One step forward, two back.. <Cracked Exhaust Manifold>

Do you feel lucky ?

I have a nice set of clifford headers for that $200.00 if your interested

Scott ,
Whar about teamthunder7 clfford headers ?

You should have no problem finding a factory 250 exaust manifold here since many of the guys here has done V8 swaps on their vans.

I bought my 250 exhaust manifold brand new online. Wasn't hard to find. I can look it up if you want.

But you said 292. Were you using the 292-style exhaust manifold? Someone said that's a better way to go on a 250 because it will breath better. Is this true? I would have gone that way since I bought the manifold new and the exhaust pipes. 292 is 3" exhaust pipe, right?

Dang Scott,you were so close to road worthy too.

Yes, I think you could just leave that end bolt out, as long as the break didn't compromise the seal on that port (like you said). I'm pretty sure these engines came with pins instead of bolts in those end holes. I swapped mine out for bolts, thinking it just made sense, to help minimize exhaust leaks. But I tell ya, I really missed those pins when I was putting the manifolds back in place! I'd say their purpose is to give you something to hang the heavy assembly on, to take the weight off, while you're getting the other six bolts started.

So it could be that we do have to be careful when tightening our extra end bolts because the manifolds aren't designed to have bolts there.

I found this comment on a Chevy Truck forum:

If you are getting headers, you need to take out the end pins and install eight of the threaded studs. It makes it a heck of a lot easier to get everything on...

Another tip (I've heard Don stress this one before too). You mount the intake and exhaust manifolds together first, before attaching the whole assembly to the head. And:

When bolting the two manifolds together, be sure to lay them on a perfectly flat surface because if one manifold is crooked from the other one you'll get a vacuum leak or an exhaust leak after you've bolted them to the engine block.

Any chance of having it cast welded and ground down, and put a pin in the end instead of a bolt? At least you would have a proper seal...just my 2 cents.

It would probaly cost more money to have it welded than the cost of buying a new one. Then you would have to worry that it might crack in another place.

The replacement cast manifold is $130.

I considered a repair, but I really don't want to do this more then once. I'm passing on the headers because this factory one is more then enough for this engine. Besides, with headers I lose the heat connection from the exhaust, and would have to have my exhaust pipe redone.

Tomorrow I'll post a picture of the custom FUBAR I found on the bottom of the intake.

Thanks for those torques Donivan..

One more questoion, well one more today. Whats the torque for the bolts that heat plate between the manifolds?