If you take the 2 screws off and remove this choke pull off,with its little rod, then push the choke in and adjust the cable so the choke is closed, you probably could get the van to start when you wanted it,,,,,,
+3
donivan65
NipRing
cculella
7 posters
Manual Choke to Electric Choke Carburetor Conversion
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
- Post n°26
Re: Manual Choke to Electric Choke Carburetor Conversion
by donivan65 Fri Nov 18, 2011 8:49 am
cculella- Number of posts : 110
Location : Saint Louis, MO
Registration date : 2011-02-03
- Post n°27
Re: Manual Choke to Electric Choke Carburetor Conversion
by cculella Fri Nov 18, 2011 9:20 pm
So what carb are you using with your '65? Looks a bit beefier that the one that I have.
You say that there is a third vacuum chamber. Where does that one go and what does it control? I'll get some more pics of where that chamber should be tomorrow and post them up for you to look at.
You say that there is a third vacuum chamber. Where does that one go and what does it control? I'll get some more pics of where that chamber should be tomorrow and post them up for you to look at.
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
- Post n°28
Re: Manual Choke to Electric Choke Carburetor Conversion
by donivan65 Fri Nov 18, 2011 10:53 pm
I have a Carter YF with a manual choke and I probably wasted 1000's of gallons of gas driving it around by forgetting to turn it off,,,,,,,,,that junk one I took pictures of is a Rochester B,,,,the on that engine is a Rochester MonoJet ,,,,,here is a pic of the 3 carbs that came on our 6 cylinder engines,,,,,we provide choices to your questions,,,,I am the repair guy----fix it,,,,,there are also buy another carb guys,,,-----spend your money,,,,double the value of your van,,,so you do whats best for you,,,,,that 3rd chamber looks like an EGR valve to me,,,,that was not invented until 1975,,,,so thats why I wanted that picture of what that bar is holding,,,,it's all about gathering clues to figure out your mysteries,,,A guy needs to know what he got,,,,then you know what to do,,,,,Like spending $260 just so you got a choke???? you only need the choke for a few minutes to start the van when its cold,,,,you can hook a coat hanger on the choke linkage just to start the engine in my book,,,,but like I say,,,,we give you choices,,,,,,
cculella- Number of posts : 110
Location : Saint Louis, MO
Registration date : 2011-02-03
- Post n°29
Re: Manual Choke to Electric Choke Carburetor Conversion
by cculella Sat Nov 19, 2011 4:51 pm
So I took a picture of where that bar on the manifold. I circled what looks like a vacuum port like the ones on the carb.
I also dug through the boxes of stuff that came with the van. I found a carb and a set of manifolds.
They are both in rough condition. Maybe they were the original parts that were taken out for the "upgrades".
From what I have read, I think there are two options.
A. Disconnect the choke pull off from the lever and adjust the choke cable to work better.
B. Find a divorced choke and rod. Remove the choke cable and get the connect the rod in its place. Not sure if there are other issues with the vacuum lines.
Does that sound about right or am I missing something?
I also dug through the boxes of stuff that came with the van. I found a carb and a set of manifolds.
They are both in rough condition. Maybe they were the original parts that were taken out for the "upgrades".
From what I have read, I think there are two options.
A. Disconnect the choke pull off from the lever and adjust the choke cable to work better.
B. Find a divorced choke and rod. Remove the choke cable and get the connect the rod in its place. Not sure if there are other issues with the vacuum lines.
Does that sound about right or am I missing something?
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
- Post n°30
Re: Manual Choke to Electric Choke Carburetor Conversion
by donivan65 Sat Nov 19, 2011 8:02 pm
That sure is your old manifold,,,,that hot idle compensator in the intake is rare,,,,I have one on my van,,,,,does that big blocked off pipe go into the intake or exhaust manifold? That is smog equipment off a newer engine...but you got the plan,,,,,see if you can make the choke cable work,,,,take its enemy, the choke pull-off, off temporarily, if you tie or clamp the cable housing to the dog house or carb, it will work better,,,,,and then look for one of these 6 cylinder chokes,,,,probably on all 1967-77 GM engines,,,,and probably only in the wrecking yards,,,,
cculella- Number of posts : 110
Location : Saint Louis, MO
Registration date : 2011-02-03
- Post n°31
Re: Manual Choke to Electric Choke Carburetor Conversion
by cculella Sun Nov 20, 2011 7:35 am
The blocked off pipe is part of the intake manifold.
Ok, I think we are almost there. Just a few more questions.
I found and bought a NOS choke from eBay like the one you show above. Once I install the new choke, does the choke pull-off stay installed and connected?
Out of the three carbs that you showed, why did you change to the Rochester Monojet?
