Oil Change

Battery/concrete-myth?? hehe try it & learn!! In practice-the concrete temps V/S batterys temp = will cause the battery to "sweat" over time - this sweat will encompass the entire battery=post to concrete- therefore =Discharging the battery!! Thats why those in the "know" put some wood under the batterys for storage. wont discharge then.  

I went to 2 engine shops today,,,both said old engines don't  care if you use the new oil,,,,,,HOWEVER
,,,,,,for rebuilt engines they recommend Diesel engine oil,,,,,like Chevron Delo 10W-40 which still has Zinc in it........cuts down on camshaft wear........



http://www.walmart.com/ip/Chevron-Delo-400-LE-15W40-Motor-Oil-2-1-2-gal/36073419

I beleive all diesel motor oul does have zink and is designed to trap and hold carbon. and that is why diesel oil turns black so much faster than gasoline engine oils

here is another choice ,,,,Hemmings Motor News ,,,,,

Here is someone comparing Delo to Rotella,,,,,,,,,,So 64Chevy Guy,,,,,,how does the concentration of Zinc in Delo  compare to the other choices of oil????



Brad,i would use the delo le cj becasue it showed more Zn & P then the 2 seperate shell CJ sample tested this yr,see below for the shell & delo data.

But again post the new 2007 CJ oil reformulation the shell is not as good as the delo mainly becasue it has less Zn & P,the delo has better flat tappet cam protection in the newer CJ oil. I had reviewed another oil test somewhere else on the delo too which had very similar #'s to this latest test data so i know the ZDDP in the delo seems to be more consistant.

But to ans your question the shell has a reasonable lvl of detrgent accross the 2 samples tested this yr which should not be a problem but why run it when the delo can do a better job with considerably more P & Zn when the shell #'s had more variation.

The new chevron delo LE CJ-4 15w-40 is 1033ppm-P   1191ppm-Zn       1584-Ca (detergent)

Rotella 15w40     843ppm-P     946ppm-Z     1881ppm-Ca      CJ-4/ 03/07 /Blackstone
Rotella 15w40 996 1130 2054 CJ-4 04/07

this is the only oil i use in my earlys,
http://autoculture.org/?p=1065

in this chart the 2 set of numbers of importance is
wear protection # the higher it is the more protection you will have
and the zinc #

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=35836

My 2  Cents- what I do= I use a top Quality Brand name oil 1st!  I then in all -ALL my engines with NON- Roller cam/lifter engines- ADD++++  to 5 Quarts capacity motor oil =the ZINC addative. I do this -even when im using an oil that has Zinc in the formulation!!  Reason- How do i know what amount of Zinc is in the oil  that says its there??  Overkill?? Maybe -yet i do not like flat cams & lifters & all that wear metal inside the engine!! Its called =Insurance for me! I havent ever lost an engine yet =!! also = dont ever use -    used lifters!!  buy new &  have no problems.    

Ill also add =NEVER!! EVER!! run the new synthetic oils in a Brand-new engine!! The stuff is way too slick for ring sealing!! Get about 2000 miles on the new engine & then change over!! I am a TOTAL Believer in synthetic oils too-I use them-in my vehicles that I drive daily & hard & on long trips!! I also change my syn - car oils 2 x a year too!! Other cars & vans i have with Zinc additives -i change every 2500-4000 miles too-or yearly if I dont use them much. Due to possible condensation & contaminates over the non-use period.

Oil change complete-I used 3 *quarts* (my bad, I said liters before) Valvoline synthetic blend 20w-50, plus a 12oz bottle of hy-per lube zinc additive.  It came out to about  1/4 quart over. I think I can live with that.  Thanks again VV crew!

Before I start the engine: the hy-per lube additive is a zinc REPLACEMENT-not zinc. However it says safe for use in all engines and with all oils.

Years back as I was in the marine repair buisness- Penzoil had a pint bottle of oil mix for outboard engines. Front of bottle had a picture of a boat on it. Said 50-1 mix for outboards!! Extremely inexpensive too. I was an Evinrude & omc & mercruiser dealer then. Had countless customers with problems of fouled spark plugs & some with other internal engine problems. On the back of the bottle it stated in =Very FINE Print- for aircooled outboards engines!!!!!!!!!!! All customers engines were water cooled!! When i saw that bottle of oil mix id get it from their boat -show them & they were all in amazement!! Quote="its just cheaper than your oil mix" Id laugh & say - well =you saved about $1.00 dollar a tank full & now its going to cost you much more to repair that engine! Those customers -always after that =came buy & bought my -certified evinrude oil mix . Be careful -even today with additives- esp. ones that state- a replacement for=??? Myself I will ONLY use a actual Zinc type additive in all my engines that still require it!! I just hate the engine being ruined by a cam & lifters that went bad-due to a real zinc not being added. Some racing oils have the zinc still in them - Valvoline Racing oil comes to mind-and I still add the zinc to the oil change too!! Just be cautious with the oils & additives!! Happy Vannin!!  

Also a few of the hotrod vendors sell "off road" oil, mineral and synthetic. Essentially it has some of the old additives like Zinc already. One thing if you do buy, store them on their side and shake for a long time before using as the metals like zinc stick to the bottom of the jug. Should be only a dollar more a quart for the name brands. And, tho I have yet to confirm this, oil made for diesels (like Shell's Rotella) are still supposed to have some zinc in them as it is so critical. It's about the same price as regular oil. There will probably be some federal cutoff year as the feds like to promote new car ownership and as much consumption as possible.