1ST GEN DUEL BRAKE CYLINDER CONVERSION NEEDED

NOT BEING A MECHANIC ,AM SERIUOSLY STARTING TO LOOK FOR A EARLY VAN OWNER IN LOUISVILLE , CINCY, INDY AREA (I AM IN LOU. KY.) TO DO A DUEL MASTER CYLINDER CONVER. TO MY ORIG.(NOT CHOPPED UP)65 G10 .AGAIN NOT A MECH BUT CAN HELP THROW SOME WRENCHES AROUND . WOULD RATHER PAY SOMEONE THAT ACTUALLY KNOWS THESE VANS AND THE PROCEDURE, THAN JUST ANY MECH. ,. AM WILLING TO DRIVE UP TO AREA LISTED ABOVE ON A WEEKEND OR MAYBE POSS. WEEKDAY. ANYONE INTERESTED HOLLER ANYTIME , DANNY 502 432 3684


---------------------------------------Now there was a man of the Pharisees named Nicodemus, a ruler of the Jews. This man came to Jesus by night and said to him, “Rabbi, we know that you are a teacher come from God, for no one can do these signs that you do unless God is with him.” Jesus answered him, “Truly, truly, I say to you, unless one is born again he cannot see the kingdom of God.” Nicodemus said to him, “How can a man be born when he is old? Can he enter a second time into his mother's womb and be born?” Jesus answered, “Truly, truly, I say to you, unless one is born of water and the Spirit, he cannot enter the kingdom of God. JOHN 3;15

































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I am in Northern Alabama but that might be too far for you, its like a 6 or 7 hour drive. Really it shouldnt be that hard and need a "Mechanic" to do it. The only real custom part is cutting out the piece behind the original master and though it make take some time it can be done with a side grinder or hacksaw.

Don, what proportion valve needs to be used with this or is that only when doing disc in the front and drum remaining in the back?

The "Scored" area is what needs to be cut out!

Being that my image is too large, here is a direct link to the pic:
https://2img.net/h/i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd191/BvrWally2/Front%20Disc%20Brakes/Bracketthatneedsremoved.jpg

donivan65 wrote:Since Disk calipers and drum wheel cylinders run on different pressures,you need a proportioning valve to send the correct pressure to each system if you got both type of systems on so the brakes all stop at the same time,,,,,,so you add an adjustable one in the rear line to slow down the rear drums so that the front disks can catch up,,,,,,,if you have all drums,,,,or all disks,,,,,,you don't need one,,,,,,

Is there a certain year/model that I should ask about? Or are they generic? Again, something I think should be on the disc brake conversion parts list.

Maybe when I cut mine out and I can just send you the piece so you can draw it on your own bracket and cut that chunk out? The rest should be cake.

I used a '68 Vette M/C Disc/Disc...being I have them all around!

Thanks to all , for the informative replies and pics . i still could screw some easy mechanical tasks pretty quickly . and as such an important thing as brakes , as mentioned earlier i can throw fetch some wrenches pretty good ,so i/ll wait around a bit longer (and put the funds away for paying someone to and parts money also) till someone fairly close that i can drive to has the time .

A man's gotta know his limitations....

I plan on doing this as soon as I can get to it, and share your apprehension at messing with something as critical as brakes. But I can cut the bracket, remove all the old lines, buy the parts, probably install the new MC, make it easy for a mechanic to install fine tune the rest of it.

So dumb question - with the new dual MC the round access hole in the floor is still large enough work with?

It still works, I use a small funnel so Im not spilling brake fluid all over the place.

A couple things that I found made it a bit easier. Instead of pulling the whole bracket with the MC out I cut the back side out with a Saws-all then pulled the single MC out easily. I just slid the blade beside the single MC and cut back as even with the inner edge as I could.

Make sure to use some kind of penetrating oil on the bolts on the MC not just when taking them out but a good dose when putting them in or get new ones. Breaking one off would really suck where it is at.

Use a scotchbright or fine emery to smooth the rod that goes into the MC if it is rough and put a little fluid/oil on the rod to slide it into the new boot.

Just a few things I noted while installing mine that are better to know before than after...

donivan65 wrote:The bracket is part of the body,,,,you would never get it out without destroying the van,,,,you just reach up there after you take the old master cylinder out and open up the hole in back towards the radiator,,,,,,

I had issues getting it out cuz of the rod from the pedal... I guess that is what I should have said and not the bracket. My bad!

donivan65 wrote:You need to remove the pushrod 1st,,,,,and that bolt is an adjusting cam,,,,you need to adjust that rod after you replace the master cylinder....

Man, you weren't kidding about destroying the van to get the bracket out!

Don,Those pics make me want to cut something up. Sawzalls are cool! Bill

dont really want to pay any shop thats not familiar w/ a car more than 10 yrs old,and would rather pay someone who knows these vans ,(but any one fairly close i/m still looking for someone to do my duel master conversion , not disc . just drums. danny 502 432 3684

bump

still interested in finding someone interested in doing the changeover.