65 Falcon Van Mustang2 IFS Conversion

The 1965 Falcon Van was purchased over 2 years ago in Spartanburg, SC and trailered home to Danielsville, GA where it "rested" in the barn (with other Fords) until I could find the time to start on it.  The previous owner was a self-employed plumber who intended to use it for business but had a dog house fire which destroyed those plans.  

An owner before him had installed an early 80s 302 with C4 and didn't modify the stock crossmember for the V-8, which had the engine sitting high in the dog house and probably contributed to conditions which led to the fire.

I've restored two Airstream travel trailers, two boats (I/O, outboard), and a 73 CJ-5 but never a van, although we did have a 1969 Ford Club Wagon growing up in the 70s.  (With 9 children of our own, we've owned (until very recently) a 15 passenger E-350 7.3 PSD for over 16 years but now that they've grown up....need to downsize.)

Having started the conversion, I'll try to share as much info as possible (and narrated pics) that will be helpful for others who may be on the fence about whether to do the conversion.  That includes sharing a few mistakes along the way, as much as I'd prefer to forget them.

Big thanks and shout out to Armyof6, who's IFS thread on this forum was very informative and insightful.   "Navyof11"  doesn't quite have the same ring to it (6 years USN) so I'll keep "pizzachop".  

Below are pics from the day it came home.

Once I had had the van safely home and off the trailer, I took stock of what I'd purchased.

Overall, I was pleased with my purchase and especially pleased that the interior trim pieces were included as well as some of the window rubber (I'm still not sure exactly how much).

I unloaded everything and took a few pics.

After having the van home for a few weeks, I did some research, joined a Facebook group and learned a few things.  

One of the first things I learned was that whoever swapped the 302 into my van did not modify it or purchase a modified crossmember from Vic (in CA). It was sitting too high and 1" spacer bars were bolted in between the crossmember mounting brackets and the van "frame".

While ordering a properly modified/manufactured crossmember was an option, with somewhat decent welding and fabricating skills, I was pretty sure I could make it.

I supported the engine and unbolted/removed the crossmember and took it inside.

Then I sw

I cut off the crossmember mounting "perches" for motor mounts and re-attached the crossmember directly to the van "frame rails" (no spacer).

I then lowered the engine to what seemed to be the correct height based on the pics I'd seen of modified crossmembers for V-8 engines.  The yoke seems to wrap around the back of the oil pan sump nicely so I did the same.

I swapped  perches (left on right/right on left) bolted them to engine motor mounts (single bolt) and tack welded them onto the crossmember.  Then I removed the cross member, took it inside, and probably made a few very small adjustments for symmetry and re-fitted once more.

Once I was satisfied, I permanently welded them with the Lincoln AC-225 and re-installed.

Front of engine probably sits 3" lower and is no longer looks like a Jeep 258 (which does sit higher in front).

I did have to replace the oil filter with a shorter version as a result of the crossmember blocking access to the larger one.  Not a big deal, and some relocate it altogether...but something to remember.



The 302 now sits correctly (although the floor opening/dog house definitely needs enlarging).



Next up......IFS converson!

Fast forward (2-3 years) and I'm finally starting work on the van project.

Added concrete to center bay of barn and acquired a lift which will make the job a LOT easier! (unit is completely connected and securely fastened above the loft floor, I will hopefully anchor posts in concrete soon.  The lift cannot fall without taking the entire barn with it....which I don't believe will happen)

Found some vintage slotted mags on fb marketplace with good tires so the 80s Lincoln-Mercury turbos are gone (good riddance)

Time to remove the front axle.....

Front axle removal was pretty straight forward.  Remove spring shackle bolts, brake lines, steering arm, shocks, and sway bar.  (can't really remember much else)

Easiest and most fun day I've had...

This post documents my first mistake.

IFS crossmember must be mounted so that the SPINDLE is centered in wheel well (height is taken into account but that will be covered later).

