disc brake conversion kits????????????? expert opinions?

The paint on my van will do for now. It does need a strip and some body repair and repint but that will happen a little while after I get the mechanical part all worked out.

M1D

Ok I am ready to install the wilwood adjustable proportioning valve..my rears are locking up easily. Where does the valve go? Before the residuals? afterthem? but still before the T? I am pretty sure I will swap my rear end and go discs too will the valves need to be changed anyif you have 4 discs..

I finally got a working parking brake and all my lines hooked up. started with the old fashioned bleed method of a hose into a jar of fluid while I hand operated the brake from below, it pumps up after 5 hits so still has air issues. It sounds like the pressure bleeder was the ticket for purging the system from you guys ,, just want to confirm that?

I have the rears on from the kit not bad. but my mechanic friend is having trouble with the valves. he has switched master to a 69 van from Corvette. ??? he has a 2lb 2 two 10lb residuals and adjustable prortion and some valve he brought from a 60's 4 wheel disc car. plus droped the lines down asize and still not much pedal and the back lock up easy? this is getting ugly. Good news?? the new rear end is posi 4/11 and even my little tires stick out! any advice sarcasim?

THANKS FOR THE REPLY
well I had the Covette m/c in. yhen did the raes to disk and my mechanic said he had problems with it so we are on a 69 Chevy van m/c I wouldnt doubt the bore is bigger?
Went to a smaller brake kine put a 2 lb in the rear on the top of the differential.
out of the M?C he put a prop valve or box from a 7-s 4 wheel disc car. then 2 10 lbs residuals and adj prop valve. He has gone nuts, I tell him hes over doin it, nobody has had to use all this crap. He is know talking 1/8 inch lines. I should know more today maybe photos.. Thanks for the advice.

WDA...Believe me, I too have been going "Nuts" trying to get the pedal a better "Feel!" I have all of the above mentioned items on mine as well! 1" bore vette MC and all! I have not yet downsized the lines though?

B.W.

You guys are grabbing at staws

If the system is blead properly, the size of lines WILL NOT change the pedal hight. Smallest lines posible are recomended so the fluid will move at greater volocity thereby reducing internal corrosion and stagnation of the fluid.

Look at the pictures I have provided on earlier pages, That pedal is all your going to get. I am using the inch and one eight bore master cylinder. Your 1" bore master will make the pedal need to travel further then mine does but make the pedal a little easier to push.

You can get a one and one quarter bore master that will give a higher pedal but be hard to push to max and is recomended for use with a booster.

Your mechanic is grabing at staws, you dont need 47 valves and big lines with a small master bore he's going in the wrong direction!

What you see on my van is all you are going to get, if you want better you will have to re-design the leverage of the brake peddal arm itself.

And re-read what Don is saying about bleading your master and system.

All that is needed has been gone over on this post several times and here we are going full circle again.
I had no problems bleading my completly emty system the old schooll jar and hose method because I first made dam sure the master was properly "bench blead" (I think alot of people fall short here and don,t get every dam airbubble out of the master prior to instalation ) Then after installing the master I allowed the system to gravity blead on its own one wheel at at time then I did the pump the pedal thing one wheel at a time always starting with the wheel furthest away from the master (by line distance) and progressing to the clossest to the master, (always always making sure the master is NEVER aloud to go empty, otherwise start over with a bench blead)

M1D

Thanks Don aand m1 Bev-er.... Imagine Trailer Park boys, Bubbles with a few beers/..,, He has now hit the top and is working down or back to 2 valves. they lock up great but the pedal is way down. Now he wants to go back to a single bowl Master.. This is getting silly. whats the difference between corvette master and 69 van??size or bore?

Hi guys.. I have this parts van 68 3/4 ton Chevy I noticed it has a booster or something in the right corner in front of the passengers feet area. What is this would it help me?

donny would it do me any good to add it to the 65??

yes I have enough problems if this ever gets done I then need to do springs, shackles,bushings Thanks

I do think the earliest corvette 4 wheel discs were manual.
I think there was a shelby mustang and an AC cobra that came 4 wheel manual discs.

M1D

The master cylinder Im trying is for a 4 wheel manual disc 79 firebird. I dont have the specs on it tho. Those old Hydrovac brake boosters were common on dump trucks back in the day from what I recall they werent a blessing to keep operating right.

You guys can use the NAPA online parts search tool to find specs on parts.

That 79 firebird also came with four wheel manual disc.

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=430&CatId=3&SubCatId=3

And it used both same master cylinders as the 68 corvette.

In both cases they used a 1" for manual and a 1+1/8" for power brakes

M1D

if you want you can plug any bodys part number in useing the "partsPRO SE under NAPA Catalog on the left hand links.

Its real good. I look up stuff at jegs, summit or where ever then try the number at NAPA and usually get the part way cheeper.

M1D