gas tank swap

Hi all, I'm looking to do a couple of improvements to my van and I want to make sure I'm on the right track. I would like to switch over to the new 24 gallon tank that Vansauto is producing. I see on his website that he also sells sending units for the 1st gen's.
I'm running a TBI fuel injected motor so what I'm thinking is that I would have to plug the fuel pickup on the stock sending unit and buy a universal fuel pump with the fuel supply, return and vent lines on the mounting bracket or whatever you call it. Then I would have to saw a hole in the top of the tank to mount the pump to. Am I on the right track?
I'm also going to switch out my pancake style AC compressor for a Sanden and I want to try something different for a throttle cable. It's hard to complain about having AC but that pancake style compressor is loud! For the throttle cable, I used a Morse style and it has enough resistance that when I push the gas, it doesn't happen real smooth. I was looking at the Lokar throttle cables which look more like a go cart kind of cable. Anyone have any input?

is your morse cable used to push or did you loop it 180 degrees to pull? I have mine pushing straight back and coming from the front of engine to the carbs pushing them open. I had no luck with the cables either looped or using bell cranks.

Mine is an 11' cable from Jegs and it comes in from behind. I was wondering if switching to a pusher would help. It sure would be shorter.

Well that's one way of doing it if you want to use an in tank fuel pump. The alternative is you use an inline fuel pump and replace the stock sending unit for one that has the return and vent lines already installed. What I did is I took the stock sending unit, drilled a hole and installed an AN bulkhead fitting for the vent line, and I'm running a vented gas cap.

Here's the fuel pump I've been looking at.
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=84/category_id=61/mode=prod/prd84.htm

And here's the throttle cable I was wondering about if I routed it the same as what I have.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-tc-1000u132/overview/

Not sure if this helps,  I expect can build you a 3/8" fuel sending unit with a return line fitting.



PM me if interested.

Will do, Gary. Thanks.

im running a 91 350 tbi 700r4 all on the factory
ecm, slightly modified harness, factory 69 fuel tank
and sender unit, fuel pump is a universal frame mount
that puts out 17 psi its for tbi systems. the return is plumed
in the vent hose at the filler neck, I made a t fitting that is 1/2 inch
one way and 5/16 the other and install it in the rubber section
of the vent line at the filler neck, I use a fuel filter from a 91 thunderbird
3.8 v6 for the filter it has an inlet of 5/16 and an outlet of 3/8 it is
installed before the frame mounted pump.

Thanks, P man. I remember you trying to explain that to me a while back but it makes more sense to me now. The inline pump does sound a lot simpler and if you're not having any issues, then that's the way I'll go. I might take Gary and VanHelsing up on their idea of adding a fitting for the return line to the sending unit so I don't have to extend the line that's there.
I ended up having to get a reman ECM for my van and since then it's been running great. With the 24 gallon tank, it should be ready for a family trip this summer.
About my throttle cable, is there any reason not to have one that pushes from the front of the motor? I thought I remembered an old post about how it might not be safe for some reason.
Thanks all for the help, Sam

pusher throttle cables tend to need a larger
return spring to make the cable retun, making the
pedal stiff, I bought a universal motorcycle throttle cable
kit off of ebay for about 40.00 that was long enough to
make cables for two vans. came with fittings for the ends.

The van pedal was set up to push the linkage, so the simplest way to set up a cable is to use a 33c Morse/Teleflex style cable as a "pusher" setup..... I'll take some heat for this, so you should decide how safe, but I personally would put the return spring on the pedal arm rather than at the pushed arm on the TBI to keep tension/ binding within the cable to a minimum. If a 33c cable jams, there is no return spring on the planet strong enough to override it anyway.... (or any other throttle cable, for that matter, even one that pulls)

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-850400/overview/ this is the cable I used. I ran it straight back along the floor and into the doghouse and a very slight curve to come out in front of the carbs. this was the easiest, the least restrictive and ironically the cheapest of my many attempts to have a properly functioning gas pedal. having dual carbs, I have twice the resistance before I start. the mechanical linkage would just bend, after making it heavy duty, it was just too big and heavy and was a chore to drive. several different versions of the pull cable all required a heavy spring to overcome the friction of the tight bends and the bell cranks removed that but added new issues with the additional pivot points. if your set on a cable to pull, I have a couple I can send you but keep in mind that I removed them as they simply didn't work.

Don, good to hear from you. I think what I'm concerned might be unsafe is if the cable were to come loose from the carb. With the return spring down at the pedal, it could get ugly!
Here's a picture of my setup showing how we made a lever to make the cable I used pull from behind. I guess this could be some of the cause of the friction I'm getting. There's definitely some hard angles going on there. Thanks everyone for the input.
https://servimg.com/view/18989929/153

I used a throttle cable off a Fiero. Just requires normal spring at carb. It is a puller set up.