Manual Choke to Electric Choke Carburetor Conversion

Like the title says, I am looking to replace my manual choke carb with a electric choke carb for my 1965 230 straight six. Winter is coming fast and it would be nice to have a faster starting van.

So far in my research, I have found a carb from a 70's chevy that work, but it was on eBay and I didn't win the auction. So I searched for the same carb elsewhere online and found out that the model of carb I was looking for has been renamed and has other companies making a similar model with different numbers. It's all very confusing and I don't know enough to be throwing money around for a few different carbs to see which works. Here is what I found in my journey:

http://thecarburetorwarehouse.com/Partdetails.aspx?Part=3-835&App=N

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/TMC0/1491.oap?year=1977&make=Chevrolet&model=G20&vi=1045167&ck=Search_carburetor_02431_1045167_-1&keyword=carburetor&pt=02431&ppt=C0359

I need to know if either of these will work or if there is another option that I have not found yet. Any help is appreciated.

- Charlie

Charlie i wish i had the answer for you as i am in the exact same boat (65/230). I'll be checking this thread daily. Hopefully someone knows!

i'm not sure if my manifold has the required holes for the temp rod. I did find something(spiral coil of metal that looks like a thermostat) right in the middle of the photo, but its on the manifold right next to the carb. See the image below. In the photo, the carb is at the top left and the front of the engine would be to the bottom right.

I'm thinking it might be easier and more dependable to find and install an electric carb, due to the fact that I wouldn't have to change out or tap a manifold. Do you know of which electric choke carbs would work for our vans?

That Part in above foto is called a "Divorced Choke" just make a rod from it to the carb choke rod(lever) and make sure the divorced choke works properly- if not replace it. Or=?? add an electric choke to carb ??

the carb with the electric choke will work on the
230/250 engines, just need 12 volt ignition to the
choke, no real need for the divorced model. the electric
model was made to simplify the operation of the choke.
the pics of the carb that cc has liks to are a late model
monojet, probably mid to late 70`s, that came on cars and
truck/ vans with the six. buy it wire it and adjust it
should work just fine.

The engine was "rebuilt" by a friend of the previous owner. So it seems there have been some modifications that make it hard to diagnose. I will try and get some zoomed out photos of what I am working with when it is daylight.

So the only engine mods that I am going to do is a HEI distributor and an auto choke carb. Not that it is unreliable now, but I think that would take a few possible issues out of the equation and get some better/smoother mpg while I am at it.

As far as knowing what I am doing, I have only worked on modern VW's. I am mechanical, but by no means a mechanic. So I know how these engines work on a basic level, but I was just introduced to this engine in January and have been trying to learn as much as possible. Hopefully making it more rock solid as I go.

So I will get the photos and get everyone's opinion from there.

I do so agree with donnivan = What we all are experienceing is the lack of parts guys & esp.= mechanic's that are not old school experienced. These newbies are not knowleageable
on our older vehicles & what made them run. The choke issue is an easy one to actually look at when its cold - start tye engine & again watch it work9or not??) - or easier is to take the divorced choke off - & boil some watse on stove & drop it in - watch closely- If that coil of metal moves quite a bit - its usually good & just needs hooked up. UNless=- someone has installed a different one or diff =carb?? and it needs to work in reverse?? Tahke a simple look to see how it works?

So this is what I am working with:







As of right now, the choke is very finicky. Most of the time, when starting it, I have to hold it closed manually(two fingers on the lever on the side of the carb) to get it to start in a timely manner. Otherwise it's a 10 minute cranking session. The choke cable is probably in need of adjustment. I am looking for a more reliable carb setup. Whether that's electric, divorced or manual, anything has to be better than the one I have. Maybe it just needs a rebuild or a serious tune-up. I don't know, that's why I am asking you guys. Let me know what you all think and if you need any other pictures/angles.

- Charlie

Well $%#&!!! No wonder it was hard to figure anything out. Also from reading your post and others, I have noticed that the choke knob works backward. You push it down to close it and pull it out to open it. Most of the time the cable gets stuck or the accelerator levers on the back prevent it from fully closing or opening. I also noticed that there is a tube or wire that goes from the base of the carb over to the base of the distributor. I am not sure exactly the function or if is a leftover from the auto-choke situation. If you guys could look over the photos and let me know your opinions on what I can do to correct my situation. Click on the photos to get to the full size.

Ok, so I tried to get as many shots from various angles as I could and label everything as I went. Let me know if you need other angles or areas shot.















Thanks again.

- Charlie

The choke is definitely set up backwards from the way it should be.

I checked the spark plugs and they don't fit a 5/8" socket.

There isn't any other vacuum chambers below the carb or in that general area. There is a hose that comes off the lower manifold that has been capped off. I wonder if that is what you are talking about and maybe it was capped because the manual choke cable was installed instead.

Take a look at the pictures, I have circled the capped hose. Also, I do believe that there is a spot for the divorced choke rod to attach to the manifold, I would just need to find one of those sensors to bolt on.









Thanks for all the help.

When the choke knob is down the plate closes sort of. It never makes it all the way closed by just pushing the knob. It helps if I actually hold the plate closed(via the linkage) when I go to start the engine.

I will try and get some more photos of the bolt above the capped hose. It's hard to get down in there for pictures.

So I have the correct manifold for the choke rod. That's one good thing so far. I will try and start it with the Coolant Temperature switch unplugged and see if it makes a difference.

Since it seems that this carb has been abused, would it make sense to purchase one like you have and get it professionally installed? Or do you think this can be salvaged with some TLC?

The previous owner gave me a bunch of extra parts that have come off the van over the years. One of them was a manifold. I'll look through the boxes of stuff and see if that choke sensor and rod are included.