Had 67' master cylinder resleeved/rebuilt

Just wanted to let people know if their looking to have dual master cylinder rebuilt I found a company that did my 1967. Their called White Post Restorations out of Virginia. ph. # 540-837-1140 or www.whitepost.com. I sent it to them and got complete rebuild, including resleeved, for $175.00 + $20.00 for shipping. They did a great job. This also includes warranty. Check them out.

Cool. Isn't there someplace in TX like that too?

yes,
white post does good work, they did mine several years ago. I live close enough to take it there myself. the person that greeted me, also gave me a quick tour of the whole place. wish I could afford for them to do the whole van, but if you have to ask how much, you can't afford it!
wildbillinva

I didn't like White Post one bit. Snotty on the phone and poor job on the paint job. They also admitted they only pay about $5 for their rebuild kits. Use Vic instead, support a vanner.

Thank You,,, I try to have them in stock but not always that easy. I have to do them in five piece minimums so it adds to the $$$$ sitting on the shelf at times.
Also, as I have them plated as it gets in all the nooks and cranny's,,, I also have to wait to accumulate enough parts for the minimum on the plating.
I have them done in brass as I think it is a little bit softer and stands up better than the stainless, also if you get a scratch in the stainless its a bear to hone out and usually pretty deep. Kinda of a toss up on the differences between the two materials.
One additional step that I do is to machine the outlet ports to be able to use the adapters. You can still use the internal residuals and brass seat if you prefer, but using the adapters converts the threads over for the Wilwood external residuals and an added bonus of no longer needing the brass seat. Machining the outlet port gives you the option of either setup but needs to be done before the plating.
In order to service or replace the OEM internal residual valve, you need to remove the brass seat which holds it in place and ruin it. ALSO if you over tighten the brake line fitting and crunch the brass seat you have to replace it.
IMPORTANT!! The double flare on the brake line that contacts the brass seat needs very little pressure in order to seat correctly. IF YOU OVER TIGHTEN the fitting you can or do risk destroying the brass seat. SO, no matter whose unit you use, DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN it. Many master cylinders will not leak on the power stroke but can leak on the return stroke if over tightened.
If needed I have the 10lb OEM residual valves and replacement brass seats in stock as well as the rubber boots. The boots do not fit as nicely as I would prefer, however they are the ONLY ones available...
Vic

Really great information. I got this information from you on the Yahoo group a while back and it made my rebuild so much easier. I rebuilt my own master but found it needed a sleeve and had to send it out. Regrettably I did not send it to you, but lesson learned for the rest of us.

My brakes are now better then a lot of cars I have driven. I used to have to wedge my knee under the steering wheel at a stop light, now resting on the pedal is plenty.