I determined AXLE CENTERLINE based on the original straight axle location, evidently missing the fact that the stock spindle is about 2" back from axle.

This obviously caused a problem once control arms were attached, spindles installed, and wheels mounted.

Based on my newfound knowledge, I determined correct axle/spindle centerline to be 8-1/2" forward of engine crossmember mounting bracket and 25-1/4" aft of the front leaf spring shackle bracket (in case you don't have the "big six" crossmember)

Note that the picture is taken after the fact. I've already notched the van frame rail to accommodate the "slip in " subframe and upper control arm cross bolt.

(I don't think I took any pictures of the wheel sitting 2-1/2" forward in wheel well and if I did, I probably deleted them.)

In hindsight, given the amount of frame rail removed by notching, this process may not have been necessary.  (but I didn't know that at the time).

The axle bump stop bracket is secured to van frame rail with about 5 spotwelds per side and rather than destroy the frame rail, I figured I'd use the plasma cutter and "surgically" remove them.

They came off relatively easily.  But again, given how much notching was required, not sure it was really necessary.

Probably worth pointing out that my plan was a slightly lowered stance in front (1") with standard spindles (not drop spindles) so there was no wheel well or floor cutting necessary to accommodate shock towers/upper control arms.

If a person wanted to "slam" the front end, the original van rails would probably have to be cut out completely.

Before doing any major damage, I tacked some channel together to simulate a subframe and C-clamped it to the inside of the van frame rails just to get an idea of where everything would sit.

Standard Mustang2 IFS geometry has lower control arm pivot hole 3-1/2" below axle spindle centerline so determining correct crossmember mounting height involves knowing your overall wheel/tire diameter divided by two minus 3.5" and that is how far the pivot hole should be from the ground.  (Maybe add 1/4" to ground to hole distance to account for tire flattening under load)

In my case, I think it was around 9" (14" wheels on 70R tires).

(Follow the crossmember installation instructions from manufacturer.)

I set the crossmember so that lower pivot holes were prescribed distance from ground and then lowered the van down onto jack stands to desired ride height, which for me was a slightly lowered front stance (maybe an inch lower).  This gave me an idea of where the cross member/subframe would be mounted.

Since I purchased my crossmember on ebay with no documentation, I followed a chart from a Heidt's guide in determining dimensions for 60.5" track width crossmember and for whatever reason, the 37.5" shock tower hole mounting position did not result in plumb spindles once all was assembled so I had to re-locate shock towers outward about 5/8" on both sides. (I will address this in more detail in a later post.)

This could have been avoided had I assembled the entire IFS on the bench with spindles mounted and control arms level.  But I began work before the control arms arrived, trusting measurements that in the end didn't work for me.

Much gnashing of teeth over that one....

I, for one appreciate you documenting your mistakes as well as progress. I learn as much if not more from mistakes (my own or someone else's) as successes. JM2C.

Thanks,
Jim

jrdunn96 wrote:I, for one appreciate you documenting your mistakes as well as progress.  I learn as much if not more from mistakes (my own or someone else's) as successes.  JM2C.

Thanks,
Jim

I agree....much better to learn from others' mistakes!

I was born in Ponca City BTW

Definitely no turning back after this step.

Once the subframe height was determined, I notched the "frame" to accommodate upper arm cross shafts and to provide an opening to insert subframe mounting "L" brackets.

My original notch (based on incorrect axle centerline determination) had to be moved aft, all the way to 3/8" from engine crossmember mount.

Realistically, the notch need only be 15" to accommodate the horizontal length of the "L" bracket (to be inserted into "frame") and this will also provide at least 12" for cross shafts/alignment bolts).  

Cross shaft nut clearance is important and I found that in moving my entire IFS aft 2.5"(to correct axle centerline), driver side cross shaft nut was restricted by vertical length of "L" bracket...so I had to make a modification to the face of it.



