Which engine to swap in?

I currently have a 64 van with the 170 6 cylinder and am thinking of upgrading to a 200. What would all be involved and which year motor would bolt up to the bellhousing for the 3 speed? because I know they changed throughout the years

All 200's with the exception of the 80-83 low mount starter blocks should be fine. In 66 or so they added bell housing holes for the larger 9" clutch bellhousing, but our vans have the small pattern bell 8.5" clutch all 67 and on 200 blocks have both patterns. So any 200 but the low mount, gray block 80-83 should be fine.

I'm not a Ford guy, but can you at least swap in a 250?

200 cubes is not much better than 170. Still gonna be a slug

I realize it won't be much of an upgrade as far as horsepower goes but I mainly like the 7 main bearing design over the 4 main 170 which I feel will handle performance upgrades (turbo?)better and run smoother...

The 250 is a lot more work, esp in a pre 65 van.

You've answered your own question. The 140 and 170 engines are not worth salvaging(IMO). The 200 is a way better engine than those other two. Seven main bearings,the main advantage, tells the story. A mildly built 200 will generate more horsepower than a "stock" 302, and weighs a lot less. A 250 is a completely different engine. The 250 supports small block transmissions---so you would need to swap in a new tranny, driveshaft, etc. Unfortunately, the deck height is also too tall---creating doghouse issues. In this regard, a 302 would be a better choice. An early 200 engine would bolt right in and be a huge improvement over you 170.
Good luck Mike

I'm doing a 2.0l ecoboost with a 6 speed manual. There's, let's say, challenges.......but a fun swap I think. Customer is waffleing but I might keep it myself.

I'm in the same boat brother. I picked up a 65 HD last week, ran the door plate and thought I had a 240. Found out it had been swapped for a 170. I know a guy who has a running 64 200ci out of a Mustang for $500 with 3 speed on the floor. After reading this thread, think I'll give him a call.

Make sure it's got 5 freeze plugs or a 5/16" oil pump drive. If it has 5 freeze plugs it should have the larger pump drive and will have 7 main bearings. I've read anecdotal reports of early 200's with bored 170 blocks w/ the 1/4" drive oil pumps(can't upgrade the carb/dist/ignition well) and 64 is as early as it gets. The late seventies 200's are the best candidates b/c they have better heads with more intake tract volume, larger intake valves, hardened exhaust seats and electronic ignitions. But pre ~72 had forged rods and better castings and iron. 69-72 mavericks are good candidates. You can still find 4 doors that were never rebuilt lying around, junk since forever. Anything after 68 is better. Ford switched the ignition from load-o-matic to standard dual advance and changed the log intake to a larger size with a larger carb opening in 68 and 69 for the latter.

Thank you for the info, I'll check it out. Any idea how many freeze plugs the 170 has? I can't seem to verify which motor I have. I called Ford and gave them the block numbers and they said could be a 170 or 200. That wasn't a lot of help. Thanks in advance.

What are the block #'s? They're on the drivers side of the block, below and in between the oil pressure port and the coil.

The 144, 170 and earliest 200's have 3 'freeze' plugs and 4 main bearings. All blocks with 5 plugs have 7 mains and the later distributor and oil pump. At some point around 66 they added the larger 9" bell pattern.

C6DE 6015-B.

C6 is a 66 block, it should be 5 core plugs and seven main bearings as I understand it. Someone swapped the motor in that car or it's late production. You can't get a C6 engine in a C4 or 5 car.

Make sure it's got 5 plugs. It's not inconceivable that a 170 could end up in 200 equipped car b/c they are easily mistaken, and 170-144 moreso. But a C6 170 may be better that a C1 170, b/c they got the larger pump drive and hydraulic lifter capable at some point(s).

I just double checked and it has 5 freeze plugs. So that means it's a 200 right? Does that also mean it's a good platform to start my build on? I'm stoked to get this info friend. Thanks a million.

Yeah thats a good platform if it's a virgin block. Are you planning on rebuilding it or dropping in a runner?

Do a compression test and a leak down(if needed) and you will know what you need to know, esp if you want to run it as is, but in general for sure. Once you pull the head you'll know if it's ever been bored. I wouldn't spend alot of money on the head. Cheapest valve job. Instead, focus on the bottom end and look for a later head. Preferably a D7 head, but C9 on is good, if you are rebuilding/going through

The van has been sitting for about 17 years. I put miracle oil in all cylinders and soaked for a couple days. Pulled plugs and blew out oil into rags. Put back old plugs, had friend pour gas into carb while I figured out what wires to touch together. BAM! Fired right up. Ran it for a minute then shut her down. Sounded pretty dang good too. I'll do a compression test tomorrow. What number should I be shooting for?

Above 120 is good, the main thing is that they are all about the same and no dead hole or big variations. Within 10% is good, even if it's low it shows even wear. That's where the leak down test comes in. To figure out if it's in the rings or the valves, especially in the dead spot.

Sounds like a candidate. Nothing like hearing it run

When you do the test, if you've never done it, make sure all the plugs are out and the throttle is wide open when you do. It's good to disconnect or pinch the fuel line, but unless you empty the bowl or pull the carb, gas is coming and will be in the air. Be advised and disconnect the coil.

Gotcha. Thank you.

Yeah, no smoking

Hey Seth, does it mean anything if my block numbers are on passenger side?

If you are referring to the number on the head's log manifold, those are for the head, not the block. 5 freeze plugs, I think it's a safe bet that that block has 7 mains.

Welp, compression test came out bad. Motor has 3 holes with about 35 psi. Bought a 200 out of a 66 Mustang and put it in last night. Getting new clutch tomorrow and will try to reinstall tranny tomorrow night. Last owner built his own tranny hangers out of 1/4 inch steel. Just 2 plates with holes drilled in them. Any pics of what it supposed to look like would be helpful. I bought the original shop manual but the pic looks different than mine. I might be missing some parts. Its a 65HD with 3 on the tree. Cheers.

I got the 200 installed in the 65 HD but the bell housing wont fit on the 3 speed tranny. The motor I removed wasn't the original either, but it matched up fine. The old bellhousing wont bolt onto the new 200 either. The Mustang motor was bolted to a 3 speed manual. Any help would be great. I got the tranny rebuilt, bought a brand new clutch and installed a new 200 with only 80k on it. Also installed new floor pans. After sitting for 20 years this thing is about ready to roll. Thanks guys
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