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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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kookykrispy
BILLS66
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    1966 Chevy Sportvan questions

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    haggisholder


    Number of posts : 43
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    Post by haggisholder Mon Aug 26, 2013 3:59 pm

    haggisholder wrote:
    donivan65 wrote:They all need a ground circuit,,,,,,those front lights will crawl all the way up to the turn signal dash bulbs to get theirs IF  the front bulbs can't get to their ground by the grille,,,,,so take a test light,,,,,hook it to a good ground,,,,,,,take the lens off,,,,,,stick the bulb and its base  with the  headlight switch pulled 1/2 way out,,,,,this should put the parking and tail lights on,,,,,,do it for the turn signals,,,,,now if your test light glows while you jab the base of the bulb,,,,,,that bulb has lost its ground and is crawling into your test light,,,,,so run the test,,,,,,also,,,,if someone put a 1 terminal bulb in the parking light socket,,,,,that is the wrong bulb,,,,,,that will cause you problems,,,,,,
    I will try a test light and post back.  I thought about making a temporary jumper wire to ground the turn signal holder to a good ground....

    Front bulbs each have 2 filaments.  Have not checked rear lights, since I didn't have any trouble with them and since the red lenses will fall apart if I try to remove them...
    Have not tested the lights and so forth yet.  Will tonight.  However, I did just find a wiring diagram on this site, which is helpful.

    It looks like the headlight switch, when halfway out, allows current to flow on the purple wires, which illuminates one filament - the parking light - in each lamp.  

    The turn signal switch on the other hand, when selecting right turn, should send current to the dark blue wires.  If the left signal illuminates at the same time, there could be a short between the dark blue and purple wires out beyond the switch.  However, if this were the case, wouldn't selecting left hand turn also cause the right hand signal to flash?

    Seems like a bad turn signal switch.  However, after seeing some pics of the switch also on this site, I'm not sure how this could be.

    Maybe I'll zero in on it later...
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Mon Aug 26, 2013 5:38 pm

    Anything is possible after all these years,,,,,however,,,,,,each bulb has a built in burglar alarm,,,,if another circuit has stolen its ground,,,,,the light comes on,,,,,,,,and say if the ground goes bad on any light socket, there will be feedback through the bulb and back into the other wire and filament,,,,,,when a turn signal bulb on the dash comes on with the headlights, that usually means one of the outside light assemblies lost its ground to the van body,,,,,take out a bulb,,,see if problem goes away,,,,,,(if the wires were shorted, the problem will still be there),,,and easiest way to test for a bad ground connection is to use a test light,,,,,,turn lights on,,,,,,touch the bezel,,,,,,,take lens off,,,,touch the housing,,,,,,touch the actual bulb base,,,,,that bulb has to go through 4 different pieces of metal before it actually gets to the ground circuit on the van body,,,,,if test light glows,,,,,ground is BAD,,,,,


    1966 Chevy Sportvan questions - Page 4 Repair19
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    haggisholder


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    Post by haggisholder Mon Aug 26, 2013 10:56 pm

    donivan65 wrote:Anything is possible after all these years,,,,,ground is BAD,,,,,
    You are a genius with these vans.  Thanks for the help.  I fixed multiple bad ground issues and all of the signals work, even with the loose turn signal switch.

    Until recently, this van was last driven regularly in 98 - by me.  Everything functions, including all lights, except for one thing now - the windshield wiper pump system.  The original fluid bladder is intact, with no leaks, but filling it and using the pump button does not cause any pumping action.  I know there are aftermarket kits and it seems like I saw a post regarding priming the pump before using it but I don't see a primer bulb or anything.  Local inspectors always want to see the washer pump function.  I wonder if it is exempt as a 66 or if because the equipment was included, it has to function?

    I notice the fusebox has a space for a hazzard flasher?  Where under the dash might the switch be located?  There is no switch on the column.

