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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


5 posters

    Lifter noise, 240 I6, hyd lifters

    sasktrini
    sasktrini


    Number of posts : 2067
    Location : Saskatoon, SK, Canada
    Registration date : 2008-05-20

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    Post by sasktrini Fri Dec 04, 2009 5:00 pm

    Well Donivan, the engine seemed to run when I got it, and I don't want to believe I did anything bad to it. Hopefully I can get it right. I think if I can get the engine running now (just got home from work, let it warm up and stall) and then set the preload manually, allowing a few minutes for some leakdown, maybe I'll be in the right ball park.

    Long term plans for the engine? I sure like the power compared to the 170s I've driven! I didn't want my long term plans to include a full rebuild and machining... definitely didn't want that in my short-term plans either! Want to be able to drive this van until I get the pink Merc done which would hopefully be spring. I guess then, I could take time with the 240.

    Demondog, I know it would be a PITA to try to fire that truck up out there in the field, especially now that the Saskatchewan prairie is frozen! I wish I had a couple engine stands and a workstation set up to do a solid rebuild! I guess if I am at the point where the only thing preventing me from driving the 65 is the engine, I would be real eager to buy a donor from you! It would be awesome if you have another Big Six out there!!!

    Anyway, I'm going to take another stab at this out in the garage tonight! Been reading a ton on valvetrains in the last day.

    EDIT: Do you mean "In the bed of the pickup," just sitting there? No wrenching?


    Last edited by sasktrini on Fri Dec 04, 2009 5:03 pm; edited 2 times in total (Reason for editing : In the box???)
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    Post by Guest Fri Dec 04, 2009 6:15 pm

    Yes it is in the truck bed. It has a auto trans hooked to it also. It is under a canvas cover in the bed of the white truck. I'm not sure it is a 240. When I got the truck the guy had put this engine there and said it was a good engine. How good now sitting since 2001. It may need the cylinders to soak with diesel.
    But is a inline 6.
    sasktrini
    sasktrini


    Number of posts : 2067
    Location : Saskatoon, SK, Canada
    Registration date : 2008-05-20

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    Post by sasktrini Fri Dec 04, 2009 9:05 pm

    After doing things like Donivan said, rocker adjustment is much different than my previous adjustments. Don't know how well it works yet though... out of gas and cash. Maybe I can work something out tomorrow. Thanks guys!
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    Post by Guest Fri Dec 04, 2009 9:41 pm

    had this van been sitting awhile?
    i dont think you have done anything thta would cause her to just die, run very poor hot yes but not die and not want to start back up. like donivan says you may be dealing with several small issues all at once, when it starts to die is there anything you can do to keep it running?when it does die have you checked for spark at the plug, if there is spark what color is it weak orange or strong brighter orange that makes a good snapping noise. when it peters out and dies turn ignition OFF, look down the carb and work the throttle to see if you have fuel spray, is the gauge possiblyoff alittle and you could be temporarily running out of fuel. blow bye is normal heck any engine with 40k will have some blow bye. blue smoke= burning some oil. i dont like engine oil additives but i use mmo, restore and gm oes, restore does actually do some good. also check for vacum leaks
    sasktrini
    sasktrini


    Number of posts : 2067
    Location : Saskatoon, SK, Canada
    Registration date : 2008-05-20

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    Post by sasktrini Fri Dec 04, 2009 11:55 pm

    Well, I expect different results... the adjustments are different.

    Prev Owner replaced the van with new vehicle more reliable for wife and toddler, so I know he had some reliability issues... but he drove it daily. We only live about a mile apart, so I've never had the van run for any length of time. Still lots of mysteries.

    I want to get like $10 gas in the tank. I'm sure the fuel pump is starved. Engine wanted to fire when I'd prime the carb.

    If I have no gasoline, I guess I'll just continue with the welding and ignore the engine for now.
    sasktrini
    sasktrini


    Number of posts : 2067
    Location : Saskatoon, SK, Canada
    Registration date : 2008-05-20

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    Post by sasktrini Sat Dec 05, 2009 8:28 pm

    Much better... took in my recycling, filled my jerry can, fired up the Ford, and it's good! That dual tank must leave some gas in the rear that cant get to the fuel pump. Put $10 in, definitely saw the needle drop while it ran. Anyway, ran steady for about a half hour, still noisy but not as bad. Still not oiling except at higher revs. I buttoned the engine back up, won't mess with it until the next oil change. I do think it will be fine, and possibly the Rislone will do it's job. Thanks for helping me through this for now... I'll pick it up again next oil change.
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    Post by Guest Sat Dec 05, 2009 9:27 pm

    cool brother glad to hear shes running......oiling up top at higher than idle is fine. what is the idle set at now and is it an at or man trans. also what brand and weight oil are you running.