From the front (lower control arm pivot hole approx 9.5" from ground)

From the passenger side

From the inside looking out at passenger side

When notching the van's "frame" rail, the inside of the frame rail caught my attention and it seemed like the most efficient way to mount a rear subframe attachment was to insert it into the frame rail.......so that's what I did.

The original "L" brackets in the first pic were based on the incorrect axle centerline so I had to modify them to work with the correct axle position later.

The horizontal section (including vertical) was about 16"....which can be inserted up into notched frame and then slid aft (over engine mounting bracket)

Once modified (vertical "L" length rotated 90 degrees), the "L" bracket is probably 14" long, with 12" fully inserted into frame and secured with two 3/8"bolts from the bottom, thru the van frame rail, into a backing plate with 3/8" nut welded inside the "L" bracket.

Hopefully the pictures will explain better.

(Note: The removable aspect of this subframe has proven valuable as I have had to remove/install, repeat ad nauseum. It will remove for rotisserie but welded in place for good once bodywork/paint is finished.)

Original "L" bracket design (disregard incorrect axle centerline 11" )



"L" bracket modified (to move axle centerline back 2.5")





Modified "L" brackets installation/bolted in

PizzaChop wrote:

jrdunn96 wrote:I, for one appreciate you documenting your mistakes as well as progress.  I learn as much if not more from mistakes (my own or someone else's) as successes.  JM2C.

Thanks,
Jim

I agree....much better to learn from others' mistakes!  

I was born in Ponca City BTW

Well, a big Oklahoma HOWDY! to you. (Sorry, I don't see a redneck emoji.)

Jim

Almost like Christmas in February when my control arms arrived from Full Tilt Streetrods.

I ordered the standard set up for coil springs (coilover or airbags were an option), some shocks, and a SBF engine mounting kit.  (I ended up returning the engine mounting kit as my "subframe inside of frame" method will allow me to use the existing engine crossmember support.



With the crossmember on the bench, I mounted the control arms to make sure everything fit and I did have to cut off about 1/4' of the rear lower pivot bushing for a snug fit of the control arms.  I failed to do a very basic but important check at this point which is:

MOUNT SPINDLES AND VERIFY THAT THEY ARE PLUMB  (WITH CROSSMEMBER/CONTROL ARMS LEVEL AND CROSS SHAFTS AT MID-SLOT ON TOWER   (Some wailing and gnashing of teeth over this a few days later)



Once satisfied with fit, I disassembled, reattached subframe to van, and reinstalled the control arms onto the crossmember so I could lower van until control arms were level to determine if desired ride height had been achieved.
.


Once wheels were mounted, I realized immediately that the axle/spindle centerline was too far forward and my entire subframe would have to be moved rearward about 2.5"....which was pretty much all I could do without completely re-engineering the subframe rails/mounting points with "L" brackets.  (This was a dark day. )

Rather than relocate the crossmember and shock towers 2.5" back on subframe rails (cutting/grinding/welding) I chose to remove approximately 3" from the rear of the subframe rails and modify the "L" brackets, rotating the vertical section (which bolts to subframe rail) 90 degrees, allowing the subframe rail to mount further back which produced an acceptable/spindle centerline.

I did not take any pictures of the wheel sitting forward in the wheel well or rubbing the front edge of the fender well.  (Too traumatizing)  I yanked the wheels off and immediately set to corrective action.

But the bolt up design was proving its usefulness as I quickly removed the six 3/8" bolts attaching the subframe to the van.  

After a good cry (not really...but sure felt like it), I set to work modifying the "L" brackets to allow the entire subframe to move rearward 2.5".

(I did consider removing and relocating the crossmember and shock towers for about 5 minutes until logic/reasoning set in and I realized shortening subframe rails and shifting rearward would be a lot easier...especially considering that crossmember/shock towers were already firmly welded in place and level/plumb, etc.) (Had a surprise coming on that
soon!)  