    Don, I saw a pic of one of your vans, probably the red one, and it looked as if you put down a new sheet metal floor under the driver and passenger front areas?  I have some rust through in these areas and wondered if you fix from the bottom or top sides, or both.

    I will post some more pics soon to discuss rust issues but for now, there are plenty of things to address first.

    Also, I need an interior sun visor to replace the rotted original and a glove box door latch (not the part with the button on the little door but the catch on the dash).  Where should I look for those?

    Thanks again Don.

    By the way, the surfer guy van restore thread is amazing......
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Mon Aug 26, 2013 11:46 pm

    Is there a spot for a Hazard Flasher in your fuse box?   The optional 4 way flasher switch has the flasher mounted on the switch and the switch gets mounted to the right of the fuse box,,,,,is there a pump mounted on top of your wiper motor,,,,do you see it moving when you push the button,,,,,,,use a paper clip as a glove box catch,,,,,,lots of ways to fix rust,,,,,Bondo,,,, fiberglass,,,rivet a plate over it or cut it out and weld in fresh metal,,,,,,now here is a link to rust,,,,,,VanAgains New 65 Chevy SportVan Deluxe,,,, the BLUE one,,,,,,not to be confused with VanAgains NEWEST 65 Chevy SportVan Deluxe,,the Green and White one,,,,,,


    https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t2234-back-to-vanagains-new-65-sportvan-deluxe





    1966 Chevy Sportvan questions - Page 4 Nodoor11



    1966 Chevy Sportvan questions - Page 4 Nodoor12


    1966 Chevy Sportvan questions - Page 4 Nodoor13
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    haggisholder


    Number of posts : 43
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    Post by haggisholder Tue Aug 27, 2013 9:37 am

    donivan65 wrote:Is there a spot for a Hazard Flasher in your fuse box?   The optional 4 way flasher switch has the flasher mounted on the switch and the switch gets mounted to the right of the fuse box,,,,,is there a pump mounted on top of your wiper motor,,,,do you see it moving when you push the button,,,,,,,use a paper clip as a glove box catch,,,,,,lots of ways to fix rust,,,,,Bondo,,,, fiberglass,,,rivet a plate over it or cut it out and weld in fresh metal,,,,,,now here is a link to rust,,,,,,VanAgains New 65 Chevy SportVan Deluxe,,,, the BLUE one,,,,,,not to be confused with VanAgains NEWEST 65 Chevy SportVan Deluxe,,the Green and White one,,,,,,


    https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t2234-back-to-vanagains-new-65-sportvan-deluxe





    1966 Chevy Sportvan questions - Page 4 Nodoor11
    My fusebox looks like that, including the spot for the hazzard flasher.  I don't see a switch though.  Will take a closer look.  Will also check for a fluid pump...

    I know there are sheet metal panels for these vans.  My van has rust along the bottom edges of the panels where they curve underneath the van (see page 2 of this thread).  When cutting out to replace those areas, would I have to have donor parts or can regular sheet metal be used?

    Has anyone coated the underside of these vans with bedliner or other protective material other than paint?

    Donivan, I know you haven't done an inspection of my van but when looking at the pics in page 2 of this thread, what condition would you rate it in comparison to what you see and have seen?

    None of the damage to the van was caused by me but previous drivers have told me about various things. The front right passenger side headlight area is dented because someone hit a deer. The rear doors were impacted by another vehicle when this van was parked. Apparently a vehicle rolled down the street in neutral and smacked into it. I might need a couple of rear doors....

    Would like to change the transmission oil and rear diff oil. This will allow me to also examine the rear gears. Do you have tips for that (qty, type/weight)? Is the procedure for the transmission to fill until it runs out the fill hole? How about for the diff?

    Thanks
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    haggisholder


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    Post by haggisholder Tue Aug 27, 2013 12:04 pm

    Failed due to tires.  Next question.... what was the original tire size?  It has 185/70/14s on it right now.

