Swapping to a better/bigger radiator for 292. Suggestions?

Hey 65-G10-Guy, Jerry,
I decided to move my questions over here thinking it was the more appropriate place for them. (??)
I found a 19 3/4 " x 27" radiator in Speedway and was thinking it might work. It's taller but since you said you had to put a bleeder on your inlet, I thought that with 4 extra inches in height, I could just move it up a little and maybe be about the same height. (????) Any thoughts? If for some reason it wouldn't work, I can get a shorter one but I'd rather go bigger that smaller than the original.
What's your thoughts, guys?
thanks,
Chaz

I got my dog house all cleaned out and ready for the insulation. I gotta tell ya, it was VERY clean in there but I hit it with Gunk and then hot soapy water and rinse. Before I put the homemade lizard skin on, I'll wipe it down with enamel reducer to make sure.
Here are a couple pix and I'll keep ya posted.




After I get the lizard skin in, I'll drop in the 292 and then some sort of sound proofing. Probably the stuff from Home Depot that is like Boom Mat. I think I will do that after the mill is in, so I don't mess it up.
Later...
Chaz

Wow you are really in gitt'er done mode.  Cool, we will enjoy watching the progress with you.  As I recall there isn't much room to move the radiator up because of the dog house cover and it is tight below. We used a custom from Mattsons and sealed the area so the air all gets pushed through the rad.  I went with Clifford intake and exhaust.  Exhaust is split and sounds cool.  We ran both pipes out the driver side similar to stock. I suggest coating the headers and head pipes with ceramic to get the heat out of the doghouse.  Did the manifold and headers make a big difference? I doubt it on a torque engine. It would be more important on a hi rev motor.  We had to make an offset carb spacer to get the carb to fit under the dog house.  My engine was built for torque so it sounds done at about 3000.  I've got full torque at 1500.  Have fun, PM if you have any specific questions.  Jerry

Thanks Jerry. From what I could measure, I thought I could lift the radiator about 1 1/2" to 2" depending on insulation. That was a quick measurement while cleaning the inside. I'll get more detailed later. I did find some 24" and 26" tall radiators.
But the bottom of the radiator is completely open to the ground. Is it supposed to be that way?? I was thinking of creating a "scoop" to help air into the radiator as well as maybe something to protect the bottom of it. I could redirect the side air in as well, if needed. Maybe I'm getting ahead of myself here but I like to get several things going ahead of time so I can keep going - I WANT TO DRIVE IT!! lol
OK, I may split the manifold. I would just want a "payback" of "something" if I did. A "Y" pipe would be easier.
If you ever get a chance, I'd love some pix. Especially of the offset for the carb. I have the original carb rebuilt on the 292 but, the 194 came with a brand new Webber progressive. It's a two barrel and needs an adapter. I'll have to do some measuring.
Thanx buddy!!
Chaz

We put an aluminum downflow radiator into my buddy's '67. It might fit a 1st gen too.

http://www.vcvc.org/showthread.php/24642-Success!-A-good-bolt-in-replacement-for-the-2nd-gen-6-cyl-downflow-radiator

kookykrispy wrote:We put an aluminum downflow radiator into my buddy's '67.  It might fit a 1st gen too.  

http://www.vcvc.org/showthread.php/24642-Success!-A-good-bolt-in-replacement-for-the-2nd-gen-6-cyl-downflow-radiator

If you jump to page 8 of this thread you can see my install in my '65.

Thanks Kookie and Russel. Big help!!!
I'm temped to just try it but, it would be the "right time" to do the tunnel thing if I would have to do it. But from what you guys and Jerry tell me, it isn't necessarily necessary.
Is there supposed to be some sort of "bottom pan" or scoop or something under the radiator? Mine is all open to the ground.
Thanks again!
Chaz

You are missing the factory belly pan.

At higher road speeds, the belly pan creates a high pressure area in front of the radiator, and a low pressure area behind the radiator, so air moves through it.

Uh-oh....so now what. Do any of you have a picture of one so I can see how it works or do any of you know where I might get one?
Maybe a new post is in order.