    Last edited by bowtie56jw on Sat Dec 05, 2009 9:31 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : i kant spells)
    sasktrini
    sasktrini


    Number of posts : 2067
    Location : Saskatoon, SK, Canada
    Registration date : 2008-05-20

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    Post by sasktrini Sun Dec 06, 2009 12:02 am

    Think I bought a cheap Castrol, 10w30, Rislone additive like MMO, cheap filter. I only intend to run that for a short time considering how dirty the engine internals were, before the next oil change.

    Van's got an automatic tranny. As much as I enjoy driving three-on-the-tree, I'm not particularly fond of the clutch! Don't know what I'll truly enjoy more, 240 cid Big Six w/ auto or 170 cid Falcon Six w/ std column shift. Just have to get them driving and play around with them!
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    Post by Guest Sun Dec 06, 2009 12:26 am

    you might bump up the idle......not alot but some. you will know if its to much. keep up the good work brother. my opinion is change oil after a couple hundred miles of regular driving and go with valvoline 10 40 a good filter and a can of restore. keep us posted
    jeff
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    Post by Guest Tue Dec 15, 2009 10:41 pm

    hows the ole girl running?
    sasktrini
    sasktrini


    Number of posts : 2067
    Location : Saskatoon, SK, Canada
    Registration date : 2008-05-20

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    Post by sasktrini Wed Dec 16, 2009 3:55 pm

    Been parked in the garage for the last few weeks since our winter temperature took a jump off a cliff! I won't drive it until I finish the wiper and heater repairs, but I will run the engine for a while on the weekend.
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    Old Skool
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    Post by Old Skool Sat Jan 16, 2010 10:43 pm

    CAREFUL,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, READ,,, DO NOT MIX THE LIFTERS UP. If you do remove them, MAKE SURE you get the same one back in the spot it came out of OR YOU WILL FLATTEN YOUR CAM LOBES. Lifters and lobes have a wear pattern, and work togehter just fine, until you mix them up, new wear in, and bam,, flattened camshaft.
    The rockers are usually the problem in the first place. The lifters with a preset movement distance. When the rockers get worn, they no longer allow the oil to pass from the pushrod up through the hole and oil the valve. A continous tappet noise and no oil to lube the valve tip, usually means also low oil pressure. The big sixes are famous for low oil pressure. To be realistic, sorry to say, but looking at the pics and the problems, it is sounding like a rebuild coming soon???????
    Adjusting the valves is very easy. Get the engine heated up to operating temp, and pull the valve cover. I have a cover with holes drilled in it, to not allow oil going all over the place. Anyways,, back off each valve while it is running, just until you can hear them make noise. Then carefully re tighten and listen carefully until they JUST stop makiing noise. This is zero. The book calls for 1 1/2 turns, which is more than I go. An old racing trick that works here,, is to only go 3/4 of a turn on them. The lifters and all are already worn in, and also, if you happen to over rev, it limits the travel that the lifter can expand and avoid bent valves (racers trick) but still applies here. You can rough adjust the valves without it runnning, however,, nothing like while it is running. I usually keep sets of used rockers around, for the lack of oiling the valve tip problems..
    vic
    sasktrini
    sasktrini


    Number of posts : 2067
    Location : Saskatoon, SK, Canada
    Registration date : 2008-05-20

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    Post by sasktrini Sun Jan 17, 2010 5:02 pm

    I was careful putting it back together, as you said. Yeah, probably due for a rebuild soon, but I hope the rislone will improve the oil circulation while I drive. Really, I don't want to dig into this engine... I want to get my other van back together and on the road before I have to pull this one off for a rebuild and repaint. The 240 has decent power, just a little noisy and some black exhaust. It should last long enough until I get the other van done.
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    Old Skool
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    Post by Old Skool Sun Jan 17, 2010 5:09 pm

    Understand. When ever you fix something, it will put a strain on other things ready to go?? all about buying time,, me too
    vic
    sasktrini
    sasktrini


    Number of posts : 2067
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    Post by sasktrini Sat Apr 03, 2010 8:13 pm

    Well, I started driving the van around today (well, last night, but put several miles on it today). Once the engine gets up to temp, the oil light comes on at idle in gear, eventually if it runs long enough, at idle in park. Noise isn't so bad, but it's there. I'm hoping that if I let the rislone / oil circulate for a few days, it will work through everywhere it's supposed to and restore my oil circulation.

