disc brake conversion kits????????????? expert opinions?

At the moment I am not running anything but the 10lb to the rear. I will try to instal the 2lb Monday, I read in 2-3 places and Have a friend with a 65 that only used residual valves - no proprtioning valves -with good luck or so they say//?? I will then try to use a pressure bleeder rather than the suction type we had used?
They work..the pedal is half way it really doesnt pump up or get better with mor epumping. It isnt very firm. It takes some effort to stop.they seem to lock up without pulling. but at this point my drums were better. I also have Cragar SS rims and they are 1/16 away from the caliper..maybe I should shave it a little?


The vet master is desired because of its lower reseviour high and the fact that the lines come off the correct side. Other then that there is nothing special about it, you could use any double master with the correct boar size.

wdaguy: what are you using for a proportioning valve?
M1D[/quote]

Well...I finally got back to my Rear Disc Project this weekend! I had so many holes in the original brackets, they looked like they came from a "Bonnie & Clyde" car! lol KC here in P-Town Mig'd them shut for me, so to have a "Clear Canvas" to re-clock them!

I remarked them and drilled them once again and finally was able to mount them yesterday! It is very important to double check your install, so as to keep everything in the clear, in regards to the springs and spring perches! You have to be able to remove the caliper bolts, when you change pads! I "Re-Clocked" everything to @ 8:30 in order for MY application! Each will be somewhat different! I will attach the e-brake cable at a later date, but it is positioned OK! I still have to fab a spacer to take up the slack, as the cable is @ 2 1/2 "s too long now. No big deal...as I have not used the e-brake for 30 years anyways!! lol
For some reason, the driver's side rotor wanted to hit the bracket? I ground a small amount off of the bracket and everything was fine once again!

Previously, the Cragars hit the caliper by maybe 1/16 th"....I bought spacers from CPP that were 5/16th and moved the mags outward as much. Now everything clears fine!

I also obtained stainless lines from CPP for @ $60 and installed them today as well.

Finally wheels back on!!!

Now all I have to do is add fluid to the differential, add the 2# residual valve to the rear line and bleed the brake system once again! I'm getting close now! I would have had this all together weeks ago, but my new job is taking up all of my time! This weekend...was some much needed "Garage Therapy" though!!! lol
B.W.

I had the same problem; one of my rear caliper bolts just didn't clear the leaf springs. But it almost did on an angle just the end of it was connecting with the leaf spring so I helped it past with a hammer. I will have to cut it to get the caliper off now. Or gring the leaf spring a bit.

wdaguy I agree with donivan65. your disc brakes should be way better then the drums. Getting a pedal about half way is almost right but it sounds like you have some mechanical problem. Those rear brakes should be locking up on you as well, but that depends on tire sizes and tire presure and rear wieght and so on. What size is the bore in your master cylinder?

I have my adjustable proportioning valve turned right to the least rear braking as posible and I still get premature rear lock up. Partly because the rears are disc. But let me tell you about my front discs. I have high suspention. at 40 or 50mph I can pound on the brakes, the front suspention dipps right down, a friend said it looked like I lifted the rear tires clean off the road, I ended up with a bruise on my collar bone from the shoulder strap. I didn't feel it at the time but it showed up the next day. I have never been able to lock up the fronts and I think thats due to the wieght transfer.

My brakes did pull at first, a wheel alignment fixed that problem.

M1D

Have we decided whether or not you "need" residual valves if the MC is going to be above the calipers all the time.? Running the rest of the lines is the next step on my install. BW ,that looks nice , I had to compare your clocking to mine ,, I see the kit sets it up so the top caliper bolt goes above the leaf spring, but if I ever put a lift block in I would be in trouble on clearance.

Think I'll try it without them , can always change if needed.

With the "New" orientation of the Cadillac Back Brackets...the calipers "Clear" all suspension items! The removal of the caliper bolts, should I need to change brake pads, will now NOT be an issue! lol

I did have to grind a small amount off of the Driver's Side bracket, as it was binding up when I tightened things up. Thankfully...my "Trusty" grinder was at hand! lol

Hopefully I will give a "Road Test" report this Holiday weekend????
B.W.

Looks good BW. Glad you got it figured out.

Thanks Dan...You and me both! lol
B.W.

Ok installed the blue valve to front discs, Used a 'bug spray" bleeder to do the whole system. improved.
backs really lock up easy
I only have about 3 -3.5 inches of pedal when first applied??
Would this (pedal heighth) improve if I did the rears in disc too ?
Do you see any reason for me to add the proportioning valve? At this time?
I have been hitting them hard with no pulling, but empty van with 15x10 in the rear skidding..good thing there isnt any Black Ice in Tucson!!

WDAguy....I will let you know about the pedal height, when I get my system bled. Currently behind schedule on this project. The proportioning valve is necessary to prevent locking up the rear brakes. They all have to work together as a system.
B.W.

wdaguy: please explain what 3 to 3.5 means?
From the floor?

what is the pedal hight when just sitting static?

The measurement I look at is how far the pedal travels from static to applied.

I will measure mine and let you know but disc vs drum makes no difference if the drums are adjusted properly.

yes you need a proportioning valve. If you have to do an emergency stop in a corner you will loose it if the rear locks especialy on a wet road.

Let the rear tire presure down to about 22 psi or something like that. If you have 50's on the back with no load you could probobly get away with as low as 15 psi .

M1D

I am saying I have about 4 inches length in the pedal with my foot just beginng to add pressure.
So it goes down about 2- 2.5 inches before pressure. Is that acceptable?

Well of the top that sounds good to me. I will have a look at mine today. and I will look at my regular vehicle too. Take a look at other regular drivers to get an idea.

If you get a pedal at about 2" travel and I am guessing your pedal is probobly then about 4" from the floor I would say you are doing good. because once you have a solid pedel providing mild stopping, to go to full on braking will only take about 1/4" more travel in the master cylinder max! Which would equate to about an additional 1" or so at the pedal Max! But this is where another problem introduces itself. I'm talking about flexing of the pedal linkage and master cylinder mount. On my van I can see the master cylinder when I aplly the brakes. When I push on the pedal for full on brakeing I can then easily push the pedal another inch or more because my master cylinder mount begines to fllex. This is actually a problem that happens on many factory built cars as well. You watch the master when somebody pushes hard on the pedal in your daily driver. Some GMs actually had a factory recall because the fire wall was bending and staying bent making the pedal closer to the floor and running out of bpedal movement. Anyways I notice my master cylinder mount flexes quite a bit and I will be adding some re-inforcment there

M1D

OK The pedal is about 7 inches when resting .it needs to go down 2-+ inches before any resistence and then perhaps an inch to really apply the brakes I was just wondering if that is what most of you have or am I still off? I am wondering if the adjustable prop valve wil do anything to my situation? My drums in my other van need just a tap to apply 1 1/2 inch and they are full .. they work fantastic!!! too bad the Weber is flooding in the 2nd barrel. Thanks for the help!!

Heres what I have with four wheel disc.

At rest



apllied hard by hand



Front


rear


Just polished my wheels again

M1D

Cool but as they say round here If it aint chrome..stay home.. Just kidding, keep up the polishhing I used to spend 4 hrs a week on my billit stuff ( Harley engine cases)..I use WENOL antique polish..good stuff Dadio

I'm currently in the middle of bleeding mine! I will let you know what the height is once finished!

They used to be like this





Thats the nice part of alloys, you can restore then with a little elbow greese.

M1D

Oh yeah got to love that Salty air..... Mine do the same thing...

Great job M1.. You really go all out when you do something.. Will you be painting your van soon?
I think it rained here ,one time this year?
I can't remember