by Scott Mon May 24, 2010 8:46 amGood info, I'll be reading that a few times before I fire it up..
Guess that means the exhaust should be put in before I try to start it up.
Guess that means the exhaust should be put in before I try to start it up.
+13
Digz
Nightmoves
RodStRace
savage
itruns
Kakster
ViewMaster
BvrWally
m1dadio
donivan65
mo_1040
sasktrini
Scott
17 posters
All Systems STOPPED...
Scott- Number of posts : 1651
Location : Anoka, MN
Age : 54
Registration date : 2008-05-20
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
Valve adjustment is one of the things that can set you back on a new engine,,,,,and the lifters are the cause,,,,,,,it's nice if they are all pumped up and then you adjust each one by having each cylinder at TDC, loosening each rocker until you can spin the pushrod with your fingers, tighten the rocker until you cant turn the pushrod,,,,then do another turn down,,,,so that should get you in the ballpark,,,,,,do the rest the same way. I am just saying this so you don't panic if the compression is erratic AND if it won't start after it is in. Those valves need to open and close at the right time for the right time,,,and until those lifters are ready to work, you can't adjust anything, it backfires,,,,,it fouls the plugs,,,,,you run the battery down and you probably go blaming the distributor for the problem,,,,,,,,
Scott- Number of posts : 1651
Location : Anoka, MN
Age : 54
Registration date : 2008-05-20
Alright, just finished my compression test, now I see your post on adjusting rockers. Wish I had looked before hitting the garage tonight. I'll adjust them and try again tomorrow.
Here is what I got tonight..
CYL 1 = 150
CYL 2 = 130
CYL 3 = 152
CYL 4 = 130
CYL 5 = 150
CYL 6 = 150
Here is what I got tonight..
CYL 1 = 150
CYL 2 = 130
CYL 3 = 152
CYL 4 = 130
CYL 5 = 150
CYL 6 = 150
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
Like on those low ones,,,,back off a half turn, 1 valve at a time, run the test,,,,,,if it does not raise the compression reading, turn it back,,,,,you are ready to put it in and it has a good chance of working right,,,,,,,
Scott- Number of posts : 1651
Location : Anoka, MN
Age : 54
Registration date : 2008-05-20
Yesterday the new engine made it into it's new home. It was about 98 degrees outside, so you can say I was pretty wiped-out by the time it landed.
First step was to cut and drill the drop blocks for the engine cradle, that went alot smoother then I thought it would.
Then the front passenger wheel came off to make room for the engine hoist to roll under, and anything I could to shorten the hoist chain.
After about an hour of shuffling the thing around I got all the mount bolts to line-up, then rested the back of the block on an engine stand.
Once it was set I just turned out the light and shut the door, that was all I could take for one day.
But I still had time to grill some burgers and dogs with the family.
First step was to cut and drill the drop blocks for the engine cradle, that went alot smoother then I thought it would.
Then the front passenger wheel came off to make room for the engine hoist to roll under, and anything I could to shorten the hoist chain.
After about an hour of shuffling the thing around I got all the mount bolts to line-up, then rested the back of the block on an engine stand.
Once it was set I just turned out the light and shut the door, that was all I could take for one day.
But I still had time to grill some burgers and dogs with the family.
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
,,,,,so it was a Memorable day,,,,,,
Nightmoves- Number of posts : 2214
Location : Old Hickory Tenn.
Age : 64
Registration date : 2008-11-17
WoW and Congratulations Scott ! Nuthin like a shiny fresh motor goin in.Ya got some buttoning up to do yet,but I'm sure your glad its in.Glad for ya.Go have a burger.
Scott- Number of posts : 1651
Location : Anoka, MN
Age : 54
Registration date : 2008-05-20
Getting the transmission ready to go in now..
My first round at replacing the shaft seal at the pump was comical. Couldn’t get that thing to tap into place, even placed a long pipe about the right size on it and hit it. When it finally got on there my wife was right there pointing out where I dented it. I said something to Donivan and he told me to just drill a hole into a 4x4 and use that to install the next seal. It took a 1.5” hole to fit around the shaft, but it took all of two pops with a 5 pound hammer to pop it into place. I spun the transmission around and popped the rear one in just as easy. Now I’m down to the side seals, selector shaft, where the speedometer cable connects, and where the harness plugs into the side.
Do I need to worry about the seal to the four-wire plug on the side of a 200-4R? (See the blue arrow)
How easy is it to replace the selector shaft seal?
