by veefre Sat Nov 30, 2013 10:43 amSqueaking from front end suspension seems to have returned, not as loud as before but still more than I'd like. Now that my other big projects (felling trees and rebuilding car port roof) have pretty much finished, might be time to dive under the van and install those new bushings... except now I gotta remember where I stashed them!
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Space Truckin
G-Man
mikeysly
RipVanArkie
Digz
veefre
pan58head
mbasaraba
Joe Van
donivan65
NEK64
15 posters
Suspension bushings
veefre- Number of posts : 424
Location : San Leandro, California
Registration date : 2008-09-10
veefre- Number of posts : 424
Location : San Leandro, California
Registration date : 2008-09-10
A new clunk appeared in the general area of the left front wheel, so I decided it was time to repair the front spring bushings.
The good news is that the shackle kit I got fit perfectly. I suspected a shackle bushing might have failed completely, resulting in the new clunk, but I didn't see any complete failed bushing, but maybe one with an ovalized center bore. We'll see.
I was able to replace both shackle kits, left and right. Then I got as far as replacing the right front spring eyelet bushing. The good news there is that the replacement we were discussing, RB99, is also a perfect match for the old bushings. They also went in with just the right amount of interference, also a good sign.
It got too dark to continue so I'll finish off the right hand spring eyelet bushing tomorrow. Then comes the test drive to see if all the squeaking and the new clunk has changed. Hopefully, gone away. If not, maybe I need to investigate the teflon inter-leaf spring pads Doni's been mentioning.
Also did some work on the heat riser valve, I'll post that update over in the right thread for that.
The good news is that the shackle kit I got fit perfectly. I suspected a shackle bushing might have failed completely, resulting in the new clunk, but I didn't see any complete failed bushing, but maybe one with an ovalized center bore. We'll see.
I was able to replace both shackle kits, left and right. Then I got as far as replacing the right front spring eyelet bushing. The good news there is that the replacement we were discussing, RB99, is also a perfect match for the old bushings. They also went in with just the right amount of interference, also a good sign.
It got too dark to continue so I'll finish off the right hand spring eyelet bushing tomorrow. Then comes the test drive to see if all the squeaking and the new clunk has changed. Hopefully, gone away. If not, maybe I need to investigate the teflon inter-leaf spring pads Doni's been mentioning.
Also did some work on the heat riser valve, I'll post that update over in the right thread for that.
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12245
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
I would disconnect the bottom of each shock absorber and let it hang to see if that makes the clunk go away,,,,,,,
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veefre- Number of posts : 424
Location : San Leandro, California
Registration date : 2008-09-10
Interesting if a bit risky. I know where the clunk usually occurs, not far from home. In other words, not there all the time.
I was going to retorque upper shock mount bolt. Just in case. Relatively high quality Rancho adjustible compression shocks.
Back to the squeaking... if replacing the bushings all round front end doesn't do the trick, what's the specs on the teflon shims you say belong in the leaf springs? Do they require the leaf springs to be completely disassembled to be installed? I don't believe I've seen anything in print about such an animal.
I was going to retorque upper shock mount bolt. Just in case. Relatively high quality Rancho adjustible compression shocks.
Back to the squeaking... if replacing the bushings all round front end doesn't do the trick, what's the specs on the teflon shims you say belong in the leaf springs? Do they require the leaf springs to be completely disassembled to be installed? I don't believe I've seen anything in print about such an animal.
mark-t- Number of posts : 185
Location : scituate rhode island
Registration date : 2013-09-16
had a sometimes clunk in the front of my 69, the shackles were hitting the frame because the bushings were oblong
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12245
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
1st Gen springs have a pocket that holds the inserts in,,,,,you spread the leafs with a screwdriver and slide them in after you loosen the rebound clamps a little,,,,,,2nd Gen and aftermarket springs are probably a little bit different,,,,,,,switch the shocks side to side and see if the clunk changes,,,,,,peoples sometimes find loose or wrong size bolts, wallowed out holes, or something wrong with the bushings when they take a closer look at the shocks......
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12245
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
also,,,,,loosen up each front bushing bolt a little, one at a time, to take the pressure off the bushing,,,,see if the squeeking changes,,,,,,you need to find some clues to point you in the right direction,,,,
veefre- Number of posts : 424
Location : San Leandro, California
Registration date : 2008-09-10
Don't see any such inserts in the current springs. And don't recall seeing them illustrated in the '67 service manual, either, but I'll take another look.
I'll be torquing the front bushing bolts to 75 lbs, per the service manual. If the squeaking returns I'll try backing that off.
I'll be torquing the front bushing bolts to 75 lbs, per the service manual. If the squeaking returns I'll try backing that off.
veefre- Number of posts : 424
Location : San Leandro, California
Registration date : 2008-09-10
Well, finished the front bushings. The high pitched squeaking seems to be greatly reduced. There is still some creaking which I suppose is the inevitable result of rubber bushings rubbing on clean metal (I didn't lube the bushings at all).
The clunk is still there, but I noticed something unusual about the left rear shock today. It's loosed on its lower bolt. The bolt is tight, it's just that there is play between the metal ID of the lower mount and the OD of the mounting bolt. It may be that this is being telegraphed to the driver's position so it sounds like it's coming from under (and behind) the driver's seat.
I also discovered the cause of the low power... will discuss in a new thread.
The clunk is still there, but I noticed something unusual about the left rear shock today. It's loosed on its lower bolt. The bolt is tight, it's just that there is play between the metal ID of the lower mount and the OD of the mounting bolt. It may be that this is being telegraphed to the driver's position so it sounds like it's coming from under (and behind) the driver's seat.
