Wiring up electric choke?

I have a edelbrock carburetor with an electric chock that a am installing on a 350 engine. I am wondering if anyone knows where I can pull the hot wire and ground wire from to hook up to the choke?

The ground can go back to itself, the power should be on a keyed/power-on circuit and fused. There might be other ways on power but thats the minimum I'd think. And ignore where the choke is set on this pic. think im at a couple marks forward of center right now.

the ground can be any metal structure that is clean, the chassis should be grounded already...as far as the hot you need to find a ignition switched hot wire. What are you putting it in ?

I am putting in in my 1969 Gmc Handi Van. It has an electronic distribuuter.

I seem to recall that I used to pull the hot wire from the fuse box. But it's been quite a while ago. I am just wanting to be on the safe side and get some good advice from you guys. Thanks for the help.

you want it to be on the switched circuit. i would go to the fuse block to see if you have a switched accessory slot if not you can tap off any of the pink wires in the dash harness.

Will check it out. It has the old glass fuses and has some accessory slots on the fuse block. I have checked them with a tester before but I cant rember if any of them had no power with the switch off. Thanks for your help

if you cant get one @ fuse block?? (should be able to) go to a key switch (switched on) circuit & run from there =WITH a fuse inline to choke.

The electric chokeshould not be on a switched conection to the fuse box. If you do this the choke will begin to heat and open anytime the key is on. Like wise the "run" circuit from the ignition switch is OK but also problematic and not the best choice. These will cause the choke to open out of phase with the actual engine tempature. or posibly open completely even before the engine is started and is still stone cold.
There was a time when GM conected the electric choke to the "RUN" circuit of the ignition switch but even that proved to be crap.
Finally in the early 70,s GM copied off Ford and it was realised the electric chokeshould be wired to the back of the alternator to the wire that puts out power out only when the engine is actually running (not just ignition turnrd on). This way the choke will have power "only"if and when the engine is actually running. If my memory serves me right I think that is the dummy light wire of the alternator, You need to check the alternator terminals for powe both when the alternator turning and not turning to figure out which to connect to.


Its a fact that most people I have heard complain about their electric choke and say they are garbage are the ones with it wired to the wrong power source.

hope this helps
M1D

I like that oil pressure switch idea. It would work well with a 1 wire Alt and in theory you wouldn't even have to run it thru the dash. it could run on its own feed from any Battery source.

I remember the three wire oil sender used just for that on GM cars in the mid 70,s. Not to be confused with the three wire oil presure switch that cut off ignition with low oil presure.
The ones that were hooked up to the alternator I think were conected to an unused stator terminal or something like that. I guess you have to have the right alternator for it.Thats why I said you have to test and find out for yourself. You might find an old wiring diagram to conferm it.
I also agree, a fuse or something needs to be used for circuit protection.
But the main point is it needs to be connected to a place where there is power only when the engine is actually running or your choke will give you problems.

M1D

i am liking this thread. Question?? if you tapped off a fused ignition source and went through a toggle switch located on the dash and only let the power flow to the choke when the toggle was activated wouldn't that be the same as the oil pressure switch except with manual control ?
kinda like an electric manual choke ?

Correct me if I am wrong but I think that the electric choke is designed for power to continually run to keep the choke open correct? I think that is why most manufactures of electric choke assembly's recommend connecting to a 12 volt ignition controlled fuse with 12 volts of continual power. I most defiantly agree with Donivan65 that either way you run your power source you will want to put an inline fuse link. I think that I might just go with a manual choke. It seems to be the easiest and safest way to go.

Your right. The electric is just to pull the choke open, The choke is actually set by the throttle linkage before you start it. After playing with it this season I am having no problems with it now. I do need to up my fast idle a bit yet tho.

Edelbrock has a fast idle screw under the bottom of the throttle you just open it wide open and it's under the bottom. I don't know if the quadrajet has one or not. My problem is after my van sits for a few days without being fired up it looses it's prime. I then have to open the dog house, remove the breather and choke it to get it fired up. This is in both winter & summer. I have replaced the fuel pump all of the rubber gas hoses new fuel filter in the carb inlet and at the back of the tank. I have spayed carb cleaner and starting fluid around the carb at the bottom where it bolts on to the intake and about everywhere else to check for bad gaskets and nothing. I bought a edelbrock 1406 carb with an electric choke that I am planning to replace the original carb with. I haven't inspected the choke on the quad yet but I think that the choke works off of vacuum pressure. I hate to dump my quad but if I can't get the choke working properly I am gonna have to switch em out.

Thanks for the pic and info Donivan65. That's a educational pic and explanation on how the electric choke system works.

for me the manual choke is the best and most economical, just dont let your wife drive your car........2corrosive