so, my master cylinder went out last week and since my disc brake brackets just got here, i am gonna bite the bullet and tackle a huge job now instead of later. i think i have everything i need as far as a parts list from Leadfoot and Michel (M1dadio) except i want to redo my brake lines as well. so i am not sure where to start. i did a search on VCVC and Here and i cant find part #s for any flex hoses or a source. and i have never redone hard lines before either but would be willing to spend a few bucks on the kit to bend them, etc. to use on my van and future products. can the hard lines and the kit to flare the ends be bought at any auto parts store? i guess i am lookin for any suggestions.... thanks james
I hope you are getting rid of that single line master cylinder. And you don't want to be driving around on 40 year old brake lines anyways. You need new hoses for the calipers and that just leaves the rear brake hose to change. Here is a list of Napa part numbers,,,,,they are the armored type that are spring wound so you can bend them by hand to make them fit. I just converted the Blue No Door over to a dual line master cylinder with all new lines. From there its pretty easy to add the brackets, calipers, brake hoses and proportioning valve .
ordered the majority of my parts needed today. i pick them up tomorrow and start the swap over. i know a few guys have already done this but i will try to take pics and keep you guys updated on my progress. i am doin this 100% solo which is an undertaking for my novice skills but thats how i learn. and i know you guys are always here with advice. james
So what are you going to do?????Disk Brakes with a single line master cylinder????,,,,,Drum brakes with a dual line master cylinder????,,,,,,,,,Disk brakes with a dual line master cylinder????
sorry, i guess i wasnt too clear. i am doing discs on the front, drums on the rear. dual MC from a 68 vette with external residual valves just like leadfoot and M1dadios instructions. i just figured i would redo all the lines as well. i havent decided if i am gonna use a proportioning valve as well or not.... james
You have to add new lines anyway when you separate the rear brake line from the front brake lines on a single line master cylinder. You need a proportioning valve if you add front disks. You can buy an adjustable one or use a 3rd Gen combination valve which contains all the valves in it as well as the brake pressure warning light switch.
I am installing the M1D type front brakes too and one thing you will need to do is clean up the hubs. I don't have a lathe so I used an electric motor and a fan belt to make the van becomee a lathe. The posted photos show what I did. Kakster
Here are some more images of the clean up and test fits: Here is the hub after surfacing and paint Here are some test fit photos Not sure if these BMW OZ rims will work, but I like the way they look:
don, i heard that you dont need a proportioning valve if you run 2 residual valves (2lb. for disc and 10lb. for drum). what is the reason for the proportioning valve? i have a very limited knowledge of brake systems....til today at least. thanks james
p.s. kakster, nice setup with the fan belt. i have a bench grinder, but yours looks like more fun. your van looks real clean, by the way.
I guess its just how safe you want to be. Drums and Disks need different pressures to work. Disks need more. So that is why drums lock up when you hit the brake pedal,,,you want to STOP.....Thats why they use a proportioning valve to to cut down the pressure to the rear. And those check valves are just for brake pedal height. to hold back the pressure so the pedal does not have to go down so far when you step on it. The 1st Van I did we just put the kit on a 2nd Gen,,,,,rear brakes locked up everytime. So I put an adjustable proportioning in the rear brake line and dialed it so all 4 wheels stopped equally. No check valves. And the guy is Happy and still alive. I didn't want to mess with the check and proportioning valves so I just used a combination valve off a 3rd Gen which has all that stuff built into it. And it has a pressure switch built into it for a dash brake warning light that comes on 2 seconds before you die. Also, you need a junction block to connect all the brake lines to the master cylinder,,,,,and they are all different thread sizes. Here is a diagram of a conversion,,,,,,and the APV,,,adjustable proportioning valve, is the main component...
thanks, donivan. that makes sense. i am goin to order the residual valves and wanted to investigate the proportioning valve so i could order all at once. so the proportioning valve only goes on the rear line? i appreciate the info. i knew you guys would get me through this big project.
and on a former note, my hubs fit in in the rotors without any grinding or sanding. they had a little (very little) give so i wasnt like i had to force them. i will however need to grind down the brackets for the rotor just a hair like the instructions said.
lastly, the last bolt that holds my backing plate on and also the steering assembly to the spindle (lower bolt) was rusted in place and snapped off. that'll need to be drilled out i think since i dont have a hot enough torch to heat it. what a pain.
