Looking for a picture diagram for a manual column

I am trying to find a picture diagram for the manual steering column and steering wheel. Trying to figure out what i would need to do to make the horn work while using an adapter and different steering wheel.

Thanks

That pic is of a 61 to early 64 column, and the turn assembly in it is the same unit up to 66, different than the 67's. IF you have the 67 type turn assembly, it will have one more part, a horn contact ring on the bottom of the steering wheel (attached with three sheet metal screws) that the ground contact hits instead of it being like the one in the picture. The black plastic insulator and the spring brush itself are all the same from 61 to 74 (as is the steering wheel itself).
vic

Old Skool wrote:That pic is of a 61 to early 64 column).
vic

Vic and I talked about this recently. Actually the change was made in 63 so that one shown is correct for 61 to early 63(triangle dash plate). Late 63 and 64 were the same(semi triangle,part of it sat level and part bent downward). 65 thru 67 being yet another version(basically like the late 63/64 ones but on steroids with a larger flat section,aka pencil tray).
Funny but I never noticed til now the error in the book on the early horn button as shown in the first page Donivan posted. They early 61/62 button did say Ford and Econoline on it but it said FORD across the bottom,not the top like the picture shows.
I just looked at the pics again and discovered another error. In the 2nd pic,it actually showns what appears to be the late 63/64 column mismatched with the 61-early 63 triangular plate. The triangle shaped plate bolted up to the column with bolts that went horizontal thru the bracket,not vertical like the holes shown in the bracket. I could be mistaken but that plate sure looks triangular to me.

Hey, new to the forum. I have an old Pac Bell 1962 Ford Econoline 144. I have some play in my manual shift column and when I pulled off the wheel and turn signal, I noticed the bracket holding the top of the column in place has broken. What's the best fix/replacement for this? Thanks

That is very common. That sheet metal being broken totally screws up shifting, takes the spring out of the mechanism. Easiest fix is to mig weld it back together on either side. I had to do it to mine but only on one side and it had already been welded(poorly) before on that side. You probably didn't notice b/c both side of yours are broken, when just one side breaks the shift rod binds up as it pivots/bends the other side.

Thanks for the reply. Any idea on a part number? If not, no biggie...welding doesn't sound like a bad idea.

Old Skool Vic, up in your area, might have that part,,,,,,

Ahhh yes. Thanks

Replacing that part would be more trouble than it's worth, just weld it.

Short memories again,,, LOL,,,,  I have been specializing in rebuilding and building custom steering columns for many years with MANY, MANY, MANY, MANY posts and a lot of time spent helping people on this forum,, and now all of a sudden a bunch of experts who dont know what they are talking about,, kinda makes me feel like I have been wasting my time,,, LOL
  As a newbie its not your fault and so no hard feelings there. I have at least four dozen of those broken parts here to include another dozen of the "WELDED" units,,,   
  That part is not strong enough from the get go and the stronger unit is very difficult to locate. So if so easy weld then perhaps one more for my junk pile,,,, 
  In addition what happened to all the explanations I have spent so much time helping all of you with,,, there are two other areas that cause it to get stuck in gear after you replace the top part, WHICH IS SO DIFFICULT TO REPLACE,, SIMPLY DRILLING OUT TWO RIVETS,,   I guess some are challenged using a drill bit,,,,
So,,, if you would like some help with your steering column,, please PM me and I will be happy to help you,, I have a complete shop full of them and to include the parts for them,,, as apparently posting it here has fallen on deaf ears,,,,
Vic, aggravated,,,,

vlafountaine@socal.rr.com

,,,,,,to make things easier for,,,,,,,,,,everyone,,,,,,,I put up a new section for Vics work,,,,,,so we can find it,,,,,,and he can just say,  "just look in my shop" and not have to keep writing everything over when someone asks the same question,,,,,,,and they will,,,,,,,,,,



,,,now if I can figure out how to move stuff into it,,,,,


https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t50223-vics-old-skool-shop

You don't have to be so damned rude Vic. I'm just trying to help the guy out, no one's claiming to be an expert but YOU. The Grand Poobah of econoline repair as it were, the fountain from which all knowledge flows and the origin of all that is correct and best. And everything else is.... I agree w/ what you've said, the part is weak. Anyone who looks at it can figure that out. It's not the drilling out the rivets(drrr   ), it's going through the trouble to fabricate a new one, not worth it to me. Obviously you feel differently. And you know what Vic? That's ok. And I won't belittle or berate you for it. I'll let you know when mine breaks. Welding may not improve the part but it will fix it in hurry and last a long time. I tried to buy one those columns off you or have mine rebuilt, as well as many other things... none of which ever happened, it's probably my fault though...

So are you saying you have an improved, heavier duty replacement part you are selling or just an entire column rebuild? And what's the realistic time frame? 1 month? 3 months? 6 months? a year?