Ok, got the circlip off but the piston seems to be hitting a lip or a limit. It won't pop out. What am I missing?
+3
scarlin
Twinpilot001
bugman
7 posters
'67 Master Cylinder Rebuild
bugman- Number of posts : 72
Location : connecticut
Registration date : 2011-12-17
- Post n°1
'67 Master Cylinder Rebuild
Twinpilot001- Number of posts : 6186
Location : spokane ,Wa.
Registration date : 2009-09-28
- Post n°2
Re: '67 Master Cylinder Rebuild
corosion!!!!!!!!!!!!!! use compressed air to drive it out & be sure to cover the piston area with a rag so the piston dont go flying off to the MOON!!
scarlin- Number of posts : 258
Location : sturgis mi
Registration date : 2012-01-25
- Post n°3
Re: '67 Master Cylinder Rebuild
A small screw needs to be removed, on the bottom by the outlet in the middle. If you don't have one it is stuck. Have it re sleeved with a brass inside, just a kit may not work long due to rust and pitting.
Sam
66 Falcon
67 EPUP
Sam
66 Falcon
67 EPUP
bugman- Number of posts : 72
Location : connecticut
Registration date : 2011-12-17
- Post n°4
Re: '67 Master Cylinder Rebuild
The piston moves freely in the sleeve and I don't see a screw anywhere on the bottom of the cylinder, could it be hanging up on the circlip slot?
mexbob- Number of posts : 19
Location : Hermosillo, Sonora, Mexico
Registration date : 2014-11-15
- Post n°5
Re: '67 Master Cylinder Rebuild
bugman- Number of posts : 72
Location : connecticut
Registration date : 2011-12-17
- Post n°6
Re: '67 Master Cylinder Rebuild
Same but different. Ours has the outlets at the side and the rear has the port for the light switch. No set screw either.
econopoor- Econoline Guru
- Number of posts : 1747
Location : Jackson TN
Registration date : 2010-04-18
- Post n°7
Re: '67 Master Cylinder Rebuild
Some have screws and some don't. I have three cores here and I can't get any of them apart. I assume it's just corrosion between the cups.
bugman- Number of posts : 72
Location : connecticut
Registration date : 2011-12-17
- Post n°8
Re: '67 Master Cylinder Rebuild
We're soaking it in brake cleaner, hopefully it jars some of what we think is crud loose.
bugman- Number of posts : 72
Location : connecticut
Registration date : 2011-12-17
- Post n°9
Re: '67 Master Cylinder Rebuild
Got it. Not too bad looking inside. The quest goes on!
bobby light- Number of posts : 47
Location : Hemet,CA
Registration date : 2014-09-13
- Post n°10
Re: '67 Master Cylinder Rebuild
I honed my 67 cylinder and popped a rebuild kit in. Brakes are rock solid now! Sure a re-sleeve is the way to go, but this will get me by for now
Old Skool- Econoline Guru
- Number of posts : 1306
Location : North Hills, CA
Age : 72
Registration date : 2009-06-13
- Post n°11
Re: '67 Master Cylinder Rebuild
I rebuild them and have been for years and have yet to get lucky enough to not have to sleeve them. Normally the pitting is always there and one more reason I invented the remote reservoir conversion kit for the 67 M/C. The OEM cap has two slits under the bolt which Ford put there as a vent for the bellows inside. When I get the pictures organized again it shows how Ford TRIED to create a part inside of the cap in order to put pressure on that part of the bellow/seal. Unfortunately, it didn't work and any water that gets on top of the M/C goes into those vent slots and into and around the bolt itself, eventually finding its way into the cylinder bore and pitting it. Brake fluid is a magnet for water with just the atmosphere let alone water getting in there. The kit that I designed replaces the cap and gives you also a remote reservoir... no water and easy to check it..... If someone has a copy of the picture I would appreciate posting it as it shows the details.
"THAT BOLT" is actually called a "PISTON STOP" and used before Ford realized that it was not needed. The measurement distance for the assembled front piston is very critical as it needs to position the cup correctly in order for the fluid to return into the reservoir. You can rebuild the piston and simply replace the rubber cups if you know how and also have access to the parts in bulk from a supplier. Ford first put the piston stop there in order to guarantee that it would be correct and then found out it wasn't necessary when you assemble the piston back together with the correct measurement.
I have not gotten my pictures back into albums AGAIN and am backing it all up this time. With over 4,000 pictures it took over three months the last time,,, (in my spare time, LOL),,,, anyways,, working on them again.
Old Skool
"THAT BOLT" is actually called a "PISTON STOP" and used before Ford realized that it was not needed. The measurement distance for the assembled front piston is very critical as it needs to position the cup correctly in order for the fluid to return into the reservoir. You can rebuild the piston and simply replace the rubber cups if you know how and also have access to the parts in bulk from a supplier. Ford first put the piston stop there in order to guarantee that it would be correct and then found out it wasn't necessary when you assemble the piston back together with the correct measurement.
I have not gotten my pictures back into albums AGAIN and am backing it all up this time. With over 4,000 pictures it took over three months the last time,,, (in my spare time, LOL),,,, anyways,, working on them again.
Old Skool