Ok, I think we are almost there. Just a few more questions.
I found and bought a NOS choke from eBay like the one you show above. Once I install the new choke, does the choke pull-off stay installed and connected?
Out of the three carbs that you showed, why did you change to the Rochester Monojet?
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
- Post n°32
Re: Manual Choke to Electric Choke Carburetor Conversion
by donivan65 Sun Nov 20, 2011 10:23 am
You are getting close,,,,the automatic choke works too good,,,it shuts the air off to the carb and will kill the engine,,,,SO,,,as soon as it starts, the pull off OPENS the choke about 1/8" to let some air in so the engine can breathe, and thats where a lot of choke problems are,,,the choke closes BUT the pull off either opens the choke plate too much or too little and the engine won't run,,,,just watch that little rod on the chamber, it should pull in and pull the choke open a little,,, and you adjust that rod, called a link, until the choke works right,,,,that link is REAL IMPORTANT,,,,it will stop the choke from working,,,,and you need to hook it's little vacuum line to a port that has vacuum on it all the time.....the Rochester B was the 1st carbs on the vans,,,,then came the Carter YF's,,,,,then the 2nd gens came out with the automatic choke Rochester MonoJets,,,,and people like to put those MonoJets on their vans when their YF's or B's give up,,,,,they all work,,,the MonoJets replaced the other 2 as the years went on,,,,the gas line goes in from the front while the other 2 are on the passenger side,,,,
cculella- Number of posts : 110
Location : Saint Louis, MO
Registration date : 2011-02-03
- Post n°33
Re: Manual Choke to Electric Choke Carburetor Conversion
by cculella Mon Nov 21, 2011 1:13 pm
How do you know when your carb craps out or starts going bad? What are the symptoms? It would be good to know so I can tell what's going on in the future.
whopman- Number of posts : 387
Location : Columbus, Ga
Registration date : 2010-04-01
- Post n°34
Re: Manual Choke to Electric Choke Carburetor Conversion
by whopman Mon Nov 21, 2011 4:30 pm
since we are talking chokes ...donivan why are there 2 chokes on the pictured carb...there is one rod to heated manifold and one vacuum connected to a vacuum port on the carb base..????
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
- Post n°35
Re: Manual Choke to Electric Choke Carburetor Conversion
by donivan65 Mon Nov 21, 2011 5:44 pm
That's the enemies I am talking about,,,,,the choke has a thermostatic spring in it that pulls that rod down when cold and closes the choke,,,,and as it gets heat from the exhaust, it unwinds and pushes the rod up and that opens the choke,,,and life is good,,,,,,HOWEVER,,,,the engine won't RUN with the choke closed,,,it will start,,,,but the engine needs air to run,,,,so they put a vacuum operated Choke Pull-off on it and it's job is to let the choke close,,,and after the engine starts, vacuum from the carb causes its diaphram to pull in about 1/8" and since it is also hooked to the choke plate, it pulls the choke plate open JUST ENOUGH to let some air in,,,and the adjustment of that link on it is CRITICAL,,,,it can stop the choke from working,,,,if it does not let in enough air,,,the engine floods out,,,if it pulls too much,,,,it opens up the choke,,,,it's exactly like a little vacuum advance unit,,,the choke closes the plate/the pull off opens the plate,,,they need to be adjusted so they work together to start the cold engine and let it run until the carb warms up enough so that the gas will burn.......
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
- Post n°36
Re: Manual Choke to Electric Choke Carburetor Conversion
by donivan65 Mon Nov 21, 2011 6:05 pm
and whats a bad carb,,,,,most of the problems are fixable,,,,to make things simple, the carb needs to provide a mixture of 1 gal of gas to 14 gallons of air ,,,,thats what the spark plugs want,,,things happen to change that mixture,,,,most common is too much gas,,,,it floods out,,,there is a rubber type needle and seat in the fuel inlet to keep the bowl full,,,its just like the float set up in your toilet,,if it goes bad, you get too much gas,,,the other thing is too much air,,,vacuum leaks,,,as the miles go by, the throttle plate shaft wears out and that lets in more air and the engine runs lean,,,any gaskets on the intake manifold also let in air and that makes the mixture lean,,,,but I guess the simple check is look down the carb and see if gas is laying down in there when you shut the engine down to check for too much gas and, when the engine is idling, take the air cleaner off and spray a shot of carb cleaner in it,,,if the engine speeds up, that means too much air because it liked that shot of carb cleaner,,,make sure the mixture screw is adjusted,,,then you spray all around there until you find the air leak. There are other things, like if someone has not set the adjustments in the carb when they took it apart,,,and another thing, if the points are not good or set right, the carb won't work right,,,
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