Any mods I should consider before bolting this thing to the engine?
What's this thing next to the red arrow? It looks like a hole with a metal pin pushed through it, but the pin is sticking out the side.
Hey Donivan, thanks again for the tip. I’m passing that 4x4 along with the PowerGlide to G-Force.
My first round at replacing the shaft seal at the pump was comical. Couldn’t get that thing to tap into place, even placed a long pipe about the right size on it and hit it. When it finally got on there my wife was right there pointing out where I dented it. I said something to Donivan and he told me to just drill a hole into a 4x4 and use that to install the next seal. It took a 1.5” hole to fit around the shaft, but it took all of two pops with a 5 pound hammer to pop it into place. I spun the transmission around and popped the rear one in just as easy. Now I’m down to the side seals, selector shaft, where the speedometer cable connects, and where the harness plugs into the side.
Do I need to worry about the seal to the four-wire plug on the side of a 200-4R? (See the blue arrow)
How easy is it to replace the selector shaft seal?
Any mods I should consider before bolting this thing to the engine?
What's this thing next to the red arrow? It looks like a hole with a metal pin pushed through it, but the pin is sticking out the side.
Hey Donivan, thanks again for the tip. I’m passing that 4x4 along with the PowerGlide to G-Force.
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
To do the selector shaft, you probably have to drop the pan and undo the parking pawl to let the shaft slide out to replace the seal,,,,,,,is that the case vent by your red arrow? As for mounting the trans,,,,,,,just make sure the Torque Converter is ALL the way in before tightening the bolts up,,,,,,and all the way means it never touches the flex plate while installing the trans,,,,,it then has to be slid forward to bolt it to the flex plate,,,,,if it does not turn out this way then it AINT in all the way,,,,,keep spinning it until it goes ALL the way back,,,,,,,
Scott- Number of posts : 1651
Location : Anoka, MN
Age : 54
Registration date : 2008-05-20
I see were the two notches in the Torque Converter fit into the pump, I should be good there.
As far as the case vent, I'm not sure if thats it or not, but there is a two or three inch plastic tube exiting on the top center near the back of the bell housing. I think the hole by the red arrow is a dead end. I'll get a better picture tomorrow, and push something up in there to see if it hits a wall.
So, is the Parking Pawl just a matter of unhooking a clip, sliding out the Selector Shaft, then reversing the process to put it back together? I guess each transmission is a little different, but generally is that the deal?
Where the speedometer cable connects there is a rubber seal inside the little bullet looking thing that it attaches too. What's that thing called so know what to ask for when buying the seal. It also has an rubber ring seal on the outside of it too.
As far as the case vent, I'm not sure if thats it or not, but there is a two or three inch plastic tube exiting on the top center near the back of the bell housing. I think the hole by the red arrow is a dead end. I'll get a better picture tomorrow, and push something up in there to see if it hits a wall.
So, is the Parking Pawl just a matter of unhooking a clip, sliding out the Selector Shaft, then reversing the process to put it back together? I guess each transmission is a little different, but generally is that the deal?
Where the speedometer cable connects there is a rubber seal inside the little bullet looking thing that it attaches too. What's that thing called so know what to ask for when buying the seal. It also has an rubber ring seal on the outside of it too.
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
You have to do what you got to to get the seal out,,,,,and usually it is to unhook the shaft and pull it out to allow you access the seal. Did you already change the filter and pan gasket , Scott?????
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog_inc/viewitem.php?ITEMID=307
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog_inc/viewitem.php?ITEMID=307
Scott- Number of posts : 1651
Location : Anoka, MN
Age : 54
Registration date : 2008-05-20
Thanks for the link, that should help..
Have not replaced the filter or pan gasket yet, figured I would do that last.
Have not replaced the filter or pan gasket yet, figured I would do that last.
Scott- Number of posts : 1651
Location : Anoka, MN
Age : 54
Registration date : 2008-05-20
Finally got that transmission bolted in today, the bell housing anyway.
I was trying to rig my jack to raise that thing, but figured out that it wasn't going to happen that way. I could wrestle the thing up on the board that was bolted to my jack, but getting the Torque Converter on knocked it off once, the second time it slid off while getting the jack in position. That's when I decided I needed a new plan.
This worked really slick so I need to share..