As depicted above in a previous post, I cut the vertical leg off the "L" bracket and re-oriented it 90 degrees, which required notching so that the subframe rail could slip back 2.5"

The pictures show the outside and inside view of modified "L" bracket as mounted to van.  The subframe rail front mounting bracket had to be moved forward to reach the original sway bar mounts and this will require some subframe extension/reinforcement/gusseting which will be done at a later date.



I welded mounting brackets (angles) on the lower vertical section and installed backing plates (3/8" nut welded)  inside the subframe rail so the subframe could be easily installed/removed with 3/8" body bolts.  (I had no idea how important the EZ-install/remove function would be at that point)

NOTE:  This entire episode could have been avoided had I performed a critical "check" which having failed to do, resulted in another "painful lesson" which I now share with you.  
 The experienced will have a good laugh, but those who've yet to do this....take heed!  

Now that I had successfully moved the entire subframe/crossmember rearward 2.5" by modifying "L" brackets in rear, extending notch in van frame rail almost to engine mount bracket, and lining up forward mounting bolt on front angle bracket with rear sway bar hole.....it should be smooth sailing.

Except it wasn't.....

Once control arms/spindles/wheels were installed and van lowered to ride height, it was immediately apparent that I had a significant negative camber situation which could not be corrected with cross shaft bolt adjustment.

When initially welding towers and crossmember to rails, I had followed the Heidt's guide for my generic ebay crossmember/shock towers which specified 37.5" span between shock tower holes (29-30" crossmember, 60" track).  Puzzled, I called Clay at Full Tilt Streetrods (control arm source) and described my dilemma.

He explained (and I later noted it was included in their instructions) that the shock tower mounting width MUST produce plumb spindles with cross shaft bolts at mid slot, regardless of any other prescribed distance between towers.

The answer was so simple....just cut off and re-locate the shock towers! (after I had already permanently welded them in place).  Of course we know nothing is permanent with a plasma cutter and/or cut off wheel, so I once again (lost count) removed wheels/spindles/control arms and then removed subframe assembly from van.  (The bolt-on mounting method was really paying off HUGE dividends at this point!)  

After cutting off one shock tower, I re-assembled the entire IFS on a bench, leveled control arms, and moved the tower out until the spindle was plumb (both crossmember & arms level).  
It required about 3/4" outward to produce plumb spindle face at with cross shaft bolts at center slot so after tacking one side (making sure it was level side to side and kept the rearward slope of 3/8" front/back), I cut off and relocated the other side to match.  (I filled in gap created from outward re-location with 5/16" steel)

Now satisfied that I finally had the IFS the way it needed to be, I stripped it of control arms, bolted it back up, and installed arms/spindles.    Lowered it down and I had zero camber with cross shaft bolts at mid-slots in towers.

This is what it looked like before shock towers were re-located outward


This is after

I'll spare the reader the details but after transitioning into the steering rack mounting, I learned a few things and wound up changing my lower control arms to facilitate my new direction.

The rack is a generic power rack (never used) that I picked up off craigslist with a few other Mustang 2 items (spindles, rotors, coil springs)

Below are screenshots of ebay purchases...as links tend to go bad

The steering box and lower shaft I used were from an Izusu Rodeo

The power brake booster/master cylinder I used was for a 55-59 Chevy truck

A few more parts purchases before we start with modifications.....

Generic 28" tilt column



Steering coupler for column/box



"Ford-in-a-Ford" lower control arms from Full Tilt Streetrods (Grand Jct, CO)

With cab forward layout, the Mustang2 steering rack must be flipped so that steering input is facing forward rather than back.  This necessitates either moving and re-orienting existing mounts on cross member or fabricating new mounts altogether.

I chose to cut off and re-orient my rack mounts.  Unfortunately, too many times to keep count.

I was also wary of the steering rod path from rack input to new steering box location and the close proximity to new 7" brake booster (I'd done enough mock up to realize this was going to be challenging).

Thinking I'd need a rack extension (turns out I didn't...more on that later), I called up Clay at Full Tilt Streetrods to discuss an extension and he repeated something he'd said before in our first conversation (before ordering the IFS tubular control arms).  Specifically, that he preferred to move the rack mounts over and insert the extensions to one side (usually driver side).

