by ,,,,that warranty of yours will be expiring soon while you keep lollygagging,,,,,,
+10
mikeysly
vanner68
Digz
donivan65
Big W
ScottyJones
dix
HandiVanMan
RodStRace
sandyvan
14 posters
Taking A Breather
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12246
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
sandyvan- Number of posts : 526
Location : San Diego, CA
Registration date : 2011-03-13
I still got 65 days. Now I need to go take a nap....
Twinpilot001- Number of posts : 6186
Location : spokane ,Wa.
Registration date : 2009-09-28
The repair sleve doesnt allow oil to flow out due to whats called a =laybrinth seal!! rotating forces the oil to stay inside due to cyntrifical force .
64chevy- Number of posts : 364
Location : Rocket Ranch Lompoc, CA
Registration date : 2008-05-18
If you're passing on this 250 I'm going to check it out since it's right in my backyard.sandyvan wrote:ScottyJones wrote:http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/pts/3265117717.html
This looks like a nice deal if you wanna dump some more money into yout van
And only $200 LESS than the one I already bought! :-(
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12246
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
,,,,,,you better be on your way to get it Joe,,,,
sandyvan- Number of posts : 526
Location : San Diego, CA
Registration date : 2011-03-13
I already picked one up so be my guest!
sandyvan- Number of posts : 526
Location : San Diego, CA
Registration date : 2011-03-13
OK, so I've been getting a lot done, at least on SandyVan Time. Rented a hoist and got the engine on a stand so I could do the compression testing. Had to buy a new starter as believe it or not, the one in the van would not fit this 1975 block. At least I have a good one for the swap. After about 287 e-mails between Donivan and myself to troubleshoot a sticky valve and maximize the readings we pronounced the new engine "good". Tested compression on the old engine still in the SandyVan and it has a cylinder worse then the new one. It appears to be in the head so even that will not be kept as a spare.
So I started pulling stuff off this week for clean-up and paint. Pulled the water pump and timing cover tonight - think I should keep that water pump???
Here is a teaser of the color scheme I'm working on, the block will get a new coat of Chevy Orange. After all the waiting and diagnostics on the compression I wanted some instant gratification so I started with an easy part. The valve cover was relatively clean and I even worked out a dent in the top before painting.
So I started pulling stuff off this week for clean-up and paint. Pulled the water pump and timing cover tonight - think I should keep that water pump???
Here is a teaser of the color scheme I'm working on, the block will get a new coat of Chevy Orange. After all the waiting and diagnostics on the compression I wanted some instant gratification so I started with an easy part. The valve cover was relatively clean and I even worked out a dent in the top before painting.
64chevy- Number of posts : 364
Location : Rocket Ranch Lompoc, CA
Registration date : 2008-05-18
Was a sticky valve the reason compression was low in that cylinder? How did you free it? Just curious since I have an used engine that has sat for awhile I'm trying to bring back to life with the same problem.
Given the looks of that water pump are you concerned about clogged internal cooling passages? Or do the water pumps always look worse then inside the block.
Given the looks of that water pump are you concerned about clogged internal cooling passages? Or do the water pumps always look worse then inside the block.
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12246
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
He had 150 psi on most cylinders and 90 on #1,,,,,since adding oil to the cylinder did not raise the reading, I had him undo the rocker and tap on the valve spring to snap the valves open and shut to get them to seat better,,,,when an engine sits, some valves are always open, so they could get some build up on the seats, so tapping them could clean them up a little to seat better,,,and the reading went up to 120 ,,,,,
sandyvan- Number of posts : 526
Location : San Diego, CA
Registration date : 2011-03-13
Don't forget the crowbar. Don also suggested I remove the rocker arm, put a large flat washer under the adjustment nut, then use a crowbar (gently!) to make sure the valves were going up and down. Tapping didn't seem to do much that I could see since the springs are so strong. I think it was a combination of valve adjustment and the crowbar that got the compression up from 90. I've read where the engine should be warmed up for higher readings so I'm keeping my fingers crossed it's not really too far off the other cylinders.
RE the water pump, I had the same thought when I pulled it off, but inside looks pretty normal. I don't even know what all that build up is, didn't try to chip any off. But I was going to put on a new pump anyway.
RE the water pump, I had the same thought when I pulled it off, but inside looks pretty normal. I don't even know what all that build up is, didn't try to chip any off. But I was going to put on a new pump anyway.
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12246
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
,,,,,,,I'm thinking that tapping on the valve springs with a hammer will move them,,,,,,unless,,,you spend your day tapping on computer keys,,,,,
RodStRace- Number of posts : 3046
Location : Chino Valley
Registration date : 2010-01-21
The water pump sludge is from sitting.
If it runs on a regular basis the back plate is spinning, stuff won't stick!
I would suggest 2 things; replace the freeze plugs and replace the block drain plug toward the back with a radiator petcock. That way, you can easily drain the coolant in the block during regular maintenance.
The back of the freeze plugs are going to look like that water pump at best.
If you feel really motivated, you can drop the pan too and clean out any sludge.
Also look for any indication the timing gear or other parts are wearing.
Best of luck getting it all back and running!
If it runs on a regular basis the back plate is spinning, stuff won't stick!
I would suggest 2 things; replace the freeze plugs and replace the block drain plug toward the back with a radiator petcock. That way, you can easily drain the coolant in the block during regular maintenance.
The back of the freeze plugs are going to look like that water pump at best.
If you feel really motivated, you can drop the pan too and clean out any sludge.
Also look for any indication the timing gear or other parts are wearing.
Best of luck getting it all back and running!
