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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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    Real Newbie questions!

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    Post by Guest Fri Aug 14, 2009 10:16 pm

    Okay, just picked up my '65 tonight and drove her home, about 30 miles, what a drive!

    A few real basic questions:

    What are good shift points for the manual 3 speed trannY? I've got a 250 in there and I know the tranny is at least newer than the original because it has syncros for 1st gear.

    How much oil does a 250 hold with filter change?

    What is the dwell setting, and where are the timing marks, what is it timed to?

    What is the procedure for adjusting the E-brake? Mine no workie!

    I don't have a book , the only one I've found online is for '67 and beyond but I imagine thats okay.

    thanks for any help!

    mark in Portland
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Fri Aug 14, 2009 11:49 pm

    Real Newbie questions! Tune_u10
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    Post by donivan65 Fri Aug 14, 2009 11:57 pm

    Point gap is .019,,,,31-34 Dwell,,,, Timing notch is on front pulley,,,,numbers are on tab next to alternator,,,,,,,check and adjust rear brakes 1st,,,,then do the lever at rear of transmission,,,,,sometimes cable is stretched,,,,tie a knot in it,,,,,books usually on Ebay,,,you need 1963 Chevrolet Truck Shop Manual and the Chevy Van Shop Manual supplement
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    Post by savage Sat Aug 15, 2009 7:07 am

    It holds 5 qts with the filter. The 250 is a great motor alot better than the 194 or 230, and your lucky they put the newer trans in. I'm not for sure but have heard 66 had syncro trans??? Maybe your is late 65??
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    Post by G-Man Sat Aug 15, 2009 7:34 am

    Do you have any pictures yet???? Check the cable on the e-brake first may be broke or hung up.
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    Post by Guest Mon Aug 17, 2009 12:07 pm

    Turns out I had the supplemental truck manual in the back of the rig with all the parts the PO gave me, cool!

    A few more little thing:

    Someone added a water temp gauge at some point, what temps am I looking at here for normal running around? At what point do I think about pulling over?

    And my throwout bearing is making some noise, I knew this when I bought and the PO was up front about it. However, I have no issues whatsoever with the tranny, really the clutch/tranny work flawlessly! How long can I drive around with a worn bearing? Until I start to have shifting problems?

    I have an extra working tranny/bell housing/clutch etc in the back, so no big deal when I gotta swap it out.

    Another thing: the manual says these brakes adust on their own after initial setup by reverse motion. Now, I don't have any issues with the brakes on this rig right now except for a pedal that gets hard after awhile. Even during a quick stop it doesn't pull or make sounds. So they're probably all right? When do you have to mess with the adjusters, just when things are out of whack?

    And as far as the E-brake goes, it looks like I've got all the wires, so I just adjust according to the manual: pull handle 2 notches, tighten nut until the rear wheel feel slight resistance from brakes, then you're good?

    And finally, my manual says for oil filter change to first knock a hole in the filter bottom and drain it? Really ? Never done that before!

    Sorry about all the questions, sure has been fun driving this baby around!!

    mark in Portland
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    Post by donivan65 Mon Aug 17, 2009 6:31 pm

    Here are some answers,,,,,the throwout bearing just sits there until you step on the clutch and push it into the pressure plate and it spins with it. Most common problem is no free play which causes the bearing to rub against the pressure and spin all the time and it wears it right out. So make sure there is free play and the bearing is not turning when the engine is running,,,,,and the less you use the clutch, the longer it will last , even with the noise. The oil capacity depends on which filter you use,,,the short or long one,,,,,it is in there sideways and the oil might run all over the engine when you loosen the filter, so they say punch a hole so you can hit the drain pan,,,,I have never done that,,,,just make a ramp for the oil to clear the side panels and axle,,,
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    Post by Guest Mon Aug 17, 2009 6:44 pm

    You mean free play in the pedal? How do I check/adjust for this? The pedal is pretty stiff.

    mark
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    Post by Guest Mon Aug 17, 2009 7:49 pm

    So I've got this water temp gauge hooked up, the PO for some reason put inside the engine compartment up against the engine (there's a bunch of coiled wire and zip tied so I know whoever had it before had it outside the engine).

    Anyway I just started checking the temp after driving and its up near 230....now, this last time I was driving the rig maybe a few miles to home, its hot out here maybe high 80's, lotsa low speed under 30mph driving, and lots of stops.

    Now, from the little research I've done, it seems like 230 is pretty high.

    Could the gauge be influenced by its proximity to the hot engine?

