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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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crazee
savage
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    solid axle bounce steer

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    Post by Guest Sun Sep 06, 2009 9:28 pm

    i noticed that at higher speed the van tends to suddenly track to either side after a bump. i read that a solid front axle will cause this because what one wheel does affects the other unlike independent suspension. has anyone observed this in their van? do steering dampers help? here is a link to a moog damper, tell me what you think of this http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1335383,parttype,7412 the biggest jumps are when the van runs off a couple inches of drop like leaving a bridge deck, or uneven pavement drops. it makes it hard to relax when driving since the tracking action can throw the van onto the center line without warning. thanks steve
    savage
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    Post by savage Mon Sep 07, 2009 1:19 pm

    Steve , What kind of shape are your king pins,& tie rods in?? My 64 ND use to do the same thing .Drives like new with new KP & wheel bearings.
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    Post by Guest Mon Sep 07, 2009 2:19 pm

    king pins are tight no wobble on jack stands, the wheel bearings are a little sloppy, the drag link was hammered out so bad there was a ten inch dead spot in the wheel and that was a mother to control. i installed a new drag link, and replaced the shocks which corrected this a lot. like you say i should put new wheel bearings in. thanks savage.
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    crazee


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    Post by crazee Tue Sep 15, 2009 7:37 am

    It sounds like your major problem is an ALIGNMENT ISSUE. Had the same deal with my old 64 Econoline. Plus Fords are famous for worn king pins ( more than a Chevy I always found ).

    If your King Pins are good.........I suggest new shocks and an alignment. Your van SHOULD NOT "dart about" when hitting a bump.

    I just did new shocks on mine..............the difference was/is amazing ( and mine tracked good before --> I THOUGHT)

    I went to AutoZone and got stock gas shocks for the front ( Gabriel ) and Air Shocks for the rear ( Gabreil Hi-Jackers).

    About $100 total for all. Next day ordering.

    Good tie rod ends, king pins, alignment and good shocks all add up to having a flattie that steers correctly.

    On rare occasions you may have a sloppy steering box that needs adjusted too. But this is readily noticed by way too much free-play in the steering.

    And bad or loose wheel bearing are easily seen with the front off the ground, wheels/tires off and wiggling the wheels to check for freeplay. Good to check the snugness of the wheel bearings and grease anyway.
    Scott
    Scott


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    Post by Scott Tue Sep 15, 2009 8:24 am


    Some of the second generation Chevy's had Caster Shims between the front leafs and axle, this was done to help stabilize the steering. If its an option on your Ford van they might also need to be adjusted during the alignment.

    On the Chevy's it was only adjustable by how the shim was placed, or removed.


    Caster Shims / Camber

    solid axle bounce steer Dsc05110

    I found these shims wedged between the front springs and I-beam of my 68. I took a look at the 67 Service Manual and found them there too.
    solid axle bounce steer Cast210

    Here’s what the GM Service Manual has to say about it.
    The Positive caster is the amount in degrees of the backward tilt of the kingpin. Positive camber is the amount in degrees that the front wheels are tilted outward at the top from a vertical position. Both angle adjustments are necessary for steering stability and safe vehicle handling.

    I Beam Axle Models
    On I beam axles, if camber angle does not fall within specified limits, the axle center or steering knuckle is bent. Caster angle is adjusted by the use of tapered shims placed between the axle spring seat and spring. To increase caster, place thick end of shim toward rear of vehicle; to decrease caster, place thick end of shim toward front of vehicle.


    solid axle bounce steer Caster11
    solid axle bounce steer Cast310
    The picture gives an idea of how the caster angle is figured.
    jkr
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    Post by jkr Tue Sep 15, 2009 4:17 pm

    caster should not affect steering control on a straight axle untill;
    caster is negative or centerline is forward of vertical. caster is designed in all vehicles to give "good returnability" of the steering to straight ahead regardless of design (straight axle or independant). the shims do go missing or corrode or break and an assortment of other reasons can cause an issue. the most likely cause of your wandering is loose parts but a wheel alingment is not out of the question. the only thing is you might have to find an older shop with an older alingment machine because some of the new computerized machines won't give good results with the normal loosness of a straight axle. try to find a truck shop that specalizes in solid axles. they might have shims to install if needed and know where to bend an axle to get camber correct while maintaining caster angles and toe in. toe out can cause an unexpected darting from side to side as well.
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    crazee


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    Post by crazee Tue Sep 15, 2009 4:26 pm

    I've never seen the "shims"on the two Fords I rebuilt the straight axle on.
    I do not "THINK" Ford used them.

    And I think not all Chevy's had them either as my 1967 does not have them.................INTERESTING HUH?

    ALSO------> if the "TOE IN" alignment is off as in the wheels both do not point completely straight ( one cocked off to the side).this WILL make your steering dart off one way or the other when hitting pot holes, grooves, ruts etc.etc...........

    HOW DO I KNOW??? Because my 1964 Ford had just this problem earlier this year. Check your "TOE IN".

    Alignment has 3 main points- Caster, Camber & Toe In.

    A good explanation is here-->
    http://www.familycar.com/Alignment.htm
    RipVanArkie
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    Post by RipVanArkie Tue Sep 15, 2009 4:45 pm

    Ford did use them as we found at the MidSouth Econoline Meet where we watched several old Ford service training films. Shims should not exceed 3degrees though. If you have a big forward rake like I do it will affect allignment.

    With new bearings and all joints tight there are still several adjustments you could make IF needed.

    Do you have a shop manual for your year of Econoline? If not, I highly suggest finding one.

    Ford and Chevy ARE different even though they both have straight axles. (I have both too).


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    Post by Guest Tue Sep 15, 2009 5:18 pm

    good info guys, i'll have to re-read it when i'm sober. i checked the king pins and they are tight, the tires are worn on the inside edge on both wheels, maybe this points to something... i'll have to ask my beer...
    wideload
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    Post by wideload Tue Sep 15, 2009 8:21 pm

    Steve that sounds like your toe-in. My 68 wore the inside of both front tires and that's the only thing that was out on the alignment.


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