65 w/230 6cyl has run on issues

My 65 has a 230with a rebuilt motor with 1500 miles on it. Carb to pan rebuilt or new. It runs about 210 at 60mph. Timing was set at 8 adv at idle. Vacuum off or on made no difference to timing. Plugs were champion T405 with brown coloring, but not dark. No excessive oil consumption. PO put electric fuel pump and Mr.Gasket regulator. Set at 3.5, 3, or 2.5lbs made no difference. Inside the vent tube of the carb looks a little damp. Running factory aircleaner with new element.

Last night I swapped over to HEI from 81, and went to autolite 404 plugs, those are 2 ranges cooler, and recessed a fair bit because of it. Van sounded better and started great this morning. But still dieseled when I shut it off at work.
Has gotten between 11 and 12mpg, but the plugs don't look sooty like it's super rich. I'm at a loss, and this run-on crap is embarrassing. What sort of temp should these run at anyway?
AM I looking at too rich or too lean??

leave 404 plugs in!- when u r shutting the key OFF= are you letting it idle for a few seconds before turning key off? whats happening is this - the internal cylinder areas are HOT! allowing fuel mixture to continue to be ignited - yes -with key off & not firing spark plugs.!! recheck timing with vaccumn disconnected! then recheck with connected. Differences=? also - can depend on what grade fuel ur running too!! yet ill bet its timing!

Timing never changed from connected to not connected and plugged. Too advanced? Nothing says that little tab was put back on exactly where it needed to be, there's room to move slightly I'm sure.

What's normal operating temp?

Ok, more info. It's the stock alt, I'll check the throttle opening vs/ idle. Tell me, how do I set the timing by vacuum? I have a vacuum gauge. I'm unsure if the carb is stock, it does have a manual choke but looks like it was the bimetal spring against the manifold type judging by the metal arm just lying there. Tonight when I got home, I let it idle while I checked for gas leaks. Found out the distributer needs an o-ring, some oil leaking out of there. It did not run-on, and the temp was at 210 when I shut it off, outside air was 50.

Run-on issues aside, does having an air deflector like the one shown in the manuals do anything to keep the motor cooler??

Awesome! Thanks for the info, will do tomorrow and get back. I'm sure the carb is a rebuild, I have 5 of them, but it doesn't look like the one on my 194 or 250 that are factory. I don't have the air deflector, nor does my 64. I do have a plasma cutter, sheet metal brake and some 14gauge steel. But nothing to make louvers. Are they needed for sure?

,,,,and do you got the 160 degree thermostat in it,,,,,,,,,,

I don't know what thermostat is in it. A 160?? Really??

I have a few electric fans like that from derby days, can fab that too.

I have the carter carb.

I got called into work today, so van work will have to wait till tonight!

You know how it is often said "the simplest solution is often overlooked"? The manifold stud that's between the rear of the intake and exhaust manifold was loose and had allowed the clamp to turn. Massive air leak. Straightened that out, checked the rest and got a reading of 18". Manual says worn valve guides, as the needle wiggles between 18 and 19 and goes steady with some throttle, climbing higher. Also swapped in a 160 thermostat. There was a 195 in it. So I expect to stay in the 180 range now. I have a fan ready to add when it warms up outside.

Hope I didn't burn a valve running lean on 5 and 6.

Also, anyone know if the hei uses an o-ring? I didn't check. It's leaking there and the original distributor has a paper gasket. Use both??

Thanks for all the help guys!

paper

Will do. Thanks Donivan, I really appreciate all the help.

Well, it was great and cool all the way to work. The way home into a steady 25mph wind was not. It hit 210 again, so I slowed down to 55 and cranked the heat. That brought the temp to 200. Air temp was 50ish. Got home, it cooled quickly. I rigged up a deflector (no pics, I'm embarrassed) because I didn't have enough of that strap metal with holes to mount the fan. Got the paper gasket for the distributor as well. Starter fluid can went dry, so no testing for more leaks, but it's running so well I doubt there's anymore.
Will update again tomorrow, or wed if it rains.

Another fun and frustrating day! I had a tail wind to and from work, so I never got over 185 going to and 192ish coming home. But I rolled into the elevator to get the tires mounted and I left a puddle of coolant. And a nice little trail back onto the road and up the highway. That's with a new 16lb cap. 160 + 48 = 208 before puke. Right? Maybe it was a tad over filled. It stopped and when cool was about an inch below the filler neck.

I ripped out my plywood deflector and put in a radiator fan from a civic. Using a hand drill sucks. As in MANUAL hand powered drill. Left the power drill at the factory. Dope. We'll see tomorrow if it works.

A good radiator is the #1 piece of equipment a van needs,,,,,,and a 3 row of tubes is the best,,,,so what you got???? Is it new,,,,,has it been taken apart and rodded out?????

Radiator looks stock to me, two core, but not the original one. Not all crusty or oxidized.

,,,until you get it flow tested,,,,,you don't know if, or how many tubes are clogged,,,,,,do you have one of those temperature guns to see if there are cold spots in the tubes or take it to a radiator shop and see if they can test it,,,,,,,

I don't have one. I do have a certified thermometer that's digital and hand held. Just have to be careful not to poke the radiator.
Something I forgot in my original post, the van has a multi blade flex fan, on a spacer about 1/2" from the rad. And no shroud.

Should I ditch the flex fan for a factory blade? Anyone even have a shroud?

get a shroud!! or make one - easy to do. im using radiators i bought on ebay- 200 bux & new alu. ones 4 cores they also sell shrouds also

Do you have a link for the rad or shroud? Or the sellers handle? Is the shroud 2 piece? How about a picture?

Is it those universal 3" wide ones?