The lightbulb went on inside my head (happens sometimes) and I realized if I could move the rack the other way (to passenger side) it would put steering input closer to the center and create an easier path around the brake booster.

The only problem was, with the lower control arms I started with, the control arm pivot on the front of crossmember wouldn't allow a full shift (which for me, ended up being about 1.5" to the passenger side).




I told him the Ford-in-a-Ford arms (which I almost ordered at start) would be perfect and he offered to exchange them.  THANK YOU CLAY!

Polished up the conventional control arms, shipped them back, and received new "Ford-in-a-Ford" control arms which fit perfectly (once I cut out the bushings inside the crossmember-not fun).

Centered rack shaft (steering at 0) and tacked rack mounts approximately 1.5" toward passenger side and tilted more upward so that rack input has slight (10-15 degrees) forward & up orientation.

Now I was ready to tackle the brake booster/steering connection path issue.

As a complete newbie to Mustang2 IFS details, I didn't really understand the whole width/extension thing and never thought to remove the boots from my generic craiglist purchase power rack.

When I did remove the boots, it revealed a 2" inch extension on both sides which turns out was exactly the length I needed for the 60" track width.

The standard rack with outer tie rod extensions should measure 45.5".

With the two 2" extensions, mine measures just under 50".

If I had not already had the 2" extensions on the rack, I could have purchased one 4" extension and accomplished the same thing.  Either way, I'm very happy with the rack shift and the additional clearance with the brake booster.

 I was able to install Moog tie rod ends with approximately 1.25" of threads inside, which should be sufficient.  (Longer threaded tie rod ends are available but this is what I used:

I located the under floor power brake booster/master cylinder/brake pedal in the same general location as the original, although the master cylinder ends up being a bit further back from original inspection hole.  Not pictured, but I found the original inspection hole to be an ideal mock up attachment point using a small C-clamp and another flat piece of metal above.  This helped in figuring out where/how to attach the bracket, line up pedal, etc.
 
First, I had to make a few modifications:  

I shortened the brake pedal length by about 2" and cut off another couple of inches with the goofy looking brake pad.  Also shaved a little of the metal around the pivot point for floor clearance.  

I cut off the 3rd mounting point tab on top so the bracket could be mounted close to flush with the bottom of the floor.  (Not much room for the master cylinder lid but it fits)

Next I drilled a 3rd hole in the bracket (to make up for the one I cut off) and welded three 1/2" bushings so the bracket could be mounted 1/2" away from van frame rail (for 7" brake booster).  I also made a backing plate with 3 nuts welded to it to slip inside frame rail to mount the bracket to.

Here are a couple of pics of the brake booster assembly installed

While removing the original steering box/column was fun, devising a way to mount the new Izusu box looks like even more fun.

While shifting the steering rack over toward the passenger side definitely makes it easier, I've still got to fab some sort of mounting plate that keeps the new box at the right position to connect to the new column above and the rack input below (via the Izusu lower steering shaft w/ rag joint).

I secured the new column to the original mount in front of dash with a canvas strap and connected the 1" DD column to the 1"DD x 5/8"-36 SS coupling I had already forcefully (not too forcefully) installed on the column end of the steering box.

(Note:   If I had it to do over, I'd probably have put the steering box in the freezer over night and heated the coupler before installing.  Done it many times with bearings, flywheels/ ring gears, etc. and always makes things easier.  Just didn't think this time.)

I do not yet have the final coupler to connect the Izusu lower steering shaft to rack input so I used an old aluminum shaft from a broom or brush (or something).

I cut away some of the frame rail up front (I'll address reinforcements once all is done) to create some sort of a "nest" for the steering box and I think I managed to get close enough to fasten in place for mounting plate of some sort to be used. There are two threaded holes on the opposite side of the steering box (not shown in pic) that I should be able to use.