FSR Aluminum Radiator Install (Model 155360)

After having my original radiator recored in my 67 slant six A100, and after a years use the tank seams having split on top, and side brackets coming loose (not soldered good enough) not to mention running hot even when it was not blowing seams or coming apart, I decided to look for an alternative in aluminum. Searching this forum and the yahoo group led me to give FSR a try. (Model 155360 2 Port "Tug" Radiator)
Normally my vans temp gauge would steadily climb to about 220-230 at highway speeds, only dropping below 200 when running at slower speeds below 60mph. I have been running the stock shroud with a heavy duty 15" flex fan that has thick steel main blades with smaller stainless flex blades attached.
I installed the FSR yesterday, test drove it some, and put it to the real test today down the interstate (70 miles round trip in 90+ degree heat, speeds up to 80-90mph)
The temp at idle for prolonmged periods was about 195, once underway at up to 55mph temp was at about 172-180 (w/180 thermostat) I could watch the temps rise up to around 180 and then they would drop a little as the thermostat was functioning.
Today the same thing, yet on the highway at higher speeds the temp ran between 182-190 degrees the whole time, this at runs of about 80-90+ mph for extended periods. This in air temps of about 70 in the morning and 90+ in the afternoon. Also, I am using no shroud. Needless to say, I am impressed. My cooling issues are no more! Wish I would have done this sooner. What follows are the pictures I took as I installed the radiator, along with the supplies I used and various modifications I did to fit it.

Lorin

Supplies I Used:


Part Number 155360 FSR 2 Port "Tug" Radiator (Listed under "Ground Support Equipment" on their site)

Radiator Flex Hoses:

Upper from Advance Auto PN 1217 (1 1/2" ends x 17 1/4" long)
Lower from Autozone PN 81271 (1 3/4" and 1 1/2" ends x 22" long)
A 24" long lower would be best if you can find one.

From Lowe's:

(4) 3/8"-16 x 1 1/4" grade 5 bolts (to mount rad. to vehicle)
(4) 3/8" x 1 1/2" fender washers (for above bolts)
(2) 3/8" x 1/2" x 1" Hillman steel spacers (these fit inside the rubber grommets)
(4) 1/4" flat washers (additional for alum. brackets to radiator core mounting)
(4) 1/4" lock washers (as above)


Tools Used:

Jigsaw with steel cutting blade (to cut off one flange on each mounting bracket)
Hacksaw (to cut the Hillman spacers in half)
Drill w/various sized bits (to drill one new monting hole in each bracket)
Bastard File (to make a notch for throttle rod clearance, debur edges, etc)
Tape measure!
Die grinder (to enlarge one mounting hole on each bracket...No die grinder-use files)

Use the jigsaw to cut off this flange, then file smooth.

Use a file or grinder to make a notch about 1" wide and at least 1/4" deep so throttle rod has clearance. Use a grinder or file to elongate the hole about 1/4" (green line)

Drill a new hole (the large hole at the top) in each bracket for the upper rubber mounting grommets.

Enlarge the smaller hole on each bracket to the same diameter as the one next to it. (offers a little more wiggle room upon assembly)

Install the aluminum brackets as shown, using a flat washer, lock washer, and bolt with loctite blue. Don't over tighten and strip the threads in the radiator. Cut the Hillman spacers in half, debur, remove the existing steel spacers supplied in the rubber grommets. Install grommets into the holes, insert the spacers into the grommets. Remove the brass fittings from old radiator and install in new one. Tighten the overflow nipple if needed.

Apply two lengths of camper seal weatherstriping on the bottom of the lower tank (this will sit on top of the belly pan)

Cut a length of sponge rubber to fill between the grommets.

Radiator is ready to install.

Side by side. Use the same center to center mounting hole dimensions taken from the frame on the truck. Don't trust the measurements from your old radiator.

Use a grinder or file to make a small notch for the upper outlet clearance.

Radiator installed with good clearance all around. Might want to fab some aluminum diamond plate to close off the opening in front and top of radiator to keep airflow flowing through radiator.

View from below. Fits beautifully.

I'll give more specific details and measurements later. And, this is just one man's improvised way of doing it, there are many ways to go about it obviously.

thanks for the post. great job. this realy helps, i spoke to gary yesterday and gona order it today..

Very cool. Thank you for sharing!!!! Can't wait for the measurements, this may be a "Fix-All" for all earlies! $$$ COST? $$$

http://fsrproducts.com/fsrradiator/tugs.html

Thanks,
Dan

just a thought....but how about if someone who lives close to the place where they make these rad´s would take them an original a100 radiator (if someone has an extra one) and they could take the measures and make one straight to fit...
i for example would buy one immideately.
and i don´t think it would more expensive than this one.

Great reply and install on this. Luckily, my old stocker rad is fine, but if I ever need one this is a good back-up way to go. Looking at this I would have installed it a little higher than you did, but then you'd have to chop out alot more for the hose to fit. But then again, sitting lower may help to get more flow for better cooling? All in all it seems like a straight forward swap with some minor detail stuff to make it work.
Also, you say you have no shroud! Do you have one and just not installed yet with the new rad or what?? Looks like a great rad.

69A100 wrote:Great reply and install on this. Luckily, my old stocker rad is fine, but if I ever need one this is a good back-up way to go. Looking at this I would have installed it a little higher than you did, but then you'd have to chop out alot more for the hose to fit. But then again, sitting lower may help to get more flow for better cooling? All in all it seems like a straight forward swap with some minor detail stuff to make it work.
Also, you say you have no shroud! Do you have one and just not installed yet with the new rad or what?? Looks like a great rad.

