by lzxlz Sun Apr 23, 2017 2:59 pmUPDATE (Previous)::::!!!!::::::
Re-wired to the original diagrams posted here on vintage vans for the 1966 Chevy G10 230 engine.
Results are good except the generator "idiot" light on the instrument cluster stays on when running, even though the battery is showing a charge proportionate to revs.
I have two theories about this:
1). The wiring diagram is for the original equipment a generator VS. and now the newer alternator has blade positions which may be different. I don't think the alternator blades are labeled on the casting either or are the same positions as in the diagram for the generator. Could this could be the cause of the light staying on?
- THIS did not work it just made the light go on without the key in the ignition or accessory/ start position. It did turn off when running but came back on after stopping the engine and taking the ket out.
2). Another possibility is that the older voltage regulator I replaced (after it failed) was wired incorrectly since I had the vehicle since I discovered it had some wires mis-connected to it. Namely, the dark blue temp gauge lead and had a mis-colored wire off the relay from the alternator to an incorrect blade on the voltage regulator. The newer voltage regulator may have been blown from trying to start the van after replacing following the previous connections (which I have now confirmed to be incorrect) Hopefully this is why now that it is correctly wired it's showing the generator "idiot" light on the instrument cluster. Does anyone know for sure how the voltage regulator would default/ blow a fuse or circuit inside from that?
Even though it seems to be running fine despite the light being on I don't plan on driving it until this is resolved or answered. THIS did not seem to work either. I installed another new and slightly different looking voltage regulator and have the same results as with the previous one; I am getting a charge from the alt. to the battery (good) yet that dang gen/fan "idiot" light stays on the cluster when the key is turned and the car is running.
I GUESS THERE'S A CHANCE IT COULD BE THE KEY/IGNITION SWITCH, MAYBE?
The switch is pretty loosey-goosey and it is the original...
PREVIOUS POST:
Here is the problem I am having. I had to replace my older voltage regulator with a newer one. The one I bought was the less expensive option available. I wired the new one exactly the same as older one. (resolved...see above).
The visible differences from the older regulator are that it had 2 fuses visible on the back side of the regulator to various points on the blade connections. The new one does not have any fuses on the outside so I am guessing they may be on the inside?
Here are my Q's about the voltage regulator for a 1966 Chevy G10 230cc, w/ manual trans.
1). Are there various wiring configurations for the regulators that could vary by year?
2). Does anyone know with any certainty that these new regulators are actually correctly configured with the blades and connections oriented correctly for G10 vans?
2A). There are two prices ranges available- $18-$25 at most chain auto part stores and $65-$95 from "higher end" auto parts dealers. Is there really that much of a difference? It seems the low end ones are electronic (more compact plus it states it is electronic on a page in the box) rather than the electro-mechanical type that I temporarily repaired on the one I replaced.
3). Are voltage regulator issues a common problem with newer alternators, batteries, and the charging system on 66' G10 vans?
4). Is there an ideal formula of aftermarket parts recommended to help resolve this?
I ask because it seems the electrical system is designed around various voltages judging by the multiple gauges of wires in the system referenced from the diagrams.
Re-wired to the original diagrams posted here on vintage vans for the 1966 Chevy G10 230 engine.
Results are good except the generator "idiot" light on the instrument cluster stays on when running, even though the battery is showing a charge proportionate to revs.
I have two theories about this:
1). The wiring diagram is for the original equipment a generator VS. and now the newer alternator has blade positions which may be different. I don't think the alternator blades are labeled on the casting either or are the same positions as in the diagram for the generator. Could this could be the cause of the light staying on?
- THIS did not work it just made the light go on without the key in the ignition or accessory/ start position. It did turn off when running but came back on after stopping the engine and taking the ket out.
2). Another possibility is that the older voltage regulator I replaced (after it failed) was wired incorrectly since I had the vehicle since I discovered it had some wires mis-connected to it. Namely, the dark blue temp gauge lead and had a mis-colored wire off the relay from the alternator to an incorrect blade on the voltage regulator. The newer voltage regulator may have been blown from trying to start the van after replacing following the previous connections (which I have now confirmed to be incorrect) Hopefully this is why now that it is correctly wired it's showing the generator "idiot" light on the instrument cluster. Does anyone know for sure how the voltage regulator would default/ blow a fuse or circuit inside from that?
Even though it seems to be running fine despite the light being on I don't plan on driving it until this is resolved or answered. THIS did not seem to work either. I installed another new and slightly different looking voltage regulator and have the same results as with the previous one; I am getting a charge from the alt. to the battery (good) yet that dang gen/fan "idiot" light stays on the cluster when the key is turned and the car is running.
I GUESS THERE'S A CHANCE IT COULD BE THE KEY/IGNITION SWITCH, MAYBE?
The switch is pretty loosey-goosey and it is the original...
PREVIOUS POST:
Here is the problem I am having. I had to replace my older voltage regulator with a newer one. The one I bought was the less expensive option available. I wired the new one exactly the same as older one. (resolved...see above).
The visible differences from the older regulator are that it had 2 fuses visible on the back side of the regulator to various points on the blade connections. The new one does not have any fuses on the outside so I am guessing they may be on the inside?
Here are my Q's about the voltage regulator for a 1966 Chevy G10 230cc, w/ manual trans.
1). Are there various wiring configurations for the regulators that could vary by year?
2). Does anyone know with any certainty that these new regulators are actually correctly configured with the blades and connections oriented correctly for G10 vans?
2A). There are two prices ranges available- $18-$25 at most chain auto part stores and $65-$95 from "higher end" auto parts dealers. Is there really that much of a difference? It seems the low end ones are electronic (more compact plus it states it is electronic on a page in the box) rather than the electro-mechanical type that I temporarily repaired on the one I replaced.
3). Are voltage regulator issues a common problem with newer alternators, batteries, and the charging system on 66' G10 vans?
4). Is there an ideal formula of aftermarket parts recommended to help resolve this?
I ask because it seems the electrical system is designed around various voltages judging by the multiple gauges of wires in the system referenced from the diagrams.
