All Systems STOPPED...

The PINK wire is a 12 gauge wire that goes to the ignition switch. Mine recently had a short, so I pulled a fuse from the fuse box and the short went away. Now I have to find out what circuit that fuse belongs to. The words on my fuse box are almost worn off. You're not the only one with a wiring harness that has some issues.
Scott - what year is your van? Mine is a '69 (built Nov. '68) that has 2 wires in the factory harness that don't show up in any book or schematic on this site. They are coming out from the dash and go down along the doghouse. They were cut at one time and I have no idea of where they originally went. Both are brown 18 or 20 guage and one has a white tracer on it. I guess all our vans have a mystery to them.

KC, below is the fuse panel with the labels. You can view the entire wiring diagram by clicking here and then click on the picture to open it in a window by itself and then you can click on it again to see it full size and you'll probally have to scroll around to view it.
The pink wire is fed at the ignition switch in the run position and it feeds the coil in the doghouse and it also has a splice that feeds the (only one on the circiut) fuse for the instrument panel cluster lights and the 2 ignition unfused taps beside it.
The brown wires coming from the dash are spliced in the harness going to the doghouse where it connects to the voltage regulator, the 24 gauge with the white stripe goes to the ignition switch and the 16 gauge goes to the generator light in the dash (where it is mislabeled a 20 gauge). They may have been cut if you no longer have a voltage regulator and/or have a 1 wire alternator.

Donivan - I was checking my 12 gauge pink with a continuity tester and it looked like my battery had a slow drain on it. I ended up pulling the fuse for "cluster feed" - Thanks Viewmaster for the photo post. I now have no cluster lights until I find the reason for the drain. I need to make a new harness for under the dash. Everything from the doghouse entrance to the rear doors has been replaced with a scratch-built harness.
Scott - my advice is to replace each circuit completely instead of patching it and leaving anything old for a future date.

Like you I am replacing the patch jobs with entire circuits. My biggest hang-up is finding the right gauges in the right colors.

I doubt that going with a thicker gauge will decrease the resistance much if at all. There is no "Load" being placed on it that would cause the 18 gauge to heat up and create more resistance. There is less than a 4 ohm difference over 1000 feet of wire (6.385 for 18 gauge, 10.15 for 20 guage)
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

FYI to the Dodge guys - Our Dodges have a stainless steel resistance wire in there somewhere for the factory temperature gauge to function correctly.

Glad to hear you got it stared. I think the NSS is only a van thing?? So might be hard to find?? I found one on a van in the JY for the 68 with the PG

That's great news! I'm going to try that on my brother's Fargo A100!

You know what? My brother and I pulled a P/N switch at the boneyard, and tried to crank the Fargo using the jumper to ground from the relay connection first... it moved about 15 degrees! Success! Thanks for the idea!

When I pulled the switch from the tranny in the Fargo, it was seized. No wonder it was always open and current couldn't flow. So we'll be good to go with that too! Hopefully I'll finish stripping my Ford and get it picked up in the next month, then my brother and I can drive the Fargo the six blocks over to my garage for the winter resto!!!

Thanks again for the tip!

Sounds like your float might be stuck??

Rebuild kit should run $25-40. Can of carb cleaner, goggles, gloves, butcher paper, and a razor blade should put it right. Should be simple and easy to rebuild, just take your time and be careful.

This is more great news... I think that is also a step we need to take with the Fargo! No "first fire" this weekend... squirted some oil around the piston rings through the spark plug holes, also dripped some oil down the pushrods. Haven't looked at the carb as a problem at all so far, but I'm sure it's crusty like the rest of this engine!

Good job Scott! I'm glad I'm not the only one walking this path right now!