Aluminum VS. Regular radiator

So I wanted some feedback regarding radiator types. My 4-core brass radiator just gets too hot 230+ its a new core spent lots of money on it. It is the original radiator from a 2nd gen van, cross flow with the expansion tank. My engine is a 350... I have a high flow water pump etc. still runs too hot.
I see many people taking about Aluminum radiators? Some only have a 2 row and are cooler than mine is running?
Can you guys give me some information as to why Aluminum may be better? I had a 4-row straight flow on the van when I bought it... but wanted to be more original to the van... so I spent bucks getting the cross flow 4 core redone. It has never run as cool? It used o run at 185 but not 230!
I am installing a tunnel to help the air flow... but will that really cool it down enough?
I see some have the twin in/out fans attached as well.
Just want some ideas from the crowd. I cannot stand the hot motor sitting next to me.
Thanks!

You have the belly pan in place, right? Without it - temp will never be solved. With my orig radiator I had no problems so far on a 318 - Up to know it max'd out at close to 200 (~90° C), even with slow traffic and up to mid-80s ambi ent temp. But I'm curious about riding the Autobahn on friday for 2h with expected 95 ambient and plenty of sun... I will avoid going faster than 60-65mph...

Yes I have a belly pan in place... I think I have everything I should. But just runs too hot.
I am sure I would not do well running it on the Autobahn! I cannot go more than ten miles and I am up to high temps!! It great for going 1 or 2 blocks...LOL
Maybe the tunnel will solve it? But I am not confident any longer driving too far in the heat.

Did you have a chance to check on your air/fuel ratio, maybe its a bit too lean and/or to late timing? If you have lean mixture, you have to ignite much earlier (lean mix needs more time to fully burn, otherwise causing too much exhaust and follwoing engine temp).

Oh, sorry, one more. I'll assume that the cooling system is clean all the way including engine.
A high flow pump might be just too much as well with the wrong pulley. I remember one solution on some forum, that the pulley-ratio (crankshaft to water pump) for the water pump was too much to have efficient cooling flow (too fast's not good either).

I had a friend who had a 68 108 350 turbo 350
With the 4 core cross flow rad, he tried the high
flow water pump and his temp issues got worse
he replaced with a stock one and all back to normal.
I never thought about the hi flow pump after that.
It moves the water too fast to cool properly

Experience about doing 50-60mph for 3 hours at approx. 98F ambient temperature. My gauge was pretty far right, near the mark for High temp. Uppoer coolant hose and radiator wer close to 200. Did only read the sensor area later on and had approx. 25F more.

Wouldn't want to do more, but the truck ran fine.

The 2 row aluminum usually run a 1 " tube. If I recall correctly the thought is the extra turbulence in the larger tubes helps the cooling effect compared to the multiple smaller ones. I run a 2 row x flow on a 350 and normally stay @185-195 in pretty wsrm weather even at 75mph. Thicker isn't always better.

Well I see that this thread is a month old, so I'm probably too late to help...….So I'll comment anyway..... First, there are pumps and fans that turn the same direction as the crank and then there are the ones intended for serpentine belt drive that turn in the opposite direction.... If you accidently got a reverse rotating pump, it will install but won't work, unless you have a serp setup.... same with fan blades.... Next.... Top and bottom radiator hoses are new with no internal aneurisms and the lower hose is either a flex-wire(d) hose or has a spring inside of it, right? The lower hose can suck shut if it doesn't have a wire coil for stiffness...…
I've got a couple of other easy mods that I'm going to propose "as experiments" because I've experienced so much hate for suggesting these two somethings that actually work GREAT for me, but are complete heresy to all the experts...….I live in possibly the hottest place on earth, Lake Havasu, AZ (Death Valley may be hotter)….My everyday driver with a TBI small-block chevy runs 130 degrees with the A/C blowing ice cubes in 120 degree weather..... So here is the deal AS AN EXPERIMENT....

Remove the thermostat, cut the plunger guts out of the middle of it and re-install and refill with 5050 coolant..... Try this and see how it works for you!!

Next, If your van has a fan clutch, either replace it with a Corvette "fan clutch eliminator" spacer (available online) or mechanically lock your fan clutch and re-install.... Be aware that locking a fan clutch is a permanent modification that will require a replacement fan clutch when you decide to have one that works again......A properly working fan clutch turns the fan 60-90% of pulley speed, A locked fan turns 100%

As I said, you should only do these two mods as experiments, because the hate and discontent you'll experience for actually suggesting either one of these mods works is just too great!!

Yes, You may lose some fuel mileage.....Yes, It will sound like a jet plane taking off under your doghouse and you may have to secure the lid better, And your engine should run "too cold".....

The argument will be that the coolant rushes through the rad too fast to lose heat.... Welll…. it's also running through the engine that fast, so it never gets all that hot to begin with and THEN the whole system equalizes and you discover whether the ratio of liquid between the two is right for getting rid of the engine heat....Try these mods, but don't tell anybody that they work!

I am making the assumption that you have a full fan shroud (Needs it!) and I also wanted to add about fan clutches.....The good design has a coiled bi-metal spring on the front that is the thermostatic switch for the valve that releases the fluid that locks the clutch.....If you find the front of the clutch oily-dirty, the fluid has leaked out of it and it no longer locks the fan.... IT'S DONE!.... So there is no penalty for mechanically locking it because it needs replacement anyway!!
And regarding the thermostat deal above, to be clear, You will re-install the disc with no guts attached because it needs to be there for proper gasket sealing...