Mustang II IFS build....

I have a few buddies that have used similar rack on off road buggies and the reviews I got were the got sloppy fast.

Army question about the setup you bought, I seen a few places offer the rear steer option. Did you look at that or was the front steer a better road to travel? Looks like you found a good supply of parts to go this way, would you suggest the front route?

mbasaraba wrote:I have a few buddies that have used similar rack on off road buggies and the reviews I got were the got sloppy fast.

Army question about the setup you bought, I seen a few places offer the rear steer option. Did you look at that or was the front steer a better road to travel? Looks like you found a good supply of parts to go this way, would you suggest the front route?

im not sure i understand your question. the kit was a rear steer as in the input shaft faced towards the rear of the vehicle. i rotated it and re mounted it so the input shaft faces forward because of the unique steering geometry of our early ford econolines. i hope that answers your question

I guess I understood rear steer as the rack was behind the gear box while a front was input same direction as you turn the steering wheel. Maybe clockwise or counter would be a better way for the to describe it. Thank you for the info. Can't wait to see the next phase.

I sent an email to the guy you gave me the link for, hopefully he gets back to me. Thanks again!

sorry for the silence. it has been slow going but i hope to fire up the new motor tomorrow morning.... finally, everything is hooked up..fuel line, trans lines, radiator hoses, all the wiring. i have to crack out the laptop and re write some for the mega squirt tune. so...hopefully tomorrow i will have good news and have it running. then it will be off to the alignment shop.

front steer is rac or tie rods in front of
axle center line, rear steer is rac or tie rods
behind axle center line.
this set up is front steer.
I have a mustang 2 set up in my panel truck, I love
the way it drives, like a go cart.
has been finished for 10 years nothing sloppy here.

This thread is just plain sick ... the only welding I can do is JB ... and when I tried the real stuff ... I realised that flannel is NOT what one should wear ... lol ... amazing this thread for sure

J=M

flannel and welding is a great spectator sport not
one to participate in. been there myself.

well guys...FAIL at starting the new motor. seems im having technical difficulties with my megasquirt...more like mickeymousesquirt. i ordered a new optoisolator for the U3 position...i know..bla bla blaa. anyways, hopefully its that 55 cent piece that is keeping me from getting a tach signal for my ECU. pretty much everything is on hold until i get a tach signal. i ll keep you guys posted.

thanks for the replies and thumbs ups.

You sure it's not a faulty Bindle rotor...haha, I just had to say that. Good luck, we know you will get her running.

Big W wrote:You sure it's not a faulty Bindle rotor...haha, I just had to say that. Good luck, we know you will get her running.

like i tell my wife...its nothing time and money cant fix.

MBASARABA, I may have just what you are looking for. It is a rack and pinion out of a golf cart. If you think this might work or are just interested I can get you measurements. Its never been used, I picked it up years ago when I hauled parts to/from ez-go.

Oh man.....finally. after weeks of dicking with this damn megasquirt fuel injection i finally got it to run today. turns out the chinese ebay special distributors are crap. i went to the junk yard and pulled an old distributor out of a mini van and dropped it in this morning. the difference between the two distributors is in the VR pickup. two different designs with the stock GM being superior...anyways, earlier today i was trying to get it to start..it would run rough..kick back..back fire..idle for a second and die...on and on. then while going through my setting in my ECU i found out that the ECU thinks my motor is an 8 cylinder...duh, so i changed it to 6 cylinder and everything smoooooothed right out...well a lot smoother than it has been. so next is tuning...getting the fuel and spark tables dialed in..then it will be off to the alignment shop. i just hope that all the gremlins that have plagued this van are behind me now.

Excellent news Army of six. Any pics yet of that engine bay? curious to see how you plumbed everything under that dog house.

what dog house? thats still on my to do list. lol. i ll post some pics of where im at tomorrow

went out there..fired it up..still running a little rough. im having a hard time getting the air fuel ratio correct because my wideband O2 sensor keeps re setting. anyways, i know its a front end build thread but here are some pics of where i am at right now.

Looks good, are you happy with the ride height?

If you haven't done it, put a brake booster check valve in-line with your PCV valve. Your clean engine will thank you later.

That's look'n mighty fine. So what are your plans for the dog house? Are you wanting to maintain the stock lid with custom side panels or just go for a complete custom look?

Stoopid john wrote:Looks good, are you happy with the ride height?

If you haven't done it, put a brake booster check valve in-line with your PCV valve. Your clean engine will thank you later.

thank you.

that is the ride height with the stock height spindles. tomorrow i plan to put the 2 inch drop spindles on. that should put me right where i want to be.

what is a brake booster check valve? how does it differ from the PCV valve?

Big W wrote:That's look'n mighty fine. So what are your plans for the dog house? Are you wanting to maintain the stock lid with custom side panels or just go for a complete custom look?

thank you. i plan on using the stock hood but i will have to lengthen it about 2 or 3 inches. im planning on hinging it in the front by the radiator so it will open towards the rear. custom side panels with a bunch of insulation. im thinking that i might try to incorporate some of the side walls with the lid. so when you open it more of the motor will be accessible. i ll will post picks as i build it. hopefully i will get off work early tomorrow.

The PCV valve was never meant to have positive (boost) pressure and can leak under boost. That adds pressure in the crank case that can make just about every seal/gasket leak engine oil. My wife's mustang pushed out the back of the intake gasket on the first trip around the block. They are just too cheap, not to use one.

The valve is what you hook the vacuum hose to on the booster.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-80190-Check-Valve-Power-Brake-Booster-Plastic-Black-Each-/370620993149?hash=item564abb8e7d&item=370620993149&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_1416wt_905

A trip to the junk yard is always good for that, somehow i always seem to leave with one in my pocket.

i know the negative side effects of positive crankcase pressure the hard way...lol the first time i got on it with my GTO i squirted half a quart of oil out the dipstick onto my exhaust manifolds.... spyhunter smoke screen style lol.

i checked the PCV valve in this motor and it seals nicely and as a precaution i installed a brake booster valve in the opposite valve cover. so when the crankcase is in vacuum the brake booster valve seals but if pressure in the crank case builds it will blow off the booster valve. i think it should work ok. this motor is a low boost...6 pounds, nothing crazy.

here is a pic of the spy hunter smoke machines motor

Nice, what turbo is that?

Stoopid john wrote:Nice, what turbo is that?

that is a borg-warner S400

That is a great turbo, we had a S480 on the wife's mustang

nice! yea, it has been a good turbo. the only drawback is the size and weight. The GTO has been my daily driver for the last couple months since the van has been under the knife.