forum rookie / fuel pump question

Greetings y'all. First of all, thanks for taking the time to even read this and possibly help out. I have had an old 62' Falcon Clubwagon for the past few years. When I first got it, it was running beautifully. Due to a few circumstances, it ended up sitting for awhile resulting in the gas going bad in it. I am on the way to getting it back on the road but have a question or 2 about cleaning out everything involved with the fuel. I had the tank cleaned so all the old gunk and bad gas is a thing of the past. I'm in the middle of rebuilding the carb, which has also been totally cleaned and will have all new gaskets. My 2 main questions are about the fuel lines, and the fuel pump. Would it be worth it to try and clean the lines, where they stand now, or possibly replace them. Also, what would be involved with cleaning the fuel pump ? Would I be better of trying to put a new one on there ? I'm new to the mechanic world of cars but am very interested in learning as much as I can. Cheers once again for any help or advice.

The fuel pump is easy as pie to disassemble and clean. Once you remove it and have it on the bench you will see what I mean. And you'll also see the condition of it's diaphragm, if it's dry, cracked or deteriorating ect. Unless it's in great shape I'd just rebuild it(If you can find a kit) or buy a new one, they are cheap and easy to install. As for the lines I would blow them though with high pressure and see what comes out of them.

Welcome to VV!!!

Welcome to VV.

Cheers for the welcomes and thanks Seth for your advice. I'll give it a go and let you know how it goes. Your help is greatly appreciated !

WELCOME,,,,   IMO,,,,  for the money and age of the pump I would replace it with an electric pump myself.  Thats just my preference though.  These carbs are prone to percolating with the doghouse heat being trapped inside of them, and on mine if I let it sit for a week or two,, I can jump in the truck, turn the key and listen to it pumping the carb up. That way it starts right up without having to crank if over until the mechanical pump fills the carb.  Added also, IF you ever run out of gas, it will pump the carb up without wearing out the starter and the flywheel....LOL.
  Most of the mechanical fuel pumps that I have seen are stamped together and cannot be taken apart. Some have screws in them and you can take them apart, however finding a diapram, going through all the work may be not worth versus buying a LIFE TIME WARRANTY one for the same or lessor moneys?   The other option being,, clean out or replace the steel line and put a filter in line from the pump to the carb, fill the tank and run it!!!   If it is gummed up fuel the new fuel will clean it out and blow any dirt or crap right out of it!!!  The new fuel will disolve the small amount of gummed up fuel that MAY be left inside it.  Leave the outlet side of the fuel line at the carb disconnected and blow it into  glass jar so you can see if there is any dirt or crap in it.  It shouldnt take much to do it.  You should run a filter in line here anyways,,,,
   Aside that,, the steel line from the back of the truck to the front is easily avialable at just about any good auto parts store, and very cheap.,  Its 50 year old!!!   you can for sure blow it out (not into the fuel pump of either pump and into a glass jar so you can see if there is anything in there. If it were me, I would simply replace it as its cheap and new, and run an inline electric pump. Personally, I mount it right where the mechanical pump is and pay about $50 bucks for one.
vic

Disconnect the fuel line at each end and shoot some carb cleaner into the line and then blow it through with compressed air. If the stuff coming out isn't clean after 3 or 4 tries, you may be better off replacing the line as the old gas dries to form sticky shellac that can stick a valve. You can get a 25' roll of new steel line at NAPA for about $25 and hand form the very simple lines. I just did this on my '65 SuperVan, and actually replaced all steel lines. I tried to clean up my tank by putting chain inside and shooting carb cleaner and or gasoline into the tank. Never could get it really clean so I took it to an old school radiator shop and got it boiled out for $65. Clean as a whistle now. My problem was more severe as the van was parked for over 30 years.

if you go with an electric pump, don't forget to get a block off plate for the block

Since this thread talks about fuel pumps... The pump with integral cartridge type filter (Airtex 40003) does not fit the 170 in the '65 Supervan. You will need to get the pump that shows as correct for the 144 in a '63. (Precision M16190)

Thank you everyone for all of your helpful advice. Y'all are so great. Right now I'm trying to determine what engine is actually in my van. The guy that sold it to me years ago mentioned that it wasn't the original motor, and that it was an inline 6 that came out of a mustang. Not sure what year though. The engine block has a badge with the name Fred Jones on it, and I found that name floating around vintage Mustang forums as well. So before I can even consider a new fuel pump, I have to figure this out first.

Makes no difference as far as the pump goes,, but look under the exhaust manifold and if it has five freeze plugs then its a 200 for sure, perhaps a 250 but I doubt it.  Whats the number on the intake manifold??   ps,, NOT THE FIRING ORDER,,   LOL.....
VIC

2ND THOUGHT,,,  dratz,,,  cannot be a 250 as that engine has the big bell only pattern,,  DUH,,,,,,(dummy me),,,,
Vic

Yep, just checked, 5 freeze plugs are there. Thanks for that. 200 does sound familiar from when I bought it. And I think this is the number you were asking about on the intake manifold. Let me know if this makes any sense. Thank you so much once again !

C9DE-6090-M

Sixty nine,,,,,, LOL,,,,,,  yep its a 200.  They are a very good motor and very peppy,,,,  congrats,,, fuel pump will be easy...
vic

Just found the number on the block, and it reads C8DE 8015 B. I did a little snooping around and it seems that the block is a 68'. Is the right ? Not sure how much that matters, just trying to know what I have. Thanks Vic !

Yep,,  that matches,,,second set of numbers is the cylinder head.  69 head on a 68 block
vic

Year	Block #	Head #	Crank #	Notes
1965	C5DE-H	C5DE-B C6DE-A	1H	4 bolt bell
66-67	C6DE-A	C6DE-A C7DE-A	1H	6 bolt bell
68-69	C8DE-8	C6DE-A / C8DE-B C9DE-R / C9DE-M	1H	6 bolt bell

Cheers, y'all have been a great help. Hopefully she'll be startin' up sooner than later. I'll let you know how it all goes.
- joe

That's a good head too, has the larger log intake