Scarebird brakes

Thanks for the advice. My boss is a hotrod guy, and he brought me a 15" steel that looks like the one on the yellow van. It clears no problem. Now I'm feeling better and might try to find a 14 that works.

I am going to use new bolts to mount the caliper plate. I have already purchased grade 8 bolts. My question is: will the standard split lockwasher be enough to keep everything tight? should I use some lock-tight? I was going to reuse the original bolts with castle nuts, but one was stubborn and mushroomed out during removal.
thanks

I WOULD ADD LOCK TIGHT FOR GOOD MEASURE, NEVER HURTS TO BE SAFE,,

Hey if this is covered, I apologize...  Does anyone know if the 14" Torq-Thrust D wheels will clear??

i dont think this will help but i have some cheap 14'' chrome reverse wheels that fit after i ground down the caliper a little,

can you post a photo of the wheel from the back that might help.

What lug studs have some of you used for the upgrade?  The ones I cut off from the hubs were Dorman 610-039.  I want to be sure I have enough length for new wheels.  If I have to get longer studs and cut them i will.  thanks
Edit: I just measured my old drums and they were 10".  I assume you measure the inside width.
i see so many options on rock auto, both for 10 and 11 inch drums.  Were the hubs different between the 10 and 11 inch hubs?

did you get my pm ? i used arp 070-100-7703 studes  and my pictures are correct,   john

dodge man wrote:did you get my pm ? i used arp 070-100-7703 studes  and my pictures are correct,   john

I got your PM. thanks.  I still think 3.5 inches is too long, so I decided to break new ground and have order a set of Moser 8010 studs:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msr-8010

They are only 3 inches.  I contacted Moser and confirmed the Knurl length is 3/8".  The thickness of the knurl area on my hubs are 1/2 inch.  I'm going to take some earlier advice and use some loctite 609 retaining compound on the studs for added strength.  
I'm going to take pics and post them when it's done to share with the group.

hope they work out for you, with these i would have to cut if i had other wheel and hub caps,
john

I'm posting this info since there have been been many questions as to caliper clearance and wheel size.  These are my findings for my specific application with a 2200lbs axle on an A100.
To read about my wheel stud adventures, see my post in the "Between the Seats" section called "This Stud's for you".  
For starters, these are the wheels my son chose for his van:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crr-3655712/overview/
Check the link for more info on their specifications, but in a nutshell, they are 15x7, 3.75inch backspace, and our usual bolt pattern of 5 on 4.5

In this first photo, I have the wheel on the floor upside down, followed by the brake caliper on a rotor, and then topped off with my hub.  The Caliper and Rotor are the Scarebird suggested parts for the conversion.  You can see that there is plenty of clearance when these wheels are used. Well, if the wheel wasn't so dark, it would be more clear, but they do fit.


In this second photo, I have placed my finger in the space where the caliper and the wheel are at their closest.  I estimate between 3/8" to 1/2" of clearance where my finger is pictured.


This final shot is the front of the wheel with the lug studs poking through. I have center caps ready to go for the final installation.


I'm hoping if you match the specs for the wheels i'm using, you'll be able to get comparable wheels for your disc and wheel upgrade.
thanks
Equium

Hey all,
I just did a quick read through this thread and am looking if anyone has created a master parts list for this front drum to disk conversion? I didn't see one, but would like to go shopping with one:D 
Thanks in advance
Jesse

jfox wrote:Hey all,
I just did a quick read through this thread and am looking if anyone has created a master parts list for this front drum to disk conversion? I didn't see one, but would like to go shopping with one:D 
Thanks in advance
Jesse

I too would like do this conversion and having a complete list of required parts would be very helpful. Not only from a must have angle but also optional components that improve the conversion. Thanks!

Welcome Radical!
I haven't been knee deep in this conversion like others here, but I'd guess that the seller (scarebird) provides a parts list.

I will say that unless you are well versed in measuring caliper offset, width with full pads and worn pads, rotor bearing spacing and offset, and can work your way through brake system sizing math, swapping parts should be avoided.