Those other Hot Rod kits use the valves because the master cylinders are under the car and the whole purpose is to keep the calipers and wheel cylinders from forcing the fluid back into the master cylinder. I don't think our vans have that problem,,,,,that never happened with the drum brakes. But,,,,I guess it wouldn't hurt,,,,,I would think that pressure would kind of cause the brakes to drag all the time, since it always traps 10 and 20 lbs in each line,,,,but you tell me how it worked out. I put the adjustable proportioning valve on my Buddys 69 right where the metal line connects to the rear brake hose at the differential,,,,Scott has his right on the master cylinder,,,,,,,
That steering knuckle bolt kind of bends and is hard to get out. Its not threaded in so maybe just soak it and hit it with a punch or press it out with a C Clamp,,,,,,or hit the steering knuckle or use a chisel to try and separate the two......
Hey Xjames, Even though you did not need to grind so much, I would make sure there is a flat mating between the hub and rotor. I flipped the hub over and checked the clearance between the two parts with a feeler gague and found I needed to grind a bit more on the inner part of the hub. I posted a photo showing how I made certain they fit well. When the two parts were held together the way they will be once assembled it was too easy to miss that the hub wasn't completely flat against the rotor.
Thats the major difference in these 2 disk brakes kits,,,,,on the 1st edition, that I have, you don't have to mess with your old hub and studs,,,,,just grab a 73 Chevy Nova front rotor from Autozone for $38 add grease and put it on......
so i got my Prop. valve and residual valves in the mail yesterday. today i had yardwork, etc. to do but got a hour to spend on the disc drake swapover. i spent that hour trying to get the busted bolt out of the spindle and steering knuckle. i got it out of the spindle but it is still stuck in the steering knuckle. i have about 1 inch sticking out on each side. i tried rust remover, wd-40 and a BFH. it wont budge. i'll figure somethin out but i cant move forward until i get this out. any suggestions are welcome. thanks guys james
You need to get mean with it. I know I would try this ball joint installer with an impact wrench and press it out. You probably would need to heat up that area with a torch to break it free. Its probably rusted in there pretty good. You could take it to a place with a hydralic press and see if they could press it out. Or take a little hydralic bottle jack and put a socket over one side and put it under a car and try and jack it out.
thanks for the tip, donivan. i got the bolt out after i removed the steering "assembly" thing pictured above. unfortunately while doin that i tapped the ball joint thing on the draglink to separate it and must have (very slightly) mushroomed the top thread on it and now the nut wont thread on properly so the ball joint just spins in the end. i have to buy a tap/die tomorrow to clean up the threads. they look fine but it must be off a hair cause i cant get that nut on it. but i have to do this first before i move onto the brakes.
anyway, should make some actual progress tomorrow on the brakes. i have all the components test-fit properly and painted (thought it would help prevent rust in the future) so after i clean up the threads, i'm onto real stopping power!
does anyone know if you can buy a new draglink if need be? or any other cars that have the same one/length? i probably wont need it but just in case... thanks again james
I would take the nut off the other end of the drag link at the pitman arm and see if it is more agreeable to going on the other end. And see if the other nut works up front. I guess a 4 wheel drive place could make up a new drag link,,,,,,You could just grab that ball joint with vice grips by the taper before you put it in the steering knuckle and see if you can get a nut to go on it.........
thanks again. i tried the other nut and it didnt work. i ended up buying a 5/8ths tap and cleaned up the threads. which was weird cause they didnt look that bad to begin with but i think 2 whacks of a hammer and years of road grime, rust, etc. didnt help. so after i got that back together, the rest of the day was very productive and the disc brake "kit" went on so smooth it wasnt funny. i got the brackets on, the hubs back on (with new studs), the rotors on and the calipers/pads in place. i didnt want to rush anything so i still have to locktite a few things in place (mainly the caliper bolts- good idea or no?). then i will mount the proportioning valve and plumb it next week. so to anyone thinkin of doin this swapover, i must say that Michels (M1dadio) brackets and instructions/parts list is great. so thanks to him and Leadfoot for getting these out to us van enthusiasts. more next week, thanks for the tips guys, couldnt have done it without you. james
I finished bleeding the brakes and threw on the tires, threw the tools in the back and went for a (careful) cruise. it drove AWESOME!!!! well, stopped awesome i should say. i need to clean out the back completely and then take it out and dial in the proportioning valve for the rears a little more without everything sliding around the back. that'll happen this weekend.
thanks for all the input. i did ALL the labor myself , which was a big feat for me since i gutted the old brakes completely and redid the whole system, but i couldnt have done it without you guys. my appreciation goes beyond words, but heres a thanks, james