    If I go with the ATF soup on my next oil change, how does that go again?
    61econoline
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    Post by 61econoline Sat Apr 03, 2010 8:52 pm

    oil light on is not good can you hook a mechanical gauge? might be looking at needing some new bearings.I was down to almost 2 psi at idle in my 289 dropped the pan and installed new STD size rod bearings around a year ago have 20 psi now at idle 40psi at 55 mph.just buying time till i get my other motor finished.
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    Post by Guest Sat Apr 03, 2010 9:50 pm

    Corey I think your flogging a dead horse on that engine. I get the impression it needs major surgery to recover. I think you will need to pull it and rebuild it.
    I have a motor sitting in the back of the white truck. It was suspose to run when I got the truck. but I think it is a smaller engine.
    I would look for another 240 or 300 transplant for now so you can get some summer fun driving.
    I don't have one here, Sorry.
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sat Apr 03, 2010 10:11 pm

    Low oil pressure is too much circulation,,,,,,if you want that horse to live a little longer you need thicker oil,,,,,,maybe some STP...........
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    Post by Guest Sat Apr 03, 2010 10:15 pm

    But when there is too much wear between everything. More room for that oil to flow through. Yes thicker oil will help for the short term til he can get a motor built or the coin to rebuild the one he has.
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sat Apr 03, 2010 11:10 pm

    You told him right,,,,,,,,,the horse is just about dead,,,,,,but he still wants to ride it,,,,,I think he is better off with the heavier oil in it than the ATF he wants to put in it ,,,,,,,,,,
    sasktrini
    sasktrini


    Number of posts : 2067
    Location : Saskatoon, SK, Canada
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    Post by sasktrini Sun Apr 04, 2010 12:03 pm

    Thanks... the van actually runs real good! If I can avoid doing an engine rebuild until after I get the pink van running, I would prefer it. I'll consider a swap, which I would like to find a strong 300! Engine doesn't knock, so there is hope that the bearing tolerances are not too great. I'll try thicker oil.
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sun Apr 04, 2010 12:35 pm

    You want to get as much oil pressure as you can,,,,,,those worn bearings let it leak out into the pan and the pressure gets lower the farther the oil has to travel. I think the rod bearings will be the problem,,,,,,,if that pressure gets too low, then the bearing will spin and the rod might even break and go out the side of the engine,,,,,,,so,,,,,,,I think it's time to Baby your Baby,,,,,,don't make that engine work too hard,,,,,,,there is some kind of HIGH Mileage oil out there,,,,,,,maybe some 40w,,,,,,
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    Post by Old Skool Sun Apr 04, 2010 1:09 pm

    STP, BANANNA PEELS AND AND OAT MEAL, BON-AMI DOWN THE CARB TO SEAT THE RINGS, TWO BALL PEAN HAMMERS FOR A VALVE JOB, HMMMM ,,LOL.....
    Big sixes are famous for no oil pressure, and will run when the gauge says 5psi, its gonna go,, just a matter of time. Put some STP in it, thats what its famous for. Also, known for worn rockers not allowing the oil to pass to the valves.

    vic
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    Post by Guest Sun Apr 04, 2010 11:22 pm

    Corey I just put a 66 ford truck 300 motor on my scrap metal pile. It is seized from 20 some year sitting. You can have it to take and get rebuilt for your van. If you want.
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    Post by ChevyVanMan1 Mon Apr 05, 2010 12:00 pm

    I know I'll get flamed for this yet since hydraulic lifters are hydraulic they really do best on hydraulic oil--most available--transmission fluid. I'm not suggesting you run auto trans fluid in your engine permanently. Just change it a few times with filter to clean up sludge and pump up the lifters. I don't know why but auto trans fluid really has a lot more detergent effect than regular motor oil. I've had good luck with it and never blew up an engine. Of course, if you do I am not replacing yours ;-)

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