Aluminum Radiator

I want to replace my original radiator with an aluminum one, but without having to do any fabrication if possible. Has anyone found a direct replacement for a 1st Gen? If so, where? Over the weekend I found several sites (griffinrad.com alumarad.com coolcraft.com) but none seem to have the exact replacement, and they were all closed so I didn't talk to anyone. The only one that may work is one through alumarad.com but the size is slightly off. Any ideas? My radiator is already out and I'd like to replace it ASAP since the Woodward Cruise (it's a Michigan thing) is only 2 weeks away. Thanks in advance for any help. Billski

Man Bill, I miss Cruising Woodward !!!! Some serious memories there!!!

The closest thing I have found id this one. It's a bit taller so you have to drop the back of the belly pan a few inches but other than that it fits really good.

Dan

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersion&item=190494869266&view=all&tid=543019758009

Dan, I tried to view the link you sent me but it was no longer available to view. Any other info you can provide? Thanks.

Hmmmm. Weird! Try this one. Do you have a 1st or 2nd Gen doghouse?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-48-49-50-51-52-53-54-Chevy-Truck-Aluminum-Radiator-/190494869266?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5a610712

Try speedway, they have a some nice smalll aluminum radiators and there prtty reasonable (100-135).I just recently got one for a v6 toyota project and it was $109 and it is very nice quality. If money is no object, griffin is the way to go. I had them build a radiator formy big block s10 and is was $600(ouch) Bob

Dan he has a modified 1st gen doghouse, the mods are to the back so it would have to be a stock 1st gen sized radiator size

OK, Will match the New Aluminum one up with a 1st Gen Rad today and see how close they are... Will post pic's later.....

Dan

OKiee-Dokiee....

Here's what I found on Measurements...



Approximate dimensions of radiator cores widths are:
Stock:


Aluminum:


Approximate total radiator Heights are: (With filler neck)
Stock:


Aluminum:


Approximate width including side flanges are:
Stock:


Aluminum:

(Flanges on new Aluminum Rad are a bit larger and can be cut down to match stack Rad width.)

Aluminum Rad is taller than stock requiring the rear of the belly pan to be lowered approx 1 1/2 inches. And the top hose connection in in the center.



Approximate overall dimensions of radiator body are: 24-1/8" H X 19-1/4" W X 3" T
Approximate overall dimensions of radiator core are: 20" H X 19" W X 2-1/4" T
Approximate overall width including side flanges is: 22-3/4"

Hope this helps Bill,

Dan

Thanks for all the input. After much research I have decided to have mine re-cored so I can go with the original radiator, mounts, etc. I was told that my radiator had more than 50% blockage. The radiator should be ready this week and will bolt right back into place. The re-core will increase my coolant capacity by about 30 percent and should eliminate the heat issues I was having. Thanks again. Billski

Glad you found that Bill, don't want to overheat atthe Woodward Dream Cruise

hey Gman -thats a nice radiator- can fit many aps with slight mods- costs??

Thats post is from Dan

They are $198.95 Matt.

Dan

Looky looky! This radiator in a L6 doghouse in the stock location!


Now...I'm not done yet so bare with me. I will be done with the install this week, i promise.

When i bought this radiator I was under the assumption Dan was using it with a 6...he's not. Too late, its already here and I was gonna make it work dammit

First thing you need to do is make sure you get some slack in the main harness and get it over as far as you can to the drivers side of the doghouse. Same with the choke cable, if that applies to you (doesnt for me but i'm sure it wont be in the way).




Now this thing comes with about an 1-1/2" flange (thats actually welded on an angle, and I thought that was gonna be a problem but it isnt). Cut both sides down to under 3/4" (mine are actually about at 5/8").



Next i went to Home Depot and bought a 1/2" x 1/2" square steel tube 36" long. Cut it in half (sand and paint to taste) and then I used panhead screws to attach to the engine side of the 3/4" flange (centering it top to bottom) like so.



Next is a two man job. Unless your van is up on stands, getting the radiator up into the opening (without banging it into anything ) can be very tough. Once you get it in there you'll notice the upside down metal "U" flange on the doghouse (that the stock radiator mounts to) will hold the new radiator in the same location with the extra thickness offset to the front of the doghouse.




Now, to be honest, I'm sure these radiators are made in china. The weld appearance is crappy. So at the top front corners (where the fins meet the top tank) i had to do a little light grinding to get them smooth so the radiator sits nicer between the old mounting flange and the curvature of the front of the doghouse. I even ever so slightly notched the rounds of the doghouse. Although in hindsight, i'm not sure it was needed.





