VintAGE-Vans

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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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Nightmoves
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    Early Sportvan Brake Lines

    1966G10
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    Post by 1966G10 Thu Jul 07, 2011 10:46 am

    Hello everyone,

    When I got my 1966 Chevy Sportvan there were no brake lines at all, and I am not too sure how they originally ran them. Does anyone have pictures of the underside of their van on how they ran theres? Anything will be helpful. Thanks
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    Post by Guest Thu Jul 07, 2011 6:52 pm

    I will be working on mine this saturday and will take pics if someone has not already posted some.
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    Post by donivan65 Thu Jul 07, 2011 7:14 pm

    You might as well get rid of the single line master cylinder and put a dual line on it from a 2nd Gen van,,,,,,,,,,


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    Post by 1966G10 Sat Jul 09, 2011 9:54 am

    I also had another question. I have the original master cylinder in it now, how much work and money would it cost to put a 2 line cylinder in it/
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    Post by donivan65 Sat Jul 09, 2011 10:47 am

    Cut the rear section out of the bracket that surrounds the single line master cylinder and put a 2 line in there,,,,,,you will have to lower the sway bar with a block and cut the slot deeper in the bellypan if you have them,,,,,,,


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    Post by donivan65 Sat Jul 09, 2011 10:55 am

    Early Sportvan Brake Lines Nodoor15


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    Post by m1dadio Sat Jul 09, 2011 12:22 pm

    What Don said:

    Best modification that can be done to a 1st gen is a duel circuit master. If you use the corvette style 1.125" bore master with the "ddep hole" for manual brakes ans a couple 10 lb residual check valves you will have a good solid brake pedal . Providing you blead it all correctly.

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    Post by donivan65 Sat Jul 09, 2011 6:11 pm

    Early Sportvan Brake Lines Vanaga13


    Early Sportvan Brake Lines Brake_12
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    Post by donivan65 Sat Jul 09, 2011 6:19 pm

    Early Sportvan Brake Lines Nodoor17
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    Post by 1966G10 Sat Jul 09, 2011 9:18 pm

    Where can you get a decent priced cylinder like that?
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    Post by donivan65 Sat Jul 09, 2011 9:56 pm

    Early Sportvan Brake Lines 2nd_ge11
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    Post by ScottyJones Wed Jul 18, 2012 3:54 pm

    Finally going to be doing this upgrade on my van this weekend. Im gonna make up some blocks for the sway bar. Don, are the little cut-outs on the blocks in the pictures above so you can turn a wrench inside there?
    Im assuming you're bolting the block to the frame, then bolting the sway bar to the block with separate bolts?

    Any other tips you have for this project? Thanks!
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    Post by ScottyJones Wed Jul 18, 2012 4:18 pm

    Shoulda used the search function earlier….answered my own question.

    I suppose it would be just as easy to get longer bolts and go through the bracket and the block, since mine has tapped holes in the frame for the sway bar (?)
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    Post by donivan65 Wed Jul 18, 2012 5:15 pm

    If you got tough blocks, longer bolts would work.....my van is a panel,,,,,no threads in the frame so those upper bolts you see is really a u bolt hanging down from in the frame,,,,,
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    Post by Nightmoves Thu Jul 19, 2012 12:21 am

    Don,thats great on the layout of all lengths for a dual set up.I was lookin,that single system has to go.When time will permit.
    Also,your sq.tubing,looks like 2" 11ga..Is that about right,for the sway drop?
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    Post by ScottyJones Fri Jul 20, 2012 8:05 am

    Don, would you be able to give me a breakdown of which length lines are used where?
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    Post by mbasaraba Fri Jul 20, 2012 9:12 am

    ScottyJones wrote:Don, would you be able to give me a breakdown of which length lines are used where?

    Might be easier going with Braided Stainless if all the mounting and everything is gone already? More expensive though I guess.

    This was great to see. Think I will get this rolling on the 66 also. I have a bunch of 2x2 11ga tubing scraps in the shop from my Van Lift build. Nice info Don. Thank you!
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    Post by donivan65 Fri Jul 20, 2012 10:34 am

    That set up is for disk brakes, but it is the same idea,,,,the master cylinder has 1/2" and 9/16" threads in it, so you need to adapt the 3/8" brake lines to fit into it,,,,and it depends on if you are using a combination, proportioning or pressure differential valve in the system,,,,,but the basic is slap 2 of the Carquest adapters into the master cylinder and screw the brake lines right into it. So to do it, put the 51" line from the LR wheel cylinder to the "T" on the rear end,,,,add a loop at the wheel cylinder to take up the extra length,, the 20" line goes from the "T" to the RR wheel cylinder,,,( braided hoses can replace the rubber hoses on the rear end and front wheels),,,then a 60" goes from the rubber hose on the rear end and you add a connector to it and put another 60" on it and run it like under the front floor in front of the radiator right into the master cylinder. then another 60" goes from the rubber hose on the RF wheel cylinder to a "T" near the master cylinder,,,,the 40" goes from the LF to that "T" then a short line connects the "T" to the other port in the master cylinder,,,,,,and make sure the cam is adjusted on the brake pedal pushrod before you bleed the system......


    Early Sportvan Brake Lines Brake_19
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    Post by donivan65 Fri Jul 20, 2012 10:49 am

    Here is a couple of different ways to connect up to the master cylinder,,,,,with the different type adapters,,,,,


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    Post by mbasaraba Fri Jul 20, 2012 11:07 am

    Don rocks. cheers
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    Post by donivan65 Fri Jul 20, 2012 11:15 am

    Nightmoves wrote:Don,thats great on the layout of all lengths for a dual set up.I was lookin,that single system has to go.When time will permit.
    Also,your sq.tubing,looks like 2" 11ga..Is that about right,for the sway drop?

    That's right Moe, it is 2" square tubing,,,,,and IF you don't have threaded holes, you can bend some 3/8" threaded rod and loop it up in and down and then bolt the tubing up to the frame and then bolt the sway bar mounts to it,,,,,,,


    Early Sportvan Brake Lines Nodoor58


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    Post by ScottyJones Fri Jul 20, 2012 11:46 am

    If I am just upgrading my stock drum brakes to the dual line system, will I also need to add combination or pressure differential blocks?
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    Post by donivan65 Fri Jul 20, 2012 1:14 pm

    Drum brakes don't use them,,,,,the 2nd Gens have a pressure differential valve block that both lines from the master cylinder go to,,,,,it just has a piston inside that, if one of the brake lines pressure drops or gets lower, the piston grounds out and this puts the brake warning light on which is in the dash,,,,,but I don't think you will be watching the dash if you lose your brakes,,,,
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    Post by ScottyJones Fri Jul 20, 2012 1:19 pm

    Perfect! Thanks for the info. I may be giving you a call this weekend if I run into any unforeseen problems.
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    Post by donivan65 Fri Jul 20, 2012 7:13 pm

    ,,,,,just as long as you don't run into me,,,,,,

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