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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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    suspension parts

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    Post by Guest Thu Apr 09, 2009 4:44 pm

    hey all... hope everyone is doing great and enjoying the weather....
    i have a big favor to ask... i want to know the names of all the parts of the front suspension to our vans.
    i have looked at different books and none that i've seen have a nice picture with names.. like the exploded view of things.
    i want to clean the suspension and replace some of the parts that need so and beautify it by adding some color.. any upgrade ideas..
    i'll post a picture of my van's suspension latter
    thanks..
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    Post by Guest Fri Apr 10, 2009 4:09 pm

    suspension parts Pictur21

    suspension parts Pictur22

    suspension parts Pictur23

    suspension parts Pictur24

    suspension parts Pictur25
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    crazee


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    Post by crazee Sat Apr 11, 2009 9:07 am

    top is shock/ sway bar mount.......

    2nd is the Axel to spring hangers...........the round thing is not stock but likely added as a spacer so somebody could use the "TOO LONG" U-bolts" shown. ( because they couldn't find the correct ones???)

    3rd is Sway bar connecting to sway bar mount. ( not all van have the sway bay)

    4th is Spring to frame mount.........KNOWN AS A "Spring Shackle". Yours does not look stock either.

    5th is rear spring shackle.......( looks like the stock one).

    The stuff you need to worry about replacing is not shown........

    Stuff like your tie rod ends........drag link........king pins & "MAYBE" Spindles.

    These are the things that "usually" need replaced when a front end becomes worn.

    I'd also check my wheel bearings to see if they are properly lubed and correctly torqued...........and likely install new shocks.

    Good tires and a front end alignment after is also GOOD!

    I also suggest you buy a Econoline shop manual off Ebay..........cheap and the info is invaluable.
    Smile
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    crazee


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    Post by crazee Sat Apr 11, 2009 9:09 am

    PS..........I just did my front end...........now am painting complete underside black after a coating of rust converter..........then painting springs and axles... red.... front and back after that.

    Smile
    EconoUSAparts
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    Post by EconoUSAparts Sun Apr 12, 2009 9:22 pm

    Crazee nailed most of it but I ll add that in pic 2 the spring u-bolts arent stock and are too long, that' s why the pipe spacer is in there. The other circled item is the sway bar end link and its broken but might be able to be welded back. Pic 3 shows the top of the same end link. Shackles in pic 4 definitely not stock.
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sun Apr 12, 2009 9:38 pm

    #4 is a lift kit shackle, like what I got on the rear of my van. I guess that would be some kind of repair for a van that was leaning because of a sagging spring,,,,,,,
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    Post by Guest Mon Apr 13, 2009 10:22 am

    then i need not to worry about those piping-long-u-bolting?
    im sure i need to weld that link back..
    and the shackles, can i leave like that?.. or should i invest in a new set?

    i been looking for a shop manual, but i found some suplemental books? is that the one i need... or do i need both? haha Embarassed
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Mon Apr 13, 2009 10:52 am

    Those are patches that someone did to it,,,,,,they look like they work,,,,,,and tell them that the pipe is a rocket launcher or something, (Check to see that it don't hit something when you bottom out),,,,I don't think hooking up that swaybar will make a whole lot of difference,,,,,,just practice
    driving the van a little to get a feel of what its limits are so you know what to expect on the road. There are probably a couple of books for your van. I think the chassis service would be the main one, then some supplements
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    Post by EconoUSAparts Mon Apr 13, 2009 11:30 am

    I would get the correct length u bolts. If the pipe spacer takes a beating from driving over time and collapses(even a little bit) over time it will cause movement and you want your front end as tight as possible for best handling. Remove the rubber insert bushing before trying to weld the end link. Lastly,get the 61 shop manual. Not sure what year your van is but you may need the supplements too. Most things you need will be in the 61 manual but a lot of things changed in the later years too. I ve got the full set myself.
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    Post by donivan65 Mon Apr 13, 2009 2:32 pm

    You can't really trust the pipe set up, especially at high speed or mountain roads,,,, but I would think Napa might have U Bolts if it is not a weird size,,,,,,,
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    Post by crazee Mon Apr 13, 2009 4:44 pm

    Yep...lose the pipe setup.replace with correct u-bolts.

    And the sway bar DOES mean a whole lot on an Econoline.......improves handling greatly. I've had it both ways and know.

    Good shocks and one of them after-market tie-rod shocks will really improve handling also.
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    Post by donivan65 Mon Apr 13, 2009 5:13 pm

    So what about those sway bar links, Do a lot of Fords have sway bars,,,,,do these links break a lot,,,,,can you still get them? Is it something I should take off if I find some in my Pick a Parts????
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    Post by Guest Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:49 am

    ok.. then i'll start with that piping.... it has got to go... sometimes it hits that side when i bottom out... and i have not taken the van for long drive yet... haha
    then the shackles and the link.... slowly but surely i'll find why the previous owner had that patch-work done to the van..
    and for the books... i will keep my eye open...

    it be great if someone had those in DVD format.. Wink Wink im sure many people like me will buy them
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    Post by donivan65 Tue Apr 14, 2009 8:37 am

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    Post by donivan65 Tue Apr 14, 2009 8:43 am

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    Post by crazee Tue Apr 14, 2009 4:16 pm

    beanses wrote:then i need not to worry about those piping-long-u-bolting?
    im sure i need to weld that link back..
    and the shackles, can i leave like that?.. or should i invest in a new set?

    i been looking for a shop manual, but i found some suplemental books? is that the one i need... or do i need both? haha Embarassed

    The sup will give you about all ya need.............. Wink
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    Post by crazee Tue Apr 14, 2009 4:26 pm

    donivan65 wrote:So what about those sway bar links, Do a lot of Fords have sway bars,,,,,do these links break a lot,,,,,can you still get them? Is it something I should take off if I find some in my Pick a Parts????

