new engine

Man, doesn't that just make me all warm and fuzzy! Very NICE  

Digz wrote:White shag ?? That's a lot of effort but it sure pays off in the end. I see you haven't exceeded the load capacity of that card table yet either. have fun with it.

LMAO

dodge man wrote:

What I wouldn't give to win the lotto lol

dodge man wrote:

Sweet, what size engine? 360?

Looks good John, might have to pull the headers off to get it in there, but don't know. is your timing marks on the passenger side ??? i've seen them on either side, don't understand that  tho.

stock 318, this thing will only let me up load one picture at a time, yeah i have it just about readdy to go in, have to make a new rod for the gas linkage the original one is to long, i can make one after i get the engine in, also installed the point less ignition,

yeah dix its on the passenger side, you can see the black timming marker on there, and theres one on the timming cover also just behind it, go figure

i asked my wife if it would go back in with the headers on, she scratched her head and said it would be easer with them off, shes prity smart, lol

we had this disscusion on here before it has to be a high performance engine to be a crate engine, this is a stock 318 but came in a crate,

Crate engines =usually a term used for any actual "factory" engine!! because any rebuilder can put any engine in a "Crate" for shipping & storage-therefore = what "Dodgeman" is referring to i believe is an actual factory "crate engine" and that the Factory (chrysler) does not offer any engines that are not!=Hi perf engines =anylonger. any rebiolder can build any engine to any specification also -remember the rebuilder wants to make as much "profit" it can on any engine=so what were the quality of each part used in the rebuild?? re-man rods or new?/ ect=??cast rings or moly type? Cast pistons v/s forged ?/ Many factors- yet a factory "Crate" is to a specific factory specification & builds for a specific application ie- horsepower & torque figures!

Timing marks
69 and earlier, passenger side, with a WP that connects to driver side lower radiator outlet.
70-up timing marks on driver side, WP gets fed from passenger side radiator outlet.
NOTE that this is cars. The D series trucks and A vans probably still had driver side WP.
I have heard that in 69 they had a bolt on timing tab. to replace the cover molded one.
I would suggest that you confirm timing marks before install, just to make sure! It's a LOT easier out of the van!

Here's a video. I didn't watch it all, I skipped thru but it seemed good.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PD0ZRc7Dy28

Note that a Ford #1 is the passenger side front, the Dodge is front driver side.

mine is a 68, in the one picture you can see the black timming digrees on a bolt on plate, right behind it theres one made into the timming cover, it looks like you would use that one if you had a bigger dampner,

John what is the date on the new engine ??? did it come with the timing chain cover installed ???

it was rebuilt last month, thats on the birth certificate, they give you a run sheet with oil presure, and cylinder compression, and i had to use my cover, the timing marks i use are on the plate thats bolts to the two lower water pump bolts,

i bought 3 sets of headers before i found a set that fits high under the van so you cant see them, the headman # is G9042 if anyone needs a set, i dont know if this would work on a standard trany, summit sells a unaversal exhaust kit that will work nice, i'll use 2 muflers and tail pipes going out in front of the rear tires on each side

question, what is the pink wire that goes from the 6 volt side of the balast resistor to the number 12 pin on the ignition switch for ?? i'm removing my resistor since i have a pertronix insted of points now and just wandered what the wire was for, i called there help line to ask if i could add my choke wire to the plus side of the coil, he said he doesnt recomend it but if theres no other 12 volt wires to hook my choke wire to it should be ok, has anyone used the plus side of the coil to feed the choke ? i was thinking if i have to i could use the pink wire to opperate the choke just remove it from the number 12 pine on the ignition switch and atach it to the hot side that has 12 volts when the key is on, any help would be appreciated, john

one side goes to the ignition. go to the bottom of the link posted.   http://www.mopar1.us/charge.html

OK, i'll wait till i get the engine in and see if its charging or not, i still dont see why you would need 6 volts going back to the ignition switch, its connected to the wire that goes to the plus side of the coil, thanks for the diogram, i may need to use it again, or just install a volt gauge and do away with the amp gauge, thanks dix, john

That wire was a resistor bypass.While your cranking 12V goes to coil after it starts and the key is released to run position the voltage goes back to 6V.

ok, so since i went with a 12 volt pertronix i dont need to hook that pink wire to anything ? and can i also use the plus side of the coil for my electric choke now, since the resistor is gone?