I've got the original shroud, and the only way to make it fit on the new radiator would be to make notch cuts on the bottom angled section to make clearance for the outlet, and fittings. My shroud is almost perfect, not all bent up etc. I figure it's better to fab someting else than mod rare stuff, but that's just me. And, like you said, keeping it low seemed to me to be a better option to keep more surface area in the direct airflow.

And if one wanted, they could utilize the notch for the original radiatior hose for clearance to run a cold air intake setup, similar to this:


there's a lot of room with the radiator siiting lower:





Anyway, after today with 100 degree temps, I was doing 85 mph and the temp gauge sat at 190 the whole time down the interstate, and at stops it only climbed to near 200. Again on the backroads it was at 180...I'm not really concerned with running a shroud now as these temps we're having down here are not the norm, and after the years of what I've dealt with, I'm dumbfounded with the improvement.

Lorin

Henrik wrote:just a thought....but how about if someone who lives close to the place where they make these rad´s would take them an original a100 radiator (if someone has an extra one) and they could take the measures and make one straight to fit...
i for example would buy one immideately.
and i don´t think it would more expensive than this one.

That is an idea, I'm not far from them, I have a radiator....maybe someone is closer? Really the various mods are minor, but to have a straight bolt in affair would be nice as not everyone cares to fab and mod stuff

very nice post, thanks for putting it up

Side question
Is that a orginal air intake that is modified. Or is that a after market setup.
I am running a k&n type and believe the fuel is being cooked by the heat when i turn the engine off. Van smalls like fuel if windows are rolled up.
Thanks Dan

69A108 wrote:Side question
Is that a orginal air intake that is modified. Or is that a after market setup.
I am running a k&n type and believe the fuel is being cooked by the heat when i turn the engine off. Van smalls like fuel if windows are rolled up.
Thanks Dan

The picture with the cold air intake is one I pinched off an early Chevy van related posting. I made my own ram air set-up, including air cleaner, last summer, but it draws from the outer corner of the grill opening on the passenger side, and the hose routes under the frame rail and up into the doghouse (on the passenger side rear corner) to the airbox.

Regarding the fuel boiling, I previously used the seatbelt latch to hold the doghose cover slightly open with windows cracked to vent the heat when parked. Now I just use the prop rod everytime so it's wide open and I really don't have that problem anymore.

Lorin

69A108 wrote:Side question
Is that a orginal air intake that is modified. Or is that a after market setup.
I am running a k&n type and believe the fuel is being cooked by the heat when i turn the engine off. Van smalls like fuel if windows are rolled up.
Thanks Dan

"carb percolation".

I had/have that same problem with my A and spent a lot of time working on a fix. That's a big effort in GA, it was over 100 here all last week. My van will do ok until temps get steady into the 90's and then it gets a little more tricky.

Mine would cook off and flood the van and it wouldnt start, theres not a lot you can do after you turn the van off and it sits because of "heat soak" due to poor circulation in the dog house.

In short, a combination of things helped fix my problem and Ill throw those out for you below:
1) my fuel line was routed down the frame rail by passenger side exhaust manifold. I put in an electric fuel pump back by the trans on the frame rail and re-routed the fuel lines up the back of the doghouse by the distributor.

2) put in a 160 thermostat

3) used a foil heat sleeve over the fuel line in the dog house.

4) added a "cabinet grade maple" 1/2" thick wood carb spacer under the card, since phenolic spacers aren't available for the carter BBD "old rochester pattern".

5) changed to a heavy duty / high flow fan

Ill add something I just remembered about that carb perc problem=As we all here agree with changing that fuel filter we had in plastic(fire hazzard) & have gone to the metal type= ill add from experiences- i have also reloacated the metal fuel filters away from the engine compartment. Those things are nothing short of a fuel heat sink in the engine areas!!

69A108 wrote:Side question
Is that a orginal air intake that is modified. Or is that a after market setup.
Thanks Dan

This is the setup I fab'd.



There's massive airflow into the airbox

Thanks for the advice. I am definitely going to work on this. Will update.
Dan

IWS67 hey bud....if you have a few extra minutes some time down the road could you give me some kind of clue as to how I could come up with my own version of an intake setup for my small 170 slant? A rough idea and supplies needed would be a damn big help,GOD knows when you'll read this but i'm not anywhere near a hurry...Thank a billion,Chris.

Very nice work, and I love all of the info!!!

van go wrote:IWS67 hey bud....if you have a few extra minutes some time down the road could you give me some kind of clue as to how I could come up with my own version of an intake setup for my small 170 slant? A rough idea and supplies needed would be a damn big help,GOD knows when you'll read this but i'm not anywhere near a hurry...Thank a billion,Chris.

I think I have photos somewhere on my computer, I'll see if I can find them. Most of the materials were sourced from Lowes. I made the airbox/cleaner out of spare sheetmetal I had on hand, the flex hose was scrap I got from a hose manufacturer in the area. The whole setup was improvised as I went, but it works and is holding up well. I'll post when I get things together

The tug idea sounds good,looks good....it's a toss up between yours and stoopid johns set up.....with his he had to buy aluminum stock,cut it to match the old brackets and put em on the rad with sheet metal screws...not sure how that'll hold up....anyway....doesn't matter...we love this van and it's getting a fresh aluminum radiator regardless...
thanks for responding....i'll figure out air induction/escape solutions as I go along,your induction idea is clever....i'll have to learn some fabrication/sheetmetal welding,go from there.It takes guts for a green van fan/owner to start cuttin and fabin on these earlies...I pray to CHRIST to give me the courage and confidence to try.