New Fuse Block

Headlights too, Nice piece of wood!

Hahahaha... Sorry Scott, you kinda did ask to get nailed by Don for asking that question!

I think he's happy we all don't live next door! We would drive him nuts! But you look like your wiring has be completely redone so you'll need to hit the diagrams if you plan on putting in a stock or aftermarket fuse block. Other than the obvious fact that you have a... 'EXTREMELY RARE! Antique Fuse Block'. Why are you replacing it? Is it not working or do you want to return it to stock?

https://sites.google.com/site/vcvcvanaticmap/colorizied-wiring-for-a-2nd-gen-chevy-van
Scott, here is a link to a 67-70 wiring diagram for your van.

Scott,
What kind of fuse block did you use? Did you buy a wiring harness? If so what kind? I will be rewiring my van next. I think I am going to use a EZ wiring harness
http://www.ezwiring.com/wiring_harness.html
$170.00

Scott you might want to consider this option. GP70 did this swap on his a few years back. This is from one of his post from the old forum.

I had the opportunity to grab some parts off a 73 or 74 Chevy Pickup a few months ago and one of the things I grabbed
was the fuse box. The fuse holding tabs are rusted thru and hardle make contact anymore. Didn't give a good look
but thought I could draft it into the 70 somehow. Well, yesterday I take a look at it and, son of a b***h, if it isn't a direct
match to the one on the 70. Talk about lucking out. There will be some splicing involved, but if anyone is looking for a
new fusebox for their Sec. Gen., look no fiurther then a 73 pickup. And I suppose you could grab as much of the wiring
harness out of a 73 and keep the splicing down to a minimum.

Original







73 pickup




_________________
gp70

There use to be wiring diagram here and that should say what fuse

Fuses should protect the wire. To really dial it in you need to know what the load is from each item on any circiut. I got this from a quickie google search for an example. http://www.oznium.com/forum/topic15761 It also makes a difference on how long the wire is going to travel, stuff in the dash not so far,, If its traveling to the back of the DH wire size would need to be adjusted to allow for that. I know I have found better tables for this but they didnt pop up this time ..

On the 1st gen diagram I have it also shows a 20ga. Does seem pretty lite??

I went through the fuse box resuscitation about a year ago on my '67.

Water dripping down from the leaky windshield (rust?) had done a number on it. I applied copious amounts of electromotive spray cleaner, which unfortunately had the side effect of making most of the labeling invisible or at least hard to read.

Then I pulled all the fuses and sanded or fine filed the contacts free of most rust. Then I added copious amounts of silicone grease to the terminals. Back in went the glass fuses (new in most cases) and haven't had much of a problem since. Until I replace the windshield and gasket and fix whatever else is causing the leaking, I try to keep it out of the rain.

Good to see a pick of the '73 fuse box because it gives me an idea of what the labels are supposed to be...

Eventually, I may go to the blade type mini or micro fuses. But for right now the glass is ok. Any water on a fuse box is bad news, and while I suppose the aluminum legs on the mini fuses are more resistant to corrosion than the chrome plated steel on the glass fuses, I figure as long as the glass stays dry it should be OK. And aluminum can corrode in water, as well, forming that nasty white powder.

You mileage may vary.

one thing you could try to keep the corrosion and rust to a min,
get some de-electric grease, same thing as the light bulb grease
and lightly coat all the contacts in the fuse box and the fuses, if
it works on the light bulbs it sould work on the fuses. what u think?

Silicone grease == dielectric grease