Scarebird brakes

He uses 95 to 97 Crown victoria rotors. I bought mine new from Napa, a little pricey, but I have good luck with them not warping. The calipers are 88 to 91 Chevy 1500 pieces. All my parts should be here Monday or Tuesday. Then the assembly begins!!! The ET aluminum rims are 15" so I am sure they will fit over the rotors.

Tom

glad to here you are on the way

I bought the calipers from rockauto also. The core charges can get you if you don't watch it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Premium-Performance-DRILLED-SLOTTED-BRAKE-ROTORS-FRONT-SS-61047-/160662268145?fits=Year:1996|Model:Crown%20Victoria&hash=item256837a8f1&item=160662268145&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

I've had them for almost a year and i bet i have over 12k on them now. With no problems at all.

13-1572 cardone master cylinder for a 71 dodge b100 on ebay will that work, and what brake hoses do you use? i'm putting together a list of what all i'll need beside the scarebird brackets, did anyone put a list together of all the parts and part numbers?

Here is a link to the "right" instructions i got that comes with the brackets

http://www.orchidlakecandles.com/manual.pdf

thanks john, this is what i need,

Stoopid john wrote:I have the scarebird brackets and every thing works great. I still say it stops better, faster, safer and easier with the disc.







The only problem i had was, that the instructions i got with the kit said to install the brackets one way and someone sent me instructions by email that said something different.

I don't have a proportioning valve on mine at all. Mine is also a 108.

did you use longer studs john? if so do you remember the part number

Yes, i used 555-65111 from jegs and they have a .615" knurl. But to be honest, they didn't fit at tight as i like and due to time, i tack welded them in to make sure they didn't spin in the future.

I have a set of ARP 070-100-7703 studs sitting here to install that have a .625" knurl. I'll feel much better with them in, but i just haven't had a reason to take the wheels off.

For me the worst part of the whole job was getting the drums off the hubs. The org studs are mushroomed so bad to hold the drums on that you can't (shouldn't) just press the old studs out. I used a grinder to cut the studs off and then used the grinder to cut into the drum until the top of the stud was gone. Then the drums fell off the hubs.

thanks john, i'll get me some ARP studs

Stoopid john wrote:

Nice wheels john. What size are they? Particularly interested in width and back-spacing.

And, does anyone know of any problems running stock wheels (15 x 5.5", 4" backspace), or slightly modified (15 x 7.0", 4" backspace) with this brake setup? Looks like it'll work but you never know.

Hey John (or anyone that has made the switch to disc): can you provide an actual part number for the master cylinder. I keep confusing myself when looking them up. I'd feel better using the same part that was successfully used by another person.
Also, John, tell us more about those wheels. What vehicle die they come from? any rubbing lock to lock?
thanks,
danny

eq. there is about 10 to 15 companys making these . our vans are (A) series you are after the next newer model 1971 dodge b 100 or b200 van master clynder. it had front disc brakes and rear drum brakes but it did not have power brakes . when you buy it it will be a rebuilt master clynder. i'd sugest trying to buy wanger or bendix they are good replacment parts... hope this helps clear things up for you...

My wheels are off a 2009 Dodge Challenger, they are 18x7.5 with a 5.94 back space. The lug pattern is 5x115 and that ends up being 5x4.53 not our 5x4.5, close but no go. I bought adapters off ebay that bolt to the van with 4.5 and the wheel at 115mm. They space the wheels out 1.25" and that workd out perfect. I got all 4 rims on craigslist for $75.

So the end fit is a 7.5 wide wheel with a 4.75 back space.

In that photo i had 215/55r18 on the front and 235/55r18 in the rear. Now i have 235/55r18 in the front and 235/65r18 in the rear. It's crazy because the 65's are 30 inches tall! I have no rub at all. I bought the tires used to find what i liked. The stock Challenger tire is 235/55r18 so if you find a deal right off the car, they will fit.

I had 15x8's with a 4 inch back space on after the brake swap with no problems.

I'll have to dig for a part number on the M/C

That didn't take long

WAGNER R88783 Master cylinder.

i knew the wheels were dodge challenger and i was wondering how you got them mounted as i also knew the bolt pattern was different.(dodge mechanic). i figured you just redrilled the hubs to fit the bolt pattern and welded the original holes over. the 6 cyl and r/t challenger wheels are the ones pictured. but if anyone is thinking about getting a set of wheels the srt-8 wheels will no doubt be to big and they are 20" if memory serves me correctly. looks good ...................

I think the 20" will fit....look good????? I like the look of my van, big wheels, big tires and no space between the tire and fenders.

I've seen guys put the metric wheels on the standard hub, if you look at it quick or just don't know they go right on. They say the cone on the lug nut centers everything up and it's fine. That's nutzzz!!!!!

I got the discs installed, all in all it was an easy project. The only thing I don't care for is that if you want to check the fluid level the lid has to be removed from underneath. There just isn't enough room to get it from above anymore. I cut out enough metal just to get it in there. I haven't got to drive it yet, I need to install lift blocks in the rear to clear my 295/50R/15 tires!
I installed the DR496 brake light switch that I found the part number for searching on here. Had to do that because my 67 still had the pressure switches.

Tom

millwright71 wrote:I got the discs installed, all in all it was an easy project. The only thing I don't care for is that if you want to check the fluid level the lid has to be removed from underneath. There just isn't enough room to get it from above anymore. I cut out enough metal just to get it in there. I haven't got to drive it yet, I need to install lift blocks in the rear to clear my 295/50R/15 tires!
I installed the DR496 brake light switch that I found the part number for searching on here. Had to do that because my 67 still had the pressure switches.

Tom

how did your disc brakes turn out, is it easyer to stop than with the drums?

I drove it around town a few times before pulling the engine. I like the discs really well, the pedal effort is about the same as good drums, but it stops very nicely now. No rear wheel sliding either.

Tom

thanks tom, i'll wait till i need new front brakes then before i make the swap, my pedal isnt that bad to stop, but i'm sure mine would fade on a hill. i just dont want to spend that much money before i need to,

I don't blame you for not wanting to spend the cash right now, especially since you just rebuilt the whole system. I put mine on since the brakes needed attention anyway, and I plan to daily drive this thing next season, in addition to hopefully taking it to Myrtle Beach.

Tom

i'm ordering up everything for the disc brake conversion, what do you guys think about ceramic pads?

ceramic is better than metalic -yet as i understand will eat up rotors faster than standard pads .

I really prefer ceramic pads too, as long as they are high quality. They need to have the anti-squeak pads built into the back due to them being more susceptible to vibration. They also do not put off the dust like normal pads, thus keeping your rims cleaner. You will really like the disc conversion Dodge man. Remember to order calipers that are designated light duty.

Tom

ok thanks guys i didnt know what pad was better with the conversion, Tom you say light duty calipers, if i order say 90 gmc k1500 those would be light duty ?