New guy A108

When I was messing with the fuse box I inadvertently put the wrong fuse in the instrument lights. Switched it out and the lights are working again. Even got the license plate lights rewired and working.

I was more looking for help on the door switches. I can't find any info on how they work. There is no info in my book or online really.

Also the VR fusible link that was fried, shouldn't this only have to be something faulty with the alternator or VR? It's the old 2 tab style with the links inside. Will take some pics.



Yeah a full rewire will happen someday, just not yet.

Pretty sure some bulbs I have are the wrong amps for the fuses. Might be an issue. Obviously was for the dash lights.

Been awhile since I checked in. All my electrical has been working fine. I gave up on the door switches I can't seem to find out how they work. No biggie.
I do need to change out my fuse box. Thing is hammered. Anybody got ideas on replacements or tips?

Also worked/learned on some tune up techniques with my pops. Learned how to use some tools he gave me awhile back. Adjusted the timing, found out my carb is leaking. Just ordered a rebuild kit.

Also changed out the right tie rod end. Can't seem to find the lefts anywhere? Again anybody know a good resource?

looking at a photo my guess is the right and left tie rod are the same. regardind your inside light on the one photo you show a female plug test that with a test light and the headlight switch, if it works then the new button switch needs to be installed to pick up the ground and also check the interrior bulbs

B, one tie rod end is regular right hand thread, the other is left hand thread and is hard to find. The reason for the different threads is so the clamps can be loosened and then the tie rod turned to adjust the length, setting toe. If they were both right hand thread, you would have to remove one to adjust, and be limited to only a full turn to adjust.

I'd start with the usual parts stores and try to get a number to cross-reference.
The Right hand one is Raybestos 401-1022. The other is probably Raybestos 401-1021. 23 is a Chevy application.
MOOG is ES140R, the other would seem to be a ES140L, but that one is way different (Jeep).
Find out any other brand and numbers and do searches. Also find the OE part number and look for it too.
If all that fails, try the specialty parts places. There is www.arizonaparts.com
www.kanter.com does not show one.
robwerts motor parts doesn't either.
I did find this thread when searching
http://forums.aaca.org/f120/dodge-a100-parts-interchange-question-288759.html
It mentions Rare Parts. Give them a try. Also, when you do find a source, share it with others here!

I just found an old thread from 2008 on this too, with more info
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/archive/index.php?t-198660.html

Spent some time chatting with Moog technical department since there is a considerable number of part numbers tossed around on the web with yes and no's as to fitting for tie rods.

From an early 1980's Moog Steering & Suspension Catalog

Right Side - ES288R 11/16-18 RHT

Left Side - ES342L 11/16-18 LHT

Beyond that the most critical measurement is for the stud taper, both right and left rods have the same, makes that easy:

Small End .543"

Large End .627

Length of Taper .672

This works out to 1.5" of taper per foot, which is also 7*, which seems to be a popular taper in that Ford & GM also use that taper but not with the same small/ large and length of taper.

Scanning the current specs for available tie rods from Moog there are none that have the same Small/Large or length of taper. Did not find the specs for the ES140R to verify if it was truly a match or just one that seems to work.

If anybody has the specs for that tie rod I would be interested in getting them.

RodStRace wrote:I did find this thread when searching
http://forums.aaca.org/f120/dodge-a100-parts-interchange-question-288759.html
It mentions Rare Parts. Give them a try. Also, when you do find a source, share it with others here!  

Rod, that was my post on the AACA forum and just to update you all I still have not come up with a cost effective solution yet and am still looking. Rare Parts is an option but the cost of having them replicate the tie rod end, which they will do, is not a cheap solution. Scott...

Rod thanks for picking that up and the explaining it. I was not thinking,Try these #'s  SCOTT.
(LEFT SIDE )                           
MOOG ES288L                  
TRW   ES288L                    
RARE PARTS  25443            
NAPA NCP 2692078        
(RIGHT SIDE)
MOOG ES288R
TRW ES288R
RARE PARTS 25239
NAPA NCP2692079      

Thanks all! Crazy that we can easily get the right one and can't get the left.

Anybody got a fuse box recommendations?

rebel wire kits have them or any hot rod wiring company will have fuse boxes. that's next years winter project for me to rewire the hole van,

dix wrote:Rod thanks for picking that up and the explaining it. I was not thinking,Try these #'s  SCOTT.
(LEFT SIDE )                           
MOOG ES288L                  
TRW   ES288L                    
RARE PARTS  25443            
NAPA NCP 2692078        
(RIGHT SIDE)
MOOG ES288R
TRW ES288R
RARE PARTS  25239
NAPA NCP2692079      

Awesome find!! Napa is gonna be the call.
Many thanks.

let us know how aval the left side is.

Just called NAPA, both are available, Right $49.99, Left $42.49, they said they were made by Dana.

CARQUEST ALSO HAS THEM IN MOOG,

Local Carquest is a big zero, neither part available through out their network.

So I have a question, has anybody actually gotten a set of the ES288R&L and actually installed them on a van? The ES288R is confirmed to fit the right by Moog, but the ES288L is not the number that is suppose to fit the left, suspect it has something to do with the length of the rod from center to end of thread or if there is a bend or not.

Just ordered this one from Napa

NAPA NCP 2692078

Will update everyone once I get it installed.

While waiting for the tie rod end i decided to do some tuning to the engine. Changed out all the old plugs. Worked on the timing, dwell and vacuum. Trying to dial in the Carter BBD carb. Got a rebuild kit, gonna pull it and clean it up. running pretty good but just a little rough. Could be better.

Rebuilt the carb. Running rough/slow idle in gear. When I get on the gas it charges like a beast! Need to dial in the low end tuning. Pro some small adjustments to the idle screws. Anybody got any carter bbd knowledge to share?

My tie rod end came in too. Looks right we'll see.

Engine running like shit now. Over this carb. I been messing with the adjustments for weeks. Can't find the sweet spot. Runs fine in park or neutral. Drop in gear and it chugs at stop signs, lights or any time I'm at a stand still. Thinking of switching to a holly 4 brl carb and manifold set up. Replaced all the plugs. Set timing to specs. That made it run worse. Frustrated.

I went with an edelbrock 600 cfm carb and aluminum intake set up. I love it! Electric choke. Tap the gas, fires right up. Runs great. Only thing I had to modify was the rod under the floor for the accelerator, lengthened it a quarter inch to get wide open throttle.

What did the spark plugs look like?

Plugs were fine just old.

I'm assuming your converter is stock. Did you check possible airleaks behind the carb and vacuum terminals in the intake? Nothing there? The carb you now have is the stock carb that you did over to make it perform better than it did before? Nothing else changed in between?