Oil Change

First off, this site is great. So much useful information, even the stuff I don't understand. Second, here's a question that will give you an idea of my skill level: Should I change my own oil or take it in? Never done it before; I thought it might be a good absolute beginner's project, but it doesn't look as simple as I thought. I did a search on the forum for "changing the oil" but no luck. It must be too basic a procedure. Maybe I shouldn't even be messing around in there!

I have 5 liters oil, a drainage pan, and a new filter, per the recommendation of the auto parts salesperson.

The oil filter is messy to do,,,,,,,its in there sideways,,,,,so a quart is going to run down all over the place ,,,,,I use a piece of flat metal  to make the oil pouring out of it  flow into the drain pan,,,,,that oil filer might not want to come loose,,,,,see if you can turn it a little with big channel locks, an oil filter wrench or by hand,,,,you don't want to have to chisel it off,,,,you could strip out the drain plug,,,,,you might need a new gasket on it,,,,,,you have to get rid of the old oil,,,,,you might have to remove the dust shield under the filter to  make it easier,,,,,,I would see if the oil filter turns a little,,,,,like 1/2 a turn,,,,,,,

Come down to Tacoma for our club's Tech Day tomorrow (or sunday), and change your oil here at my shop aka the Bustin' Loose 'clubhouse'. And meet everyone in the Bustin' Loose Early Vans club.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/Bustinloose/

https://www.facebook.com/groups/285703998219723/

Vanners helping vanners! Cool!

make sure the oil you use has the zink additive in it....

I got zinc substitute separately; a polymer ester formula. Supposed to be better than zinc? Got to remember to compensate for 12 oz. of additive so as not to overfill. Good to know I'm on the right track!  

@ donivan: Beautiful engines. Inspiring! I found this stuff called Kaowool- a ceramic blanket-that may work in the doghouse. But I still want the shiny stuff. I am planning to install a fan one of these days.  Hilarity will ensue.

@kookykrispy: Wish I could make Tech Day but I'll be out of town this weekend; not driving the van of course. Better luck next time!

,,,,,,most important thing is to put some oil or grease on the oil filter rubber gasket or you will never get it off in 1 piece again......

what is this zinc you talk of.should I use this also I just figured i would 10w30

@van crazy - Here's a couple of old threads that talk about zinc.

https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t21122-zink-and-oil?highlight=zinc

https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t33449-thoughts-about-zinc-additive-in-these-old-engines?highlight=zinc

5 LITERS? sounds like a lot to me.

My L-6 250 takes 8. Guess I've got a big pan. My '91 Suburban 350 only takes 5. Gotta' admit, I'm a little confused.....

My 302 takes 6 QUARTS not LITERS

,,,sounds like somebody has the wrong dipstick or tube in their 6 cylinder Chevy

So donivan do you add this zinc additive to your motor?

Better -ADD! the Zinc additive- or else the cam & lifters -WILL go bad!! There are some name brand "Racing oils" that still have the zinc in them too-- Valvoline racing =comes to mind.

There are 2 sides to every story,,,,,,I probably got over 150,000 miles on this engine without using it......





Despite the pains taken in developing special flat-tappet camshaft wear tests that these new oils must pass and the fact that the ZDP level of these new oils is comparable to the level found necessary to protect flat-tappet camshafts in the past, there will still be those who want to believe the myth that new oils will wear out older engines.
Like other myths before it, history teaches us that it will probably take 60 or 70 years for this one to die also.

Special thanks to GM's Techlink
- Thanks to Bob Olree – GM Powertrain Fuels and Lubricants Group

So,,,,,,the Crazy Van guy, goes to WalMart, picks out a 12 dollar, 5 quart bottle of 10w-30 oil from the 1000 bottles sitting there... and pours it in his van,,,,,,,then PILOT,,,,,what happens,,,,does the engine blow up,,,,,,what and when do you think,  something is  going to happen to that engine????? Lets just look at this Zinc crisis from a practical point of view........

Considering that I once ran an inline 6 completely dry of oil for 20 miles until it finally stopped, then after it cooled down and I poured 5 quarts of used oil from another car in it and I drove it two more years after that, I'd say your safe with new oil.

BTW, that old Chevy lasted another 5 years before the person I sold it to drove into a telephone pole on a night of heavy partying.

Walmart sells Accel Brand oil which carries a SF rating and has the zinc the older engines need. I either use that or Valvoline VR-1 if they're out of it. Accel is less then $3 but VR-1 is about $7

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Accel-10W-40-Quart/20713642

Just like the battery on concrete myth right. Im going to go with the Master on this one Im thinking I never blew a motor yet Im thinking as long as you have oil in it your good....

I am sure the engine is better off with Zinc, but I don't see camshaft and lifter wear being the #1 killer of our engines,,,,you might end up with a good cam and lifters but other things like worn rings, smoking and rod knocks usually signal the end of the line first,,,after so many miles, the engine is worn out,,,,

Van crazy wrote:Just like the battery on concrete myth

What is the battery on concrete myth?

here you go read this, and yes my brother did have a crate engine go bad/ after about 6 k ,miles

http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012/10/18/tech-101-zinc-in-oil-and-its-effects-on-older-engines/