If you can do all that, you should be able to come up with your own component list!

Brakes are an area where close is not an option, they must be right!

Considering the suggested parts DO fit in a 14" wheel as Equium shows, there is going to be a larger rotor that will increase swept area if you use a 15" wheel. But will the adapter bracket still be able to provide a safety margin, will the caliper bore sizing still work with the pedal ratio and master bore, etc.

To whoever bumped this thread.... you suck.  You got me in hot water with the little lady. LOL.

Was going to pull my engine this weekend but took a header and my back is jact up so there I was happily lurking the forums and stumble across this thread again. Just when I had made up my mind to stick with my drums and now I have talked myself into going ahead and doing the swap. Now the tuff part, I  have to get clearance from her after I just shot my wad on my engine crap. think I will go with the "just looking out for your saftey hun" angle and think she will go for it hehe.

Just going through and re reading this thread I have a pretty complete list of the crap I will need (all of you that are wanting a list of everything just go through and read the thread again and most the part/item numbers and stuff are in here just not consolidated) maybe if I get some time I will go through my notes and just re post a list of all the crap so it is in one spot for the next guy.

Looks as if a guy can get it done for 450-500 if you order everything up off the interwebz but think I can get that number down some with a little hunting around and some sweat equity. Think I will just grab some calipers and prob the MC from my buddy who has a junk yard on the Mesa and rebuild it myself as it really is not that big of a deal doing so. Hell any of us that took HS auto had to do it. That was like 30 yrs ago but think enuff of my brain cells have survived the gauntlet that I retained everything needed to get the job done. I am just going to price out the diff between rebuilding stuff and buying it already done and if it is close I will go ahead and pop for the already rebuilt stuff but it really isn't that big of a deal to do it kinda just comes down to how you want to spend your cash.

Hrmmm maybe I will hit her with that 500 number anyways and then I will have enuff left over to grab that front window seal I am needing....

I think those wheels you boy picked out will look good on there Equium depending on how you plan on finishing your van out but they would look sweet if you are going for a Rod type look or something. Nice price point on them too! heck baby moons run close to 20 a pop, you can't beat 55 bucks a corner for new wheels man. I didn't see but do they come with the center caps as well?

*edit* nevermind i just answered my own question, it is early and haven't had my coffee yet.  They do not come with the center caps but they were like 6 bucks a shot so that isn't bad at all.

Im with you. I want to do this, please share your list of needed items to do it!

Spent all weekend on the '65 A100 Van just getting the brackets, hubs, rotors, and calipers installed. Finding the right wheel studs for the hubs when using a stock 15" wheel, was a chore! Gotta be 1/2-20 threads (7/16" has too small a shoulder/shank to fit into the stock hub). Removing the old swedged lug bolts ain't easy either - so I favored the cut 'em off and press 'em out approach. Dorman part # 610-290.1 did the trick for new lug studs. Took better part of the day to find enough between local Advance and Auto Zones tho. Then the real chore: grinding the calipers to fit inside the stock 15" wheels. That took nearly a full day too, as once you think you have it in the ballpark, you still have to put the wheel on, take it off, grind, put it back on, take it off, grind more - about 30 times each wheel - before they'll fit. And the amount you have to remove is SCARY! However, the GM calipers spec'd by Scarebird are way over-built - so there's plenty of material to spare - but still, you just cannot believe how much you have to take off to fit 'em! Once on, though, the whole set-up is quite impressive!

I have them on mine as well, only had to grind the edge of the caliper a little to fit my 14'' wheels. you'll like them tho they stop much better,

The specs below are from Amazon.  I was surprised to see the differences in diameter.

Raybestos 66492R 11.9 x 11.9 x 3.0 inches
Raybestos 66492 12.1 x 12.0 x 2.9 inches
Raybestos 66492PR 13.1 x 12.6 x 3.2 inches
Raybestos 66492PL 13.9 x 13.3 x 3.9 inches


But the above info can be misleading.
I confirmed at the source, all of the above have the same physical specs.
http://www.raybestosbrakes.com/magnoliaPublic/home/catalog.html
(quality differences aside, virtually identical)


+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
I'm only in planning phase.  Built this list, but I will need to double-confirm everything before I pull any triggers.