    "MOST" Econoline have the sway bars that I have seen. Never saw one break. Don't know if they can be bought new but likely not.

    They really do help handling a lot............especially on the highway.
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    Post by Guest Wed Apr 22, 2009 12:19 pm

    well. im waiting for that link to be welded back on..
    while i wait i'd like to ask a question regarding the brakes
    the van has new brake pads. all four, turned drums. and i have this issue.. when i brake it tends to go to the left.. i tried going fast on the alley and slam on the brake pad and it looks like the only wheel stopping the van is the front drivers' side tire.. when i did this the van went like a whip to the left...
    what do i need to check???
    does this have anything to do with the sway bar link?
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    Post by crazee Wed Apr 22, 2009 3:17 pm

    beanses wrote:well. im waiting for that link to be welded back on..
    while i wait i'd like to ask a question regarding the brakes
    the van has new brake pads. all four, turned drums. and i have this issue.. when i brake it tends to go to the left.. i tried going fast on the alley and slam on the brake pad and it looks like the only wheel stopping the van is the front drivers' side tire.. when i did this the van went like a whip to the left...
    what do i need to check???
    does this have anything to do with the sway bar link?

    OK..........super fast brake 101 class-------------->

    Well..........unless you did a "DISC BRAKE CONVERSION"...........you do not have pads............you have shoes ( BRAKE SHOES).....10" X 2 1/2" if memory serves me correctly. They do not "self adjust" like disc brakes do ( via brake fluid pressure )..............they have a "mechanical" adjuster...accessed through backing plate on drum via a slot in bottom of said backing plate. ( YOU REALLY DO NEED A MANUAL RATHER THAN FLYING BLIND DUDE)

    The adjuster has what's called a "star wheel" on it ( a wheel with notches cut into it) that turns the adjuster when backing and hitting the brakes. Or you can do it manually using a brake adjuster tool or the famous multi-tool called a flat blade screw driver...... clown

    The point of adjusting brakes correctly is to have them ---------

    1- all adjusted the same
    2- just tight enough to drag but not lock brakes when pedal is not pushed.

    Also one must take into consideration that all drums be defect free ( turned and smooth) and that no grease or other contaminants are between drum and shoe.

    If the brakes are not adjusted evenly (correctly) then one engages sooner and makes your van pull to that side when you use brakes.

    If you have grease in one drum............it will make it do the same.

    If your wheel brake cylinder is bad it will make it do the same.

    LAST THING IS THIS................

    You have rubber brake lines connecting wheels to hard lines on frame. If you have a weak or leaking or internally clogged rubber line you will get the same issues.

    OH YES...........then we have the not really assembled correctly syndrome and the something came loose inside the drum syndrome to also take into consideration.......... What a Face

    NOW YOU KNOW..............

    But I'd buy a good manual and follow manual procedures to inspect, repair and adjust correctly.

    have fun.
    cheers
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    Post by Guest Wed Apr 22, 2009 3:45 pm

    the manual i need to get.. for sure
    i adjusted those star wheels with that multi-tool before mentioned.. great invention i have to say but the drivers' side wheel keeps going first.
    drums are turned and no grease between brake "choose" and drum
    and the wheel cylinder.. that,, i want to get the four new kits.. or should i go with the new cylinders?
    how can i check for a clogged arterie?
    and no, no internal breakeage syndrome.. i just checked that.
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    Post by EconoUSAparts Wed Apr 22, 2009 8:52 pm

    The sway bar end links break with age. It's fairly common. Most ones I see arent reuseable but you may stumble on a good one from time to time. The threads get all distorted,etc. Dodge A100 links are thicker and work on Econollines well. Some guys make their own reusing the loop and a long bolt or all thread. The sway bar does help the handling a lot in my opinion.
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Wed Apr 22, 2009 9:34 pm

    I would go down the road and pull on the parking brake and see what the rear wheels do,,,,,,,also jack it up off the ground and as someone slowly pushes on the brake pedal spin each wheel and see if you notice any grabbing or if the brake shoes are not holding all 4 wheels as you try and turn each one by hand. That will tell you if you have any froze up wheel cylinders,,,,,,I would go for new or rebuilt wheel cylinders,,,,,,,if you see that the insides of yours are all corroded,,,,,,,
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    Post by crazee Thu Apr 23, 2009 8:46 am

    easy way to check rubber hoses being clogged is to bleed them. If they don't squirt they are clogged.........or if they just squirt less than the other ones.

    I just did a front brake job on mine. Had one rubber hose clogged. I replaced both on front. It's always best to replace them in pairs. (Both front or both rear).

    $19.99 each at Advance Auto. They ordered them over night. Make sure you get the correct length. They list 12" and 17". 17" is the right ones for front.
    3/8 fittings........male on one end...female on other.

    Also do as Donovan suggests...........good tests. Smile

    You can also try backing up and then pumping the brakes hard to stop...........do this over and over a few times. If your adjusters are working correctly they will adjust the brakes for you like this ( as they only adjust in reverse use)

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