***** New UPDATE ******
kiwimopar wrote:UPDATE April 2019
Still working on the disc brake conversion to my A100.
I want to know how many other people have done this conversion, used a Scarebird kit and parts list, and survived the ordeal?
This is an absolute nightmare. nearly every twist and turn is throwing up a new problem. I will do a full analysis and breakdown of issues when complete....soon I hope. But in the meantime....the backing plates were fine and fitted...but the bolts supplied are too short, suggested parts numbers for the hoses are completely off the planet, calipers are mis-matched - as in not identical pairing, no allowance for the factory optional sway bar was made in the design, suggested rotors need drilling out for the Dodge studs (which will also be too short), wheel bearings need replacing as the national ones I bought are made in China,.....it goes on and on.
When I say the bolts are too short, I mean that legally here in New Zealand, there must be a minimum of 3 threads protruding after the nut....not just tucked inside the nut like the Scarebird supplied bolts. Also, the grade of hardness is suspect. And there is no way that Nyloc's are legal for use on suspension or brake hardware here in New Zealand - they can come loose over time, and cannot be re-used. We have to use Cone Nuts....not even castle nuts will work, as you cannot drill the hardened bolts.
Now I find that my "Wheel Vintiques" rims are an issue...in fact they have a serious design flaw. The inner face where the stud comes through is not on the mating surface of the rotor....there is a 1/4" space, meaning that you can keep tightening the lug nuts until they pull through the wheel. Not a great design.....you either run the risk of a wheel coming loose, or over-tighten and damage the wheels.
More info later on.....grrrrrrr.
Managed to get some more work done on the brake upgrade to my A100.
New hard lines made for front wheels, and also new lines to the newly installed Wilwood proportioning valve. Don't trust the original proportioning valve....too old and crusty - was giving a red light on all the time.....besides, I need the extra ports.
New hoses were eventually made locally - 3/8" x 24 as stock for the hard line end, with a 10mm banjo and a 45 degree bend for the caliper end. Very sexy looking hoses.
New bolts and cone nuts installed now, and sway bar removed completely for now. Will revisit the sway bar issue another day - probably a custom sized unit and different end links.
Rear lines are all good - made 10 years ago and as mint as when they were installed. Installing a Roll-Control unit out the back for burnouts pre-staging when racing....and for the odd local burnout....lol
Mag wheels now being sourced to overcome the steel wheel issues....more money....
Installed a Remote vacuum booster to give a nicer feel to the new disc brakes. Very expensive but tidy unit. Available in Australia and designed with the Hot-Rod market in mind.
I just have a few parts to buy now - barbed fitting for the vacuum off the intake manifold, some vacuum hose and a few bolts for the little stuff.
Rotors had the stud holes drilled out only, and the hubs were turned down to suit the hole in the rotors - that way, a rotor change is easier - only needing the stud holes opened up.
Rotors will get a minor finish cut to make 100% sure all is running true when the job is done.
Also going to mount a piece of angle across the chassis just behind the radiator to support and protect the front brake line to the passenger side. Don't know what the original look was, but it definitely is warranted.
Apart form all of that....I cannot see how any person can expect to do a swap over like this in a weekend, like the guy at Scarebird claims is possible.