Rotor Left          1995-97 Crown Vic - slotted   66492PL         66.54  Amazon
Rotor Right        1995-97 Crown Vic - slotted   66492PR         66.60  Amazon

Caliper, LH        1988-91 GMC 1500 - loaded   TS 1422136M  35.10  Napa
Caliper, RH        1988-91 GMC 1500 - loaded   TS 1422137M  35.10  Napa

Brake Hose LH 1979-82 Chevy G10 Van             BH36855           15.50  Amazon
Brake Hose RH 1979-82 Chevy G10 Van             BH36956           18.53  Amazon

Banjo Bolt 1of2  1988-91 GMC 1500                    DORMAN 13940 5.90 Amazon
(2of2)               1988-91 GMC 1500                    DORMAN 13940 5.90 Amazon

                                                                                                249.17 TOTAL
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
I hope to convert to disc this fall/winter - 2014.
.

Is there anybody that can post a pict of how they routed the drivers side brake hose?. This is a bigger pain than fixing the barn door latches.. Maybe they gave me the wrong hose?. My van is a 64, the mount for the rubber hose is in front of the bump stop. (My 66 parts truck has the same mount).
Thanks...Scott

BoneMan wrote:The specs below are from Amazon.  I was surprised to see the differences in diameter.

Raybestos 66492R 11.9 x 11.9 x 3.0 inches
Raybestos 66492 12.1 x 12.0 x 2.9 inches
Raybestos 66492PR 13.1 x 12.6 x 3.2 inches
Raybestos 66492PL 13.9 x 13.3 x 3.9 inches


But the above info can be misleading.
I confirmed at the source, all of the above have the same physical specs.
http://www.raybestosbrakes.com/magnoliaPublic/home/catalog.html
(quality differences aside, virtually identical)


+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
I'm only in planning phase.  Built this list, but I will need to double-confirm everything before I pull any triggers.

Rotor Left          1995-97 Crown Vic - slotted   66492PL         66.54  Amazon
Rotor Right        1995-97 Crown Vic - slotted   66492PR         66.60  Amazon

Caliper, LH        1988-91 GMC 1500 - loaded   TS 1422136M  35.10  Napa
Caliper, RH        1988-91 GMC 1500 - loaded   TS 1422137M  35.10  Napa

Brake Hose LH 1979-82 Chevy G10 Van             BH36855           15.50  Amazon
Brake Hose RH 1979-82 Chevy G10 Van             BH36956           18.53  Amazon

Banjo Bolt 1of2  1988-91 GMC 1500                    DORMAN 13940 5.90 Amazon
(2of2)               1988-91 GMC 1500                    DORMAN 13940 5.90 Amazon

                                                                                                249.17 TOTAL
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
I hope to convert to disc this fall/winter - 2014.
.

YOU STILL NEED THE WHEEL STUDS AND MASTER CYLINDER  AND I'D SUGEST INSTALLING NEW INTER AND OUTER WHEEL BEARINGS  AND SOME HARD BRAKE LINES  WHILE YOU ARE THERE..  JUST MY 2 CENTS .

oh yeah. Thanks dix.
I had not considered doing the hard lines, but now that you mention it, I better do some homework on that, and the master cylinder. I have a double-flare tool for starters. :-)

Thanks to VV's equium on the stud info.   
https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t34987-this-stud-s-for-you?

The master cylinder used is from a 1972/73/74 b200 dodge van it had disc brakes ,
But did not have power brakes. at napa it's about $27.00

Has anyone had the caliper bolts hit the sway bar link? I'm at a loss, I even pulled everything apart and tried to put the caliper on the back side of the wheel. it seems to me that if the backing plate was rotated a bit there wouldn't be an issue.

yes mine hit on turns but its not an issue I keep checking my hoses too but after 400 miles theres no problems