The 200-4R I put in has a universal bell housing on it which is why this worked so well. Using the two holes at the top of the bell I bolted a chain to it. In the back I put the rubber transmission mount on, which gives it a center bolt sticking out the bottom. Then I pulled the chain from the bell housing up through the doghouse and attached it to my engine hoist. I raised it up about six inches, then set that rubber transmission mount bolt into my floor jack. and leveled off the transmission. Just had to make sure it was either level or tilting back so I didn't drop the torque converter. Then I used the engine hoist to raise it the rest of the way, then leveled it with the floor jack again. It just slid right on to the guide pins.
I don't have anyone around that can help so I have to figure out how to do most of this on my own.
Sure am glad I dropped that engine an 1" for the extra transmission space, I was getting lazy and starting to convince myself I wouldn't need it.
Sorry, no pics, greasy hands and digital cameras don't go well together.
I was trying to rig my jack to raise that thing, but figured out that it wasn't going to happen that way. I could wrestle the thing up on the board that was bolted to my jack, but getting the Torque Converter on knocked it off once, the second time it slid off while getting the jack in position. That's when I decided I needed a new plan.
This worked really slick so I need to share..
The 200-4R I put in has a universal bell housing on it which is why this worked so well. Using the two holes at the top of the bell I bolted a chain to it. In the back I put the rubber transmission mount on, which gives it a center bolt sticking out the bottom. Then I pulled the chain from the bell housing up through the doghouse and attached it to my engine hoist. I raised it up about six inches, then set that rubber transmission mount bolt into my floor jack. and leveled off the transmission. Just had to make sure it was either level or tilting back so I didn't drop the torque converter. Then I used the engine hoist to raise it the rest of the way, then leveled it with the floor jack again. It just slid right on to the guide pins.
I don't have anyone around that can help so I have to figure out how to do most of this on my own.
Sure am glad I dropped that engine an 1" for the extra transmission space, I was getting lazy and starting to convince myself I wouldn't need it.
Sorry, no pics, greasy hands and digital cameras don't go well together.
Digz- Number of posts : 3794
Location : United States Six Lakes MI
Registration date : 2008-05-17
Thats almost word for word on how I handled the 700R by myself ! Ya sure know ya did something at the end of the day.
m1dadio- Chevy Guru
- Number of posts : 1778
Location : north saanich
Registration date : 2008-10-06
All right: its said nacessity is the mother of invention, and you know it first hand!
Thats a cool story
Thanks
m1d
Thats a cool story
Thanks
m1d
Nightmoves- Number of posts : 2214
Location : Old Hickory Tenn.
Age : 64
Registration date : 2008-11-17
Thats definitely a This is how its done topic .Good job Scott.Glad trans is in.
Analyze,improvise,adapt,and overcome.
Analyze,improvise,adapt,and overcome.
Scott- Number of posts : 1651
Location : Anoka, MN
Age : 54
Registration date : 2008-05-20
What's more important, level the engine or the carb? I'm sure it's engine, but I'm running out of room to lift the transmission.
Right now the rear of the van is set a little higher because of the high sidewall, when those tires need replacing I am going to match them to the front sizes. So right now I am going to lift the front of the van until the van is level, then level the engine from there, which means I will have to lift the transmission even higher for the engine to be level. Looking at the Offey intake it looks like it was cast to sit at an angle so I'm guessing it's suppose to be that way, or maybe they are compensating for an engine angle?
If I try to level the engine by putting the level on the valve cover, or the top lip of the head, then the transmission is going to bump the bottom of the van before the bubble hits the center. I dropped the engine by an inch already, do I need to keep dropping the engine until its level?
Right now the rear of the van is set a little higher because of the high sidewall, when those tires need replacing I am going to match them to the front sizes. So right now I am going to lift the front of the van until the van is level, then level the engine from there, which means I will have to lift the transmission even higher for the engine to be level. Looking at the Offey intake it looks like it was cast to sit at an angle so I'm guessing it's suppose to be that way, or maybe they are compensating for an engine angle?
If I try to level the engine by putting the level on the valve cover, or the top lip of the head, then the transmission is going to bump the bottom of the van before the bubble hits the center. I dropped the engine by an inch already, do I need to keep dropping the engine until its level?
Digz- Number of posts : 3794
Location : United States Six Lakes MI
Registration date : 2008-05-17
Scott, I went thru the same thing ,I know mines an 8, but I went with a more level trans pan at the stance I wanted, that engine angle will land where it lands, the intakes are made to compensate some but I couldnt get it all either, it will effect the float levelsi n the carb some but those are adjustable if its a slight problem, I have had none . With that carb and the floats sideways to normal it may make less of a difference anyway. What size carb is that?
