to live a long life in a marine environment without developing corrosion or binds. you can order them in any length you'd ever need! While they ARE heavier and more heavy duty than a B&M shifter cable, I'd use a 43c cable to retrofit a broken shifter cable....
Remember that if you come up over the back of the engine, the cable will be pushing, so you'll want it to attach to the throttle arm of the carb BELOW the throttle shaft...
I found that when I took the 350 retrofit stuff from a 69 van for my 66, that the shift linkage on the 69  used a modified clutch bellcrank with a solid rod linkage.....At first, I just put a hurst handle through the floor to hook up with this linkage rod. but eventually built a full new doghouse and console with a cable shifter mounted on top. I really wish I'd taken pictures of this stuff! I have some of these cables and hardware on my boat so I'll get some pics and post up...

I never considered removing the box in one piece by drilling the spotwelds... How did you manage to get through that nasty permanent sealer?

Don I REALLY like the Idea of the Marine Cable and Pushing instead of Pulling... I am going to go that Route.!!!. It would be much easer at the pedal end with the stock pedal than trying to fabricate a swing arm there..Could you "Please" tell me How long was the cable you used from the pedal around the back of the V8 to the "bottom" of the carb linkage? I am almost ready to convert mine I only have about 1/2 throttle now...Thanks...Joe..