I also discovered the cause of the low power... will discuss in a new thread.
veefre- Number of posts : 424
Location : San Leandro, California
Registration date : 2008-09-10
Also, I checked the service manual - no mention of interleaf spring pads. Also don't see any dimples and such on the springs that would accept them.
panelmanrd- Number of posts : 801
Location : kcmo
Age : 63
Registration date : 2009-10-04
second gen springs don't have the Teflon glide pads
like the first gens, I smeared some wheel brng grease
between the springs at front and at the rear where
the ends of the springs ride, also installed the bushing kit
that don recommends, that with some new front shocks
this thing rides like a new car. no noises from the front end
at all.
like the first gens, I smeared some wheel brng grease
between the springs at front and at the rear where
the ends of the springs ride, also installed the bushing kit
that don recommends, that with some new front shocks
this thing rides like a new car. no noises from the front end
at all.
Twinpilot001- Number of posts : 6186
Location : spokane ,Wa.
Registration date : 2009-09-28
summit has the cut & do it urself teflon spring between the leaf stuff!! 
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12245
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
I would give those thin 12" square plastic cutting boards at the 99 cents store a try to see if they work and how long they last,,,,,
veefre- Number of posts : 424
Location : San Leandro, California
Registration date : 2008-09-10
panelmanrd wrote:second gen springs don't have the Teflon glide pads
like the first gens, I smeared some wheel brng grease
between the springs at front and at the rear where
the ends of the springs ride, also installed the bushing kit
that don recommends, that with some new front shocks
this thing rides like a new car. no noises from the front end
at all.
Thanks.
Some years back (around 2009, probably) I brushed some anti-seize onto the exposed areas of the leaves when the van was jacked up with the weight off the wheels. I notice that it's still there so it might not be necessary to renew that. Although I might try removing the hold-down clamps at the rear of each spring, near the shackles, to see if some anti-seize or lube can be added there. I know from leafing through my old car manuals that some leaf springs used to have covers to hold in lubricant. Although I don't think I've ever seen one in person.
I used the anti-seize because it's extremely tenacious and difficult to remove. A mechanic friend of mine once called it "Never Clean"... LOL...
veefre- Number of posts : 424
Location : San Leandro, California
Registration date : 2008-09-10
donivan65 wrote:I would give those thin 12" square plastic cutting boards at the 99 cents store a try to see if they work and how long they last,,,,,
What color works best?
I do have some of that thin cutting board material, not being used, so it's certainly worth a try. I think the material is high denisty polypropylene. Not sure how long it will last, although it may have more structural integrity than teflon anyway.
veefre- Number of posts : 424
Location : San Leandro, California
Registration date : 2008-09-10
Twinpilot001 wrote:summit has the cut & do it urself teflon spring between the leaf stuff!!
I'll check that out as well, thanks.
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12245
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
veefre wrote:donivan65 wrote:I would give those thin 12" square plastic cutting boards at the 99 cents store a try to see if they work and how long they last,,,,,
What color works best?
I do have some of that thin cutting board material, not being used, so it's certainly worth a try. I think the material is high denisty polypropylene. Not sure how long it will last, although it may have more structural integrity than teflon anyway.
,,,,it is a test,,,,,,,see if it works or how long it lasts,,,,,,you run tests to try and eliminate some of the 100 guesses,,,,,,,,,,
veefre- Number of posts : 424
Location : San Leandro, California
Registration date : 2008-09-10
Well, I found and fixed one souce of rattle/clunk.
Turns out the passenger door receiver portion of the latch was loose. The flathead screws had actually abraded away the mounting area on the door, which is countersunk (by pressing). The screws wound up floating past the sheet metal. I fixed that by using some large washers to spread the load over the surrounding sheet metal. Also went all around and tightened up all the door latch and hinge mounting bolts. Nothing too surprising there; there is a still a rattle/clunk under the driver seat area, which will take some more time to track down. It's possible it's just some of the long ass linkage rods rattling in their tracks.
Also I can tell the rear end bushings probably could use replacement as well. All the springs probably need to be dipped in teflon as well. Come to think of it, I've got a can of teflon spray in the shop. Probably dates back to the 1970's.
Turns out the passenger door receiver portion of the latch was loose. The flathead screws had actually abraded away the mounting area on the door, which is countersunk (by pressing). The screws wound up floating past the sheet metal. I fixed that by using some large washers to spread the load over the surrounding sheet metal. Also went all around and tightened up all the door latch and hinge mounting bolts. Nothing too surprising there; there is a still a rattle/clunk under the driver seat area, which will take some more time to track down. It's possible it's just some of the long ass linkage rods rattling in their tracks.
Also I can tell the rear end bushings probably could use replacement as well. All the springs probably need to be dipped in teflon as well. Come to think of it, I've got a can of teflon spray in the shop. Probably dates back to the 1970's.
veefre- Number of posts : 424
Location : San Leandro, California
Registration date : 2008-09-10
Squeaks returned in force today... detailed it in another thread... here...
https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t40343-more-fun-with-squeaks
https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t40343-more-fun-with-squeaks
DanInWNY- Number of posts : 11
Location : Cheektowaga, NY
Registration date : 2020-07-23
G-Man wrote:Has anyone else have different size eyelet hole on there front 1st gen springs???
YES!!! Are you still here G-Man?!
So I got my first gen a decade ago, at least, and have just now got back to reassembling it. I was just finishing up the task of rebuilding the leaf springs. I bought the leaf spring bushing years and years ago.
I break out the bushings from the stack of parts boxes, and go to fit them, and come to find the front springs, front eyes aren't the 1.125"(?) ID, but instead, somewhere around 1 5/8 ID!!
In the thread, I've seen pics of the 2056's (ES 4.2126/Prothane 4063) at the 1.125"(?) OD, the ES 2073 bushings at 1.49" OD, but nothing any 1.625" OD.
Do you have any further info?!
TIA.
Dan
