2 piece pulley separated?

Here's a diagram for 3G alternator wiring. The field wire is the blk/white wire that comes from the regulator "S" and jumps over to the S terminal on the alternator. If you start squealing pull that wire and see if it stops. Then while the engine is still running, check to see what voltage is on that wire, if it's 12v there is a problem with the regulator, assuming everything is wired correctly like in the diagram.

To check the timing chain you'll simply need to unbolt and remove the timing cover and look at it. It will be obvious if it has a lot of slop. It may be better to pay someone to do the job who has the experience and tools to do it properly. It's not a hard job though. You may need a puller to get the timing sprockets off. Align the timing marks on the sprockets by rotating the engine. Then compare the new sprockets to the old to ensure they are marked the same in relation to the key slot in their bores. If all is good put them with the chain on ensuring the timing dots are aligned, torque the cam sprocket bolt to spec, replace the crank snout seal in the timing cover and reassemble. Hint, some of the timing cover bolts are on the bottom through the oil pan. Good Luck

The chart is for all the ways to hook up the alternator for different cars and trucks,,,,,,but the important part is that little wire that connects to the alternator, called the black/white, S stator wire here,,,,,,make sure you did not mix up the wires and put a 12 volt wire to it,,,,,,that wire turns the alternator on,,,,,,,and if it gets 12 volts sent to it, that tells the alternator to put out the full 130 amps ,,,,,,and that kinda takes a V8 engine to turn it,,,,,,,probably the heat from the radiator and oil leaks through the years weakened that rubber seal and that alternator, which is REALLY hard to turn, just spun it apart,,,,,,

so Seth,,,,,,is this what he got?????

Pretty much similar at least. There will be an oil slinger on the crank snout that will need to be slid off. Torque spec for the cam gear bolt is 42-45 ft/lbs. The timing set *should* slide right off with a little wiggling. If the engine is all gunked and sludged up it may be a little more difficult.





And yeah, like Don said, the wiring doesn't have to be exactly like in the diagram. But it should be mostly similar. The yellow A wire could technically be wired directly to the Bat/B+/battery output post on the alternator. That wire is the voltage sensing wire. The other wire, the I wire, should go to the wire that used to connect to the I terminal on the old regulator. The old regulator should be in the garbage. Take your time when you are tracing all the wiring for it. It helps to draw a picture as you go.

Basically on the regulator(bolted to the alternator ) the A should go to a 12v source somewhat directly to/from the battery. The S is your regulator output that varies voltage to control the alternator output, the I starts and stops the regulator/alternator if it's 12v+ signal is lost, then becoming a ground and illuminating the ALT light when that happens. The resister wired across the light in the diagram is to ensure the alternator keeps working if the bulb were to be failed for some reason thereby opening the cuicuit, the resistor keeps it closed enough by simulating the resistance of the bulb and burning the tiny bit of power off with heat in that bulb failure scenario. It's like an exciter signal.

And as you can see in the picture, the key slots will align when the timing is at tdc. It's a 2:1 ratio between the crank sprocket and the cam gear, hence the 4 strokes, the two alignments, dots aligned and aligned with the cam gear dot 180 off on the cam gear, twice....compression, FIRE, exhaust, suck air/fuel and so on. When the dots align #1 cylinder is in the peak of it's compression stroke or it's 180 deg off(exhaust) It's pushing iow and the valve calls the tune from the cam.  

I'm sorry if I'm oversimplifying things, no assumption or offense intended. It helps to visualize it and there's always those that don't understand, yet

Ohh man! I didn't get notification that this thread is still going! Thanks guys! I may hold off on the timing stuff for now (that may be a bit over my head & i really haven't done my due diligence at the current moment)

From the front look into the engine the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer spins clockwise. The breaker-bar wedged against the ground broke the seal & i spun the bolt off. *stoked*

Now I need to get a different pulley puller, as the one I currently have (with gripping clasps) can't bite the back of the pulley... looks like i need the type where metal plate w/bolts creates a pressing pressure rather than a pulling pressure.

If its this difficult to pull, is it going to be equally difficult to press in... or should it slide in w/when lubed? Any suggested grease?

well,,,if you dont have a puller,,,,,maybe put a bolt with a washer on it in one of the holes,,,,,put the crank bolt in then use a big screwdriver or bar to pry on the washer using the crank bolt as the pivot,,,,,you might have to move the bolt to another hole,,,,,just see if that motivates the pulley to slide off,,,,,,,

The holes are threaded, 5/16"? Bluesteel, you can pick up the puller cheap from your local Harbor Freight, will be fine for your needs.

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/pullers/bolt-type-wheel-puller-set-69889.html

My local Advance Auto Parts  store has the Loan-a-tool program.  You have to pay a deposit, but it is all refunded when you return it. Oreilly and Autozone have the same program. I used the puller from them when I rebuilt my 200 and it made a tough job WAY easier. Pretty good way to get the right tools without spending a potful of cash.

alright, I got the inner pulley of the harmonic balancer off (check). Now i'm putting the new one back on but it won't slide on. In the bore of the new harmonic balancer there seems the be a lip??? The initial 1/2 inch slides on, but after that inner diameter tightens up a bit... it looks intentional as its uniform and machined that way. I pushed as hard as I could but to no avail. Im tempted to use the bolt to try to press it back in, but i'm not entirely sure thats what I should be doing...

any thoughts?

ohh now i just saw this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R7BuijqjcUk

You may be encountering a problem where the key is interfacing with the groove, which is about a 1/2" in . You have to have it clocked in such a way that they align perfectly. You don't want to damage that key's end by hammering or forcing it or you'll have a hell of a time. Get a mirror and a flashlight and try and have a look at that key and ensure it's seated and you aren't banging up against it, or use your pinky if it will fit in there to feel where the end of the key is. Mark it's clock position on the end of the crank w/ a sharpie. It may be helpful to relieve the groove gently with a very fine file or emery at it's open end on the new balancer. Be careful as you go through that lip seal. It really shouldn't be that tight until it gets further on and problems with or tolerance of the key or groove is usually what makes it tight as it slides further in. It sounds like you aren't on the key yet. Do not use a tool to force the balance on until you are absolutely sure the key is well in the groove. Good luck!


This is for a 240-300 but it is basically the same. You can see the woodruff key there. Being a woodruff key it can pop up slightly and give you some trouble.

Aye! That was a bear, after some steps & missteps I finally got my harmonic balancer back on, tried hammering it in & that didn't seem to work very well, so I ended up finding out that AutoZone had a Harmonic Balancer installer tool that worked like a charm (i was a bit apprehensive as the Amazon reviews for said tool all said the the tool broke in the crankshaft lol). Anywho I got harmonic balancer on & the van put back together (radiator bracket, radiator & fan back in) but now back to the problem of the belt squealing when i give it gas

well i've taken the radiator & fan off so many times I know next time it wont take nearly as long lol

Thanks everyone for the help!!!

Back to my original problem, the alternator pulley maybe 1/16 (or less) of an inch out from the other pulleys