New guy A108

Blackyck - did you get the tie rod installed yet, just curious.

busman78 wrote:Blackyck - did you get the tie rod installed yet, just curious.

Yep got it installed and it was easy breezy. Only weird part was the shaft that goes up is a tiny bit short than the stock one. Had to run the crown nut upside down to get the cotter pin in. So far so good, but havent driven in really.


Just came up on a rebuilt carb and electronic ignition!

New update. No pics really. Swapped fuse blocks, installed dist with electronic ingition and rebuilt carb. Running like an absolute champ now! Put in a stereo. Found rear pop out window trim lock seals at the auto swap meet for $1 a foot. Will take some pics and post them.

glad you got it straightened out, cant wait to see some pictures

Blackyck wrote:New update. No pics really. Swapped fuse blocks, installed dist with electronic ingition and rebuilt carb. Running like an absolute champ now! Put in a stereo. Found rear pop out window trim lock seals at the auto swap meet for $1 a foot. Will take some pics and post them.

You are on a roll!  Nice work.

Now, if you are talking about the pop out window weatherstrip rubber by the foot, I'm all ears and eyes.    I need to get enough for 2 windows.

Window pop out seal. $1 a foot at swap. Score! Works great.


New rebuilt carb. New radiator hoses cause one sprung a leak as I was pulling into the driveway at least and not stranded somewhere. Electronic ignition hiding in the distributor.



The the bummer of my weekend.....changed out the leaf spring bushings, had to pull the leaf springs to get to the front bushings. Decided to pull the drag/steering link, make it easier to get to get in there and to clean up the link. Well that bitch does not want to come out. Front no problem, but the rear will not come free. I've fucked up the threads now so it has to come out so I can fix it. Tried a tie rod wrench tool and a puller. Won't budge. Gonna try to find a different kind of puller and see if I can get it out and try to repair the threads. Doesn't seem like there are many options for replacements out there.

You may want to try Autozone, Advance Auto or similar for the tools to remove it. They have various kits they loan out for free. I tried to swap out the front spring bushings with the rear shackles bolted up too. No go, had to basically drop the whole front end to do it. Manual didn't mention that!

Turn your wheel until you can get a hammer on the steering arm where the drag link goes through it. Hit the round end of the steering arm where the tapered shaft goes through. This should pop the tapered shaft of the end of the drag link right out. Don't hit the drag link. Just the arm. The taper is what holds them together. By hitting the end of the arm it releases the tension of the taper breaking the hold. Knock it hard. You won't hurt it. Hit it right and it just pops off. Might take a few hits. 5 pound sledge works great for this.

Duane in Tennessee

econopoor wrote:Turn your wheel until you can get a hammer on the steering arm where the drag link goes through it. Hit the round end of the steering arm where the tapered shaft goes through. This should pop the tapered shaft of the end of the drag link right out. Don't hit the drag link. Just the arm. The taper is what holds them together. By hitting the end of the arm it releases the tension of the taper breaking the hold. Knock it hard. You won't hurt it. Hit it right and it just pops off. Might take a few hits. 5 pound sledge works great for this.

Duane in Tennessee

f*ck YEAH THAT WORKED!

Many thanks my man.

Tried to repair the old drag link. Not happy with it. Dropped the $250 on a new one. Looks solid to me not sure what everyones gripe is with these.

Also been leaking oil lately. I think its coming from the oil pan. Picked up a new seal and one for the tranny pan too.

I have cork gaskets on mine with no problems, just be sure to flatten out the holes were the bolts go through the pans and don't over tighten them,

Take a hammer to the holes first to flatten them?

Is there a torque setting I should be utilizing to make sure I do not over tighten them?

Thank U for the tips.

the trany pan is 150 in.-lbs and the engine oil pan is 15 ft.-lbs,, don't forget to drain the converter too, there is a plug in it also, and yes use a ballpeen hammer to straighten both pans

don't use any silicone to hold the trany gasket in place while installing it, if you need something to keep it in place use a little bearing grease, most gaskets come with smaller bolt holes so the bolts will hold it in place while you install the pan,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-DODGE-A-100-108-COMPACT-VAN-SPORTSMAN-PICKUP-SHOP-SERVICE-MANUAL-WIRING-/360896086321?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item5407154131&vxp=mtr
you need one of these they have everything you need about your van, all kinds if tightening specs, everyone who has a van should have one, there really a must have,

Thanks man I have 2 books actually. I was just looking for any tips. Those books tend to be a little vague sometimes.


Why no sealer on the tranny pan?

if it squeezes out inside it can do some damage and plug up the valve body, a little on the engine oil pan is ok,

Put the drag link in. Oh man what a differance that made! I never really thought my steering was bad, but its so smooth now.

On to the oil pan.....

Finally, "what a drag" is a good thing for someone!  Except the cost.  Not cheap, that's for sure, but it sounds like you have zero regrets.  Nice work.


Tip. I seal my cork gaskets with gasgacinch before installation. Prevents the cork from being oil saturated.  You must coat the EDGES of the gasket, not just the flat. (paper or fiber gaskets too)  

(Edelbrock bought them out I think)
http://www.gasgacinch.com/gasgacinch_003.htm
http://www.amazon.com/Edelbrock-9300-Gasgacinch-Gasket-Sealer/dp/B000CNAV1I

dodge man wrote:the trany pan is 150 in.-lbs  and the engine oil pan is 15 ft.-lbs,, don't forget to drain the converter too, there is a plug in it also, and yes use a ballpeen hammer to straighten both pans

I cannot stress the 150 INCH POUND spec on the tranny pan..do not go over that ever...buy, get or borrow a good torque wrench and adhere to that spec..good luck with your project-god speed

Update.....didnt touch the tranny pan. Not really leaking, but the new oil pan seal is working out great! Only get a drop here and there. Ripped up the carpet to find paper thin sheet metal screwed down to cover rust damage. Time for surgery.

Houston we have a problem.

been running the van as is all summer. the extra air flow has been nice!
time to handle this issue.



went to pull the front of the doghouse. didn't realize the radiator needs to come out as well. might as well put in a new one while I'm in there. just ordered this up after a shit ton of searching.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Garage-Sale-Universal-Aluminum-Radiator-27-Inch-Tall-Driver-Side-Outlet,105544.html

thinking about tunneling the front of the van too since so much of the section in front of the doghouse is rusted out. my buddy did it on his chevy. seems pretty straight forward.

Forgot to post some pics of the big girl after I had her satin clear coated and the bumpers straightened and powder coated.

Beautiful stance!!!