With this new info, maybe a "tunnel" is in order to help offset the belly pan issue....at least till I can find one.
Thanks buddy!
Chaz

Look at Donivan's posts, he has several pics of 1st Gen belly pans, here is a one link:
https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t6943-belly-pan-question?highlight=belly+pan

Thanks Vantasia and Donivan. That gives me some idea of what to build. If anyone would have a picture of one installed, I'd love to see it. I'd be out crawling under it right now to see where it bolts, etc. but, it's raining like Portland OR. right now. But it is a good time to coat the inside of the doghouse with "alternative lizard skin". About 4 coats should be good for the inside and then a few more on the outside before i cover it.
While I was in the doghouse painting on the L.S., I did start thinking about putting in a "tunnel" it just seems like the hot ticket. Plus, I read in a previous post that one guy had to do that to get his van to cool. Now would definitely be the time to do it!! Any suggestions or posts you know of where they did it?
From just looking at it briefly, I'm thinking making it taper back, narrow in the front so to miss my gas pedal and then widen it to match the dog house. I think I would make it about half the height of the doghouse and flat so I can use that space for ....clutter basically.
Any suggestions welcome!!
Thanks again!
Chaz

Hey Chaz, just a couple thoughts from my experience.  The 292 takes a different and bigger flywheel than the stock 230. On mine that caused a clearance issue which we solved by dropping the trans mount down a bit. Easy enough when you need to fab a cross member anyway. Depending on your trans you may have a similar issue. I just posted some pics in the members gallery  as well as my thread in the Mini gallery. If you haven't looked yet I have a collection of pics in the gallery. I have lots more pics and info posted in the members gallery,
http://vintage-vans.smugmug.com/Cars/Jerrys-Pet-Projects-65-G10-guy/31084206_L8dxkq
Keep up the good work. Jerry

65-G10-guy wrote:Hey Chaz, just a couple thoughts from my experience.  The 292 takes a different and bigger flywheel than the stock 230. On mine that caused a clearance issue which we solved by dropping the trans mount down a bit. Easy enough when you need to fab a cross member anyway. Depending on your trans you may have a similar issue. I just posted some pics in the members gallery  as well as my thread in the Mini gallery. If you haven't looked yet I have a collection of pics in the gallery. I have lots more pics and info posted in the members gallery,
http://vintage-vans.smugmug.com/Cars/Jerrys-Pet-Projects-65-G10-guy/31084206_L8dxkq
Keep up the good work. Jerry

You are incorrect about it needing a larger flywheel. The 292 uses the same crank bolt pattern as any SBC.  The 292 is internally balanced and uses the same flywheel as the 194, 230 or 250. However, I have found the bolts that go in the 292 crank that hold the flywheel on are the "truck" style larger 1/2" diameter, so if using a "car" 194-230-250 flywheel/flexplate, then you usually need to drill the holes out a little larger to accommodate the larger bolts.

Maybe this requirement for larger holes to accomodate the 1/2" crank bolts is the source of your assertion that the 292 requires a larger flywheel???


There are usually two different size flywheel/flexplates for chevy engines:  153 tooth or 168 tooth.  These require different style starters.

153 tooth uses the straight bolt starter.  

168 uses the offset bolt starter, and spaces the starter further away because of the larger wheel.  

The 292 engines I have seen have the block drilled for both straight and offset starter bolts, so either starter may be used, and either size flywheel/flexplate.

If you browse the applications for this flywheel, you'll notice here that this same 153 tooth flywheel fits many chevy engines, inline six, small block and big block.  Including the 292

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcl-460300/applications/make/chevrolet?prefilter=1

Sorry Guys didn't mean to mislead.  When I was doing mine I was advised to use the larger truck flywheel rather than drill.  I wish I had talked to Kooky before. Live & learn. Jerry

Hey Jerry, No problem!!! I can see how it could be confused. BTW, love all the shots of your van and the work you did!!!!

Thank you Kooky for setting us right. We have the engine in, It was MUCH easier to take out.
I drilled the flywheel.

Decided to go with an electric fuel pump and made the plate for the mount. Very easy! Reason I went that route is because a buddy refreshed my memory as to why we need to pump the heck out of the gas if a carb-ed engine has set for awhile - alcohol gas. An electric makes that easier to deal with.
I'll post some pix soon.
Chaz

I like aluminum radiators for disapating heat better than brass but sometimes they can develop cracks after a few years. Repairing them is not as easy as original type brass tanks. I prefer the stock type radiator. Since you have the first Gen doghouse, you can't install the cross flow radiator. I have used the stock 6 cylinder rad but recored to high efficiency with more tubes.
For airflow, I use a Lincoln Mark VIII fan which is 18". It takes some modifications to fit the fan in there but it sure pulls the heat out. Pics are posted on VCVC under "Radiator Work". I'm still working on it but it's the daily driver and runs well. I don't know how well it would work on a pumped up V8 since I running a six. Belly pan is a must. My 2 cents.
108VanGuy...