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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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    voltage regulator

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    voltage regulator Empty voltage regulator

    Post by Guest Fri May 08, 2009 8:54 pm

    my '67 doesn't have one. is this why i'm battling lighting and fuse issues? does anyone have a diagram of what goes into which terminals? does it only regulate certain aspects of the electrical system? and what plug on your fuse block did the factory radio run off of? i have lots of questions lately, the farther i dig into my awesome van.

    luckily, i've got the regulator from my parts van. i'm just unsure of where the wires are supposed to go! drunken
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Fri May 08, 2009 9:20 pm

    The voltage regulator should be on the inside of the doghouse next to the alternator (on a 6 cylinder), like below the drivers seat,,,,,is it there?????and if its gone,,,,,did someone put a new style internal regulator alternator on it??
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    Post by Guest Fri May 08, 2009 9:34 pm

    that's what my uncle was saying when i described my problems to him! and the alternator looks the same as what's on the parts van! all i have are a few holes where the regulator was (and will be again, if i figure out what goes where)
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sat May 09, 2009 7:53 am

    OK,,,,,then if you want to put it back to original you need to put the 4 wires back on the regulator,,,,,,and they are from left to right,,,,,F 2 3 4,,,,,,F and 2 go to the alternator,,,,,,3 is battery voltage,,,,,4 is to idiot light ,,,,,,,do you have a diagram,,,,,,,do you see the wires ??????
    Scott
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    Location : Anoka, MN
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    Post by Scott Sat May 09, 2009 7:56 am

    This might help,

    voltage regulator Wd4web10

    It shows the wire gauge and colors too.
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sat May 09, 2009 7:59 am

    voltage regulator 67_alt10
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sat May 09, 2009 8:08 am

    ,,,,so there you go,,,,,,theres a couple of diagrams to help you out,,,,,you probably have other problems, but bring them on,,,,
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    Post by Guest Sat May 09, 2009 9:38 am

    heck yeah! thank you two very much. i want this thing to be more for the streets, and less for backroad sneak-drives!
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    Post by Guest Sat May 09, 2009 11:26 am

    Took mine on a sneak drive today. Spent yesterday try to liberate 42 year old shock bolts....I have a few new curse words if you need 'em.
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sat May 09, 2009 11:36 am

    And if you are conFUZED,,,,,Scott is re doing his fuse block here,,,,,,

    https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/between-the-seats-g-f17/all-systems-stopped-t4994.htm
    Scott
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    Number of posts : 1651
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    Post by Scott Mon May 11, 2009 11:40 am

    I'm traveling for the next couple of weeks, so I'm working out my wiring changes till I get back. Combing over the diagrams posted here, then figuring out what I need to change to upgrade my Alternator, and move to HEI.

    Any recommendations on what Alternator to put in next?


    I figure more juice for more electronics, radio, maybe TV, and definently A/C.
    ViewMaster
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    Post by ViewMaster Mon May 11, 2009 2:00 pm

    Here is a good article to read when thinking af changing your alternator.
    http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml
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    Post by Guest Mon May 11, 2009 7:21 pm

    hmm.. turns out i'm learning more than i thought i initially knew about the van. its got a one wire alternator with an accel super coil (#140001). it came with a 0.85 ohm ballast resistor. the resistor was installed improperly. both the starter wire and the ignition wire were run through the resistor to the coil. i re-insulated the resistor with only the ignition wire running through it and the starter running directly off the coil. the '67 starts a lot better, but i'm still losing power somewhere, as the battery will NOT hold a charge. i've taken my battery and the spare in and run them on a snap-on tester. both good. so where should i start if something is drawing power that shouldn't?
    Digz
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    Post by Digz Mon May 11, 2009 7:35 pm

    Get it charged up and try unhooking the alternator overnight and see if ithe battery keeps it's charge. could have a bad diode that results in a slow discharge.
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Mon May 11, 2009 7:45 pm

    I don't know what you mean by the starter running off the coil,,,but as long as the ballast resistor goes to the positive side of the coil AND a wire from the outside, R terminal on the starter solenoid also goes to it,,,,then its right,,,,and then there is your battery drain,,,,,take off a battery cable and put a 12 volt test light BETWEEN the cable and its post you took off,,,,if it lights, then you have a drain on the system,,,,and your battery will go dead,,,,,if it lights, unplug all the wires on the alternator and pull fuses one at a time,,,,,,,the plan is to see what makes that test light go out,,,,
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    Post by Guest Mon May 11, 2009 7:59 pm

    you're the man donivan. i think that's my problem right there. i'm not sure if the wire goes directly to the starter, or to the solenoid. or if that's even possible. and that's exactly the testing info i need. i'm going to be rollin' in no time. except the tranny end of my clutch rod broke off in traffic yesterday! *CLUNK* van lurches through a red light and jack frantically mashes the gas steering the van to safety in a nearby lot. just the little end with the pin took too much wear in its 42 years Mad
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Tue May 12, 2009 6:50 am

    here you go,,,,,,the 2 small terminals on the starter are "R" and "S",,,,the "S" wire is from the ignition switch,,,,,(through the safety neutral switch on an automatic.),,,,,,,,,and the "R" has the wire from the resistance wire on it as well as the yellow one that goes to the positive side of the coil,,,,,,when the starter is cranking, it sends 12 volts out the yellow wire,,,,,when the starter is off, it lets the 6 volts in that resistance wire go up and run the coil,,,,,


    voltage regulator Soleno10

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