Scott- Number of posts : 1651
Location : Anoka, MN
Age : 54
Registration date : 2008-05-20
The carb is an Edelbrock 1405 / 600 CFM
It's kind of hard to see in this picture but at the top of this picture / back of the engine you can see the intake is a little higher and drops a little before bolting to the head, where in the bottom of this picture, or the front of the engine, the intake is a little lower so it has to come up a little before bolting to the head. In other words, its slanted forward.
Looking at the engine it looks like its slanted quite a bit, but I'm not sure what reference point to use to describe the degrees it's off. I'm thinking that a little off is OK, it shouldnt be any different then driving up or down a mountain... Right?
It's kind of hard to see in this picture but at the top of this picture / back of the engine you can see the intake is a little higher and drops a little before bolting to the head, where in the bottom of this picture, or the front of the engine, the intake is a little lower so it has to come up a little before bolting to the head. In other words, its slanted forward.
Looking at the engine it looks like its slanted quite a bit, but I'm not sure what reference point to use to describe the degrees it's off. I'm thinking that a little off is OK, it shouldnt be any different then driving up or down a mountain... Right?
Guest- Guest
idealy you would want the front alittle higher. a 600 is alittle big for a stock 230/250 but you can jet them down and it will work fine, if you turn the carb around you should be able to modify the stock linkage to work. hedders would proly help but the stock manifold flows ok. i have a set of used chrome hedders just need to worry about intake heat, i know you live in texas but ive seen carb plates ice up on 100 degree days.
Scott- Number of posts : 1651
Location : Anoka, MN
Age : 54
Registration date : 2008-05-20
The engine is a 250 that has an extensively ported and polished head with 1.82 & 1.60 valves. It's a 194 high compression head, and the Offy intake is port matched with a 600 Edelbrock. The exhaust manifold is an International Harvester combine exhaust manifold, basically a cast iron header with a 2 1/2" dump. All this is bolted to a .060 250 six w/less than 20k miles on it. I figure around 250-260 hp. and about 290ft/lbs of torque.
When taking the pictures last night I noticed the carb is on backwards, but its really just sitting there at the moment. Looking at pictures on the van site it looks like the L6 usually sits back a little, so I’m going to hit it tonight with the level on the bottom of the transmission pan.
Tell me more about carb plates icing up..?
Scott- Number of posts : 1651
Location : Anoka, MN
Age : 54
Registration date : 2008-05-20
Finally got that rear 200-4r Transmission Mount bolted to the frame.
I ended up buying a TransDapt mount with a 6" drop, two 6" x 8" steel plates, and a hand full of 3/8" bolts.
I ended up buying a TransDapt mount with a 6" drop, two 6" x 8" steel plates, and a hand full of 3/8" bolts.
Nightmoves- Number of posts : 2214
Location : Old Hickory Tenn.
Age : 64
Registration date : 2008-11-17
Scott,that looks like a pro did it.lol Good job.I take it you got the height/level you wanted.
Scott- Number of posts : 1651
Location : Anoka, MN
Age : 54
Registration date : 2008-05-20
I ended up leveling the top of the carb, the transmission pan is tilted forward a little, but I don't think its enough to be a problem. The Trans-Dapt pivoted back and forth in those end caps, I lost the directions so I don't know if I was suppose to weld those caps after it was installed. When I first set it in there the bar tilted forward and put a lot of strain on rear rubber transmission mount. So I drilled and threaded holes through the end caps and bar to hold it at the angle I wanted. A weld would have been nice, but this should hold just as good.
Trans-Dapt also makes an 8" drop bracket that might have worked too. When I measured I thought some of the mounting bolts for the end caps would be to close to the bottom of the frame to drill, and the bottom ones would be hanging out anyway, so I opted for just the 6" drop and longer side plates.
Trans-Dapt also makes an 8" drop bracket that might have worked too. When I measured I thought some of the mounting bolts for the end caps would be to close to the bottom of the frame to drill, and the bottom ones would be hanging out anyway, so I opted for just the 6" drop and longer side plates.
Scott- Number of posts : 1651
Location : Anoka, MN
Age : 54
Registration date : 2008-05-20
I picked up a three wire alternator today but don't remember how to covert from the external regulator.
Can someone please explain how to reroute the wires that used to plug into the voltage regulator?
Can someone please explain how to reroute the wires that used to plug into the voltage regulator?
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