by ndjarrett Wed Sep 04, 2013 5:01 pmOK, per wiring diagrams I see that I should have either a 20gauge white wire or a 12gauge pink wire going to my coil. What my van has is an insulated 20gauge (I think) black wire crimped to a short 12gauge pink wire running to my coil. So, if I replace this crappy black wire, should Ido 20gauge again or 12?
4 posters
2nd Gen Wiring
ndjarrett- Number of posts : 357
Location : Memphis
Registration date : 2011-05-01
Twinpilot001- Number of posts : 6186
Location : spokane ,Wa.
Registration date : 2009-09-28
go with 20 yet id actually use a 16 ga -
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
That Orange/White /Purple wire is a special resistance wire made to cut the voltage down to the positive side of the coil,,,,,,it normally would go down to the R terminal on the starter solenoid then the yellow boost wire would go from that R terminal up to the positive side of the coil,,,,,,and sometimes that resistance wire goes right to the positive side of the coil with the yellow wire.....
ndjarrett- Number of posts : 357
Location : Memphis
Registration date : 2011-05-01
Well I doubt this black wire is a special resistance wire, so what should I replace it with? Regular 20g or 16g as suggested? I also do have, and have replaced, the yellow wire going from the starter to the coil.
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
If you got points,,,,,,you need a ballast resistor to cut the voltage down to the coil,,,,,,,check the positive side of the coil with a voltmeter with the truck running,,,,,,it should be around 7 volts,,,,,,,,,,,,,,now if you got a HEI distributor in there,,,,,,it needs 12 volts,,,,,,
savage- Number of posts : 2626
Location : Where Rust Never Sleeps in Ft Wayne IN
Registration date : 2008-05-15
My 68 -20 has a short wire spliced in right by dis to coil, on its way down to starter. I think the wire is black. And like Don said it should be a resistor wire to drop voltage
Twinpilot001- Number of posts : 6186
Location : spokane ,Wa.
Registration date : 2009-09-28
thats true as for a resistor wire or??= if you need to replace that = just run a typical "resister "block-napa- from the run circuit to the + on coil --- not the dtart circuit!! as it needs full 12v for sta:cheers: rt These =Blocks were typically used on all gm cars when they all went to 12v systems. Typical diagnosis when one was bad is= when u start the engine it will start & run then when key is released for run - it dies!!
What ur looking for is typically a ceramic type block with a wire terminal in each end & 1 mounting hole - u can just use 16 gague wire on that too.
What ur looking for is typically a ceramic type block with a wire terminal in each end & 1 mounting hole - u can just use 16 gague wire on that too.
ndjarrett- Number of posts : 357
Location : Memphis
Registration date : 2011-05-01
Cool. Thx!
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
I am thinking that the black wire is the ballast resistor,,,,,measure it if you can get to both ends of it,,,,,,a ballast resistor is about 1.5 ohms, while a plain wire would read 0 ohms
ndjarrett- Number of posts : 357
Location : Memphis
Registration date : 2011-05-01
Resistor wire yes. Good...nope. replaced with resistor block and regular wire and at least got the rebuild to fart thru the carb. Now to just pull the dist, spin it 180, and hopefully get the damned thing running again.
ndjarrett- Number of posts : 357
Location : Memphis
Registration date : 2011-05-01
Well...gave up on the points distrib. I now have the hei in which behaves better...but still won't fire. I have gapped my plugs at .045. According to Chilton's a newer 250 with elec ig needs to be 8b. So I have tried setting my timing on 4 marks after 0 and even on the A (which s/b 10b ?). Still, the best I can do is a little fart out the exhaust. Someone suggested I go back and try it on 4b like with a pts distrib which is where they usually have it. Anyone got any other ideas? Oh, and its wired off of the ign unfused prong of my fusebox.
ndjarrett- Number of posts : 357
Location : Memphis
Registration date : 2011-05-01
Clarify...4 marks to the right of the 0...1 mark left of the A
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
you use the lines on top, toward the passenger side,,,IF,,,,,the tab is on the drivers side above the alternator,,,,,,,and 60's engines and 70's engines are not the same,,,,,,you can't be trying to use 70's engine specs on a 60's engine,,,,,just because you put a 70's HEI in it,,,,,the spark plugs are different sizes,,,,,you need to know what engine you got,,,,,,I see a lot of those Hot Rod HEI's that don't work,,,,,,so make sure you got the firing order right,,,,1 5 3 6 2 4,,,,,clockwise,,, in that dist cap,,,,,,,put the notch on the pulley to 0,,,,,,look under the cap,,,,,,the rotor needs to be pointing to #1 or 6 spark plug wire,,,,,,,,did you time that engine on #1 COMPRESSION STROKE or mess up and and time it on #1 EXHAUST STROKE?
ndjarrett- Number of posts : 357
Location : Memphis
Registration date : 2011-05-01
Yes my firing order was correct. Pretty sure it was not on exhaust stroke...when it does that it backfires thru carb. Not sure what my prob is at this point.
Similar topics
|
|
|