Now, as far as height goes, i held it up from the bottom and my buddy closed the lid and latched it. We went about 1/2" or less down from the bottom of the lid.


Now, with a height established and the radiator pulled tight to the old mounting bracket, I used a panhead screw, going through each side of the doghouse approx 2-1/2" down from the lip, into the 1/2" steel square tube i mounted to the radiators 3/4" flange. On the bottom i drilled a 1/4" hole through the radiator flange, through the steel tube, and through the old radiator mounting flange on the doghouse. Then I took a 3" bolt and a 1" sleeve and ran it through. My local hardware store was already closed at this point today so tomorrow i'll replace this with closer in size stainless hardware.









Ok...now for the $64,000 question...

I'm sure you noticed that the upper connection on this radiator is dead center instead of on the drivers side like the stock unit. There are two options as i see it for L6 owners here.

Option 1, replace stock water neck with swivel neck, use an upper radiator hose of approx 3" total length and then you'd need to either cut the blades of you stock fan down approx 2" or try to find an electric fan to mount to the radiator.

Option 2, this is the route I'm going. Now that I have it mounted right where i want it, I'm going to pull it out and take it in to have that top connection moved to the drivers side where it should be. How much is this goin to be? I dont know, but I'm going to try and find out tomorrow. Worst case, I have a friend who goes to a speciality aluminum welding shop and if I cut off the existing pipe, grind down the old weld, and drill the hole for the new pipe. They will weld a plate over the old hole and weld the pipe over the new hole.


I'll keep you posted on where i go with this.



Bill

I see you are already underway, but this was a really cool solution:

http://www.themodernform.com/econoline/econoline_cooling.html

Murdock, i've never even heard of a coolant filter until I read that. But now i have to get one!

Bill,
Sure is a tight fit with a L6. Have you considered something like this? And then just use a elbow hose.




I have lots of room with the 327. But glad to see what I will be facing in a few months when I do the Sportvan.



Just like with the Rad. Mounting. I believe this will require a little "Creative Engineering!"........ I do some research tonight and see what I can find!

And Bill. Great work! Looks very nice!

Dan

Nip -

Me either, I bet it catches stuff you would never think of especially in an older motor. Might also be another place for clues when issues arise.


I remembered another aluminum radiator install I also liked below. This one employs an electric fan. I am hoping to switch to an electric setup with a thermostat controller and drop my aluminum radiator down another 4 inches to catch more air.

http://dougjenkinsgarage.com/blog/category/1967fordeconolinevan/

DanTheVanMan wrote:Bill,
Sure is a tight fit with a L6. Have you considered something like this? And then just use a elbow hose.




I have lots of room with the 327. But glad to see what I will be facing in a few months when I do the Sportvan.



Just like with the Rad. Mounting. I believe this will require a little "Creative Engineering!"........ I do some research tonight and see what I can find!

And Bill. Great work! Looks very nice!

Dan

Dan I'm kinda already committed to option number two...I dropped it off this morning.


Should be ready to pick up in a day or so. They quoted me $50 to do the welding, more if i hadnt done what you see here.

WOW!!

That is quite the option! Definitely solve the L6 space issue! Matter a fact, I think you are the first to try this rad with a L6. And now we know!! I also have another one for my SportVan. Also a L6. I see the issue I to will face in the near future!!! But like you, I will find a way!!!

Welllll. Where there's a will, there's a way for sure!!!

Dan

Well in the center position, the 18" steel fan would cut it clean off. And i thought cutting the fan down, to make it not do that, would look hokey (would need like 2" off each blade, making it about a 14" fan). As well as being way less efficient. This way you can use the correct upper hose and (even though I already bought one) you wouldnt really need the swivel water neck. I dont see cooling being a problem in my future.

Glad to hear it!

Problem solved. They did the weld for $20.





Still have to put the fan on but this is a good shot without it. And if everything works then I can put the belly pan etc back on too.

Problem solved is right! That looks great. I may just have to have mine done for the Sportvan before I even think about putting it in! Welcome to the RD dept.! We learn from all the "Trial & Error" of those that came before us and future vanners can learn from our experiences!!!!!

Again, Looks great!

Dan

One thing i forgot to mention was about the lower radiator hose. The previous owner, not me, for some reason has a splice in it. I dont think i have a stock hose. I have seen what the stock hose looks like and mine looks "made" to look like a stock. Its made up of two pieces and almost a pvc like joint with 2 extra hose clamps on the lower vertical part. Now I point this out because that joint actually worked out in my favor. I loosened both those clamps and got an extra inch of length out of it. Otherwise it would have been too short. And i tried to pull it down at first, but it was a no go. Just so you're aware ahead of time.