by RodStRace Fri Dec 25, 2015 10:09 am
50 different builders will have at least 50 different answers, so let's first agree on some basics:
Make sure you use a GREAT filter to catch all the junk!
Use an additive for flat tappet cams.
Synthetics are often too 'slippery' to allow ring seating.
Only run the break-in oil for a short time. That first change removes all the fine particles that come loose and are worn from surfaces. Also change it 'hot'. Don't let it sit overnight before changing.
Some prefer taking it easy for the first 500-100 miles, others prefer running it as hard as normal operation. If the rings and cylinder bores are compatible, it should take anywhere from 5 minutes (moly) to 500-1000 miles (cast iron) for the rings to 'seat'.
It is very important to have the engine adjusted as much as possible to be ready to run on initial start up. You do NOT want to have to start, stop, start, stop, during the critical first half hour. Timing, carb, valvetrain, belts should all be ready to go. You must have a good cooling system (they tend to run hot at first) and the starting system must be able to crank over a fresh engine. Have a fire extinguisher handy and a second set of eyes if possible. If you are doing this without a drive, have a big fan for the radiator, extra fluids, easy access (doghouse open or removed), tools, a clean, flat surface to be able to spot any leaks and it would be smart to have the rear wheels off the ground (jackstands!) so you don't worry about the transmission. While a fresh engine sounds great with open exhaust (if everything is adjusted right they like to start quickly, rev fast and shut off immediately), it's better to have a quiet exhaust so you can hear any strange noises. Most header makers will NOT warranty coatings if used to break in a fresh engine. So you may have to use some used headers or manifolds for the break in, then switch to your nice new headers.
..I have never had a problem useing this method...The "Break In" oil is used mainly for the cam shaft...