64chevy- Number of posts : 364
Location : Rocket Ranch Lompoc, CA
Registration date : 2008-05-18
There's a block drain? Never knew that. I'll have to look for it.
Tried moving the rockers aside and tapping on the top of the valves last night but it didn't seem to do any good. Probably didn't tap hard enough since I'm only use to tapping on computer keys. But I'll get a bigger sledge and try again and also try the crowbar trick. Since this is a old 230 in unknown condition no love lost and if it doesn't work out it's off to the machine shop to become a 250.
RodStRace- Number of posts : 3046
Location : Chino Valley
Registration date : 2010-01-21
See the 2 bolt bosses a third of the way up toward the back? I'm using the silver valve cover picture a few posts back as a visual guide.
Right behind those is a plug. It's been a while since I've messed with a straight 6 chevy, but I believe that's the block drain. If not, it's an oil gallery plug, but there isn't any oil gallery on that side.
I like to put one of these in so it's easy to drain the coolant for replacement or engine work.
They are also pipe thread, so they go right in.
Right behind those is a plug. It's been a while since I've messed with a straight 6 chevy, but I believe that's the block drain. If not, it's an oil gallery plug, but there isn't any oil gallery on that side.
I like to put one of these in so it's easy to drain the coolant for replacement or engine work.
They are also pipe thread, so they go right in.
sandyvan- Number of posts : 526
Location : San Diego, CA
Registration date : 2011-03-13
64chevy wrote:
There's a block drain? Never knew that. I'll have to look for it.
Tried moving the rockers aside and tapping on the top of the valves last night but it didn't seem to do any good. Probably didn't tap hard enough since I'm only use to tapping on computer keys. But I'll get a bigger sledge and try again and also try the crowbar trick. Since this is a old 230 in unknown condition no love lost and if it doesn't work out it's off to the machine shop to become a 250.
The problem I had was that the springs pop back up so fast I couldn't tell how much the valves were moving. I could tell it was moving them but how much? 1/8", 1/4", etc. it just wasn't clear. Maybe I shoulda used my Swingline stapler on them. Tapping them may have done the trick but with the crowbar I could see the full range of movement. There was also a bit of trial and error on adjusting the valves so hopefully it'll be better dialed in after an adjustment while it's running.
Rod, yes, I'm going to drop the pan so I can give it a good cleaning and paint and was planning to put in a new oil pump while it's easily accessible. The timing gears looked good, at least to my untrained eye. Might as well do the freeze plugs, that is pretty simple? Another thing I'm going to need to do is swap out the oil check assembly as this motor has a long one that would hit the doghouse.
Last edited by sandyvan on Thu Sep 27, 2012 10:12 am; edited 1 time in total
sandyvan- Number of posts : 526
Location : San Diego, CA
Registration date : 2011-03-13
RodStRace wrote:See the 2 bolt bosses a third of the way up toward the back? I'm using the silver valve cover picture a few posts back as a visual guide.
Right behind those is a plug. It's been a while since I've messed with a straight 6 chevy, but I believe that's the block drain. If not, it's an oil gallery plug, but there isn't any oil gallery on that side.
I like to put one of these in so it's easy to drain the coolant for replacement or engine work.
They are also pipe thread, so they go right in.
Yeah I saw that guy the other night and figured it was some type of plug.
RodStRace- Number of posts : 3046
Location : Chino Valley
Registration date : 2010-01-21
sandyvan wrote: Might as well do the freeze plugs, that is pretty simple? Another thing I'm going to need to do is swap out the oil check assembly as this motor has a long one that would hit the doghouse.
Take a big screwdriver and tap in the bottom edge. It should sink in and rotate, like a louver window. Try not to simply beat it all the way into the coolant area. Then grab a pair of slip-joint pliers and grab the edge sticking out on top and using the head of the pliers as a fulcrum point against the bottom of the hole, pry the plug out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzsnOEO8BL0
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12246
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
The idea of the hammering on the valve springs is just to get them to snap shut a few times to break loose anything that might between the valve face and its seat,,,,just as long as they move will will dislodge anything that might be negatively affecting the compression reading,,,,it's just a test,,,put a Phillips screwdriver in the dipstick tubes and clamp some vice grips over it,,,,twist the dipstick tube up and out,,,,,hammer the Phillips screwdriver down to put the real one in
sandyvan- Number of posts : 526
Location : San Diego, CA
Registration date : 2011-03-13
RodStRace wrote:
Take a big screwdriver and tap in the bottom edge. It should sink in and rotate, like a louver window. Try not to simply beat it all the way into the coolant area. Then grab a pair of slip-joint pliers and grab the edge sticking out on top and using the head of the pliers as a fulcrum point against the bottom of the hole, pry the plug out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzsnOEO8BL0
I looked inside the big hole for the water pump with my flashlight and the back of the first plug looks clean, as does everything else I can see from there so I think I'll leave the plugs alone.
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12246
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
So are you bringing the SandyVan to the car show Sunday? I will bring a spare Harmonic Balancer in case yours falls off,,,,,,or you might just find a bunch of vans blocking your cul de sac after the show,,,,,
sandyvan- Number of posts : 526
Location : San Diego, CA
Registration date : 2011-03-13
Oh shoot, thanks for the reminder. I think I can make it - what time is it? Are you in the show or just meeting up near by?
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12246
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
I plan on being in the parking lot noon to 2pm and have invited the new guys and the regular guys to show up,,,,and there is a Car Show going on next to the parking lot,,,,,,
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12246
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
,,,,,,,men at work,,,,,,,
sandyvan- Number of posts : 526
Location : San Diego, CA
Registration date : 2011-03-13
You took a picture of the wrong side of the sign - it's supposed to say "FOR SALE"