    I'm gonna cut the zip tie tomorrow and get the gauge out of the doghouse, see how it reads.

    thanks for all the info so far!

    mark
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    Post by donivan65 Mon Aug 17, 2009 9:00 pm

    We will get to all your questions eventually,,,,,,so back to the clutch adjustment,,,,,you should be able to push the clutch pedal down about a 1/2" with your finger,,,,and as the clutch wears, the clearance goes away until it the pedal has no clearance,,,,at that time the throw out bearing is touching and spinning,,,and if it gets worse,,,,the clutch starts slipping and burning out,,,,so to re adjust the clutch,,,,shorten the adjustment rod,,,,you should be able to pull this red clutch fork back 1/8",,,,it has to be somewhat loose,,,you should be able to move it by hand and feel the spring pulling it forward,,,,


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    Post by Guest Mon Aug 17, 2009 9:29 pm

    Yes the clutch pedal already has the 1/2" clearance, guess its just a worn out bearing!

    mark
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    Post by donivan65 Mon Aug 17, 2009 9:42 pm

    Make sure the clutch fork is loose,,,,,why do you think the throw out bearing is bad,,,,,,it only makes noise when you step on the clutch? or is there always noise when the engine is running?
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    Post by Guest Mon Aug 17, 2009 10:42 pm

    Well the PO told me the throwout bearing was bad, and he seemed to know his stuff.

    He said the guy who had the van before him ran the tranny out of oil, so he put some in and the tranny was fine but the bearing is noisy.

    Thats how it stands now, there's noise until you put the clutch in. And you can hear some noise at low RPM's but not once you've got 'er revved up.

    mark
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    Post by donivan65 Mon Aug 17, 2009 10:57 pm

    Now if he ran it out of oil, then the transmission could have problems,,,,,AND if the trans is noisy in neutral, AND it goes away when you step on the clutch, THEN the input shaft bearing is probably the problem,,,the throw out bearing is part of the clutch, not the transmission,,,,,
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    Post by Guest Tue Aug 18, 2009 3:27 pm

    Okay, well that is probably what is happening, but the long and short of it all is that I have zero problems with the tranny/clutch besides the noise, which doesn't bother me at all.

    Now, the water temp thing is what is at the foremost of my mind. I'm wondering my gauge is accurate, if the location of the gauge in the doghouse makes it read hotter, or what is going on.

    Any clues on the temp stuff? No boiling over whatsover with this van so far.

    mark
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    Post by donivan65 Tue Aug 18, 2009 8:28 pm

    The sending unit determines the gauge reading, so it wont matter where the gauge is,,,,,,drain the radiator down a little and see how many rows of tubes are in there and if they are blocked up,,,,,,feel the radiator fins when the temp is high,,,see if it is all hot or if there are some cooler spots that would mean the tubes are clogged up. And does it go up just idling or high speed ,,,,can you get it to come down,,,,,,and it depends on the radiator cap and coolant mixture as to what temp the coolant will boil over,,, but rule #1,,,,,,,make sure you got a good radiator by having it rodded out or recored,,,,,without a good working radiator,,,you are done for,,,,,,
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    Post by Guest Tue Aug 18, 2009 9:50 pm

    Okay, so tonight I took the van to the local auto parts place to get stuff for an oil/filter change. I pulled the temp gauge out of the doghouse so I could watch it while I drive. It got up to 215 or so by the time I got to the store, maybe 5 minutes of low speed stop and start driving. Then when I came out it read closer to 230 after sitting, but as soon as I started it up it went way way down, and soon settled around the 215-220 mark by the time I got home.

    I'll have to check the things you mention with the radiator tomorrow.

    thanks for the help!!

    mark in Portland
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    Post by donivan65 Tue Aug 18, 2009 11:17 pm

    Rule #2 get rid of that single line master cylinder and replace the brake lines and hoses,,,,,Look at what you are trusting your life and those around you with,,,,,,1 little rubber cup,,,,,,this is your whole brake system,,,,and WHEN,,,,,not IF,,, it goes bad, you are done for,,,,,or if there is a leak ANYWHERE in the system...so convert it over to a 2 line system. And those self adjusters,,,,,probably not working anymore,,,,,pull off the drums and see how it looks in there,,,,,if there are any leaks,,,if there is any lining left,,,,,best way is to remove the plugs in the drums and tighten the star wheel and back off on it until the drum will turn again,,,,then adjust the parking brake cable.


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    Post by Guest Wed Aug 19, 2009 9:50 pm

    Yes the brake upgrade will happen this month.

    Changed the oil/filter today, the old stuff looked real old!
    Engine is smoother now.

    Another problem: this baby has an automatic choke that doesn't seem to work so well, but I may be using it wrong. I pump the pedal a few times, crank, it starts/dies. I do this a few times and then it starts but sometimes the throttle really goes high and I have to tap the pedal real quick to drop it down. Is this a lube/grease issue? Something is sticking? Or does it have to do with the choke?

    mark
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    Post by donivan65 Wed Aug 19, 2009 10:19 pm

    Must be nice to have an automatic choke,,,,,,,,but 1st thing when it is cold,,,,,take off the air cleaner and step on the gas a couple of times,,,,,choke should close all the way,,,,,then start it,,,,,choke should open up 1/8",,,it should not stay closed or open up all the way,,,,,,,there should be a choke pull off diaphram that controls the opening of the choke when it starts. You can push on the choke plate to see if the engine wants it closed or open more,,,,,What kind of carburetor do you have? does the gas line come into from the passenger side or from the front?
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    Post by Guest Thu Aug 20, 2009 3:15 pm

    Looked at the carb quickly today, its a Rochester MonoJet.
    Didn't have time to check the things you mentioned, I was messing with the brakes (see other post)

    mark

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