    Found this link:
    http://www.gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits/G-Van/1966-Chevrolet-G-Van.pdf

    7.35-14-4
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    Post by donivan65 Tue Aug 27, 2013 12:45 pm

    let me start on these questions,,,,,,,that terminal on your fuse box is for the orange wire that comes from the 1st Gen OPTIONAL ADD ON 4 way flasher unit,,,,,,,,,now look how things changed in 1967,,,,,,that little red button on a 2nd Gen, replaced ALL  these wires, connectors and switch  in this picture,,,,(talkin about Mother Nature taking its course with progress in technology)


    1966 Chevy Sportvan questions - Page 4 Nodoor14


    1966 Chevy Sportvan questions - Page 4 4wayts10
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    haggisholder


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    Post by haggisholder Tue Aug 27, 2013 1:36 pm

    haggisholder wrote:Failed due to tires.  Next question.... what was the original tire size?  It has 185/70/14s on it right now.

    Found this link:
    http://www.gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits/G-Van/1966-Chevrolet-G-Van.pdf

    7.35-14-4
    http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/45_conversionchart.html

    If I am reading that chart correctly, it is listing the following substitute sizes:
    P195/75R14
    205/70R14
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    Post by donivan65 Tue Aug 27, 2013 1:47 pm

    Tires depend on what rims you got,,,,,,,,or what rims you like,,,,,,if you want them to wear evenly,,,,,,these vans came with 13" rims,,,,,,,I have 15" rims on mine,,,,,,,these 17" tires and rims work on my van also,,,,,,,you need tires that are as wide as your rims and not so tall that they rub the wheelwells as you turn,,,,,,,,,so there are endless combinations that will work,,,,,,,


    1966 Chevy Sportvan questions - Page 4 17_inc10
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    Post by haggisholder Tue Aug 27, 2013 3:22 pm

    donivan65 wrote:Tires depend on what rims you got,,,,,,,,or what rims you like,,,,,,if you want them to wear evenly,,,,,,these vans came with 13" rims,,,,,,,I have 15" rims on mine,,,,,,,these 17" tires and rims work on my van also,,,,,,,you need tires that are as wide as your rims and not so tall that they rub the wheelwells as you turn,,,,,,,,,so there are endless combinations that will work,,,,,,,


    1966 Chevy Sportvan questions - Page 4 17_inc10
    That van is the bomb.

    Looks like 14" rims were optional. The old tires on there now consist of 3 different sizes... lol...
    195 70 14
    185 70 14
    185 75 14

    The shop recommended 215 75 14.

    Time to go shopping....
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    Post by donivan65 Tue Aug 27, 2013 3:24 pm

    ,,,,,,some more answers,,,,,,,the trans and rear end take about 4 quarts of 85w-90 gear oil between them,,,,,you keep pouring or squirting it into their fill plug holes until it flows out,,,,,there is special additives for the rear end IF it is a PosiTraction unit,,,,,,these vans are all worn out,,,,they all need work,,,,,all the metal on them is basically 16 gauge sheet metal,,,,,,cut and bend it to fit the bad stuff on your van......they do make replacement rocker panel pieces,,,,,,but we just usually make our own pieces and weld it in,,,,,,,with a MIG welder,  you can build a whole new van out pieces of metal,,,,,,,see if you even got a mechanical washer pump on your wiper motor,,,,,,hoses from the reservoir and spray nozzles should be running to it,,,,,,,



    1966 Chevy Sportvan questions - Page 4 Wiper_10
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    Post by donivan65 Tue Aug 27, 2013 3:31 pm

    I painted the bottom and insides of my van with Zero Rust 9 years ago,,,,still looks the same,,,,,,,



    1966 Chevy Sportvan questions - Page 4 Pc030910
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    Post by haggisholder Thu Sep 05, 2013 10:57 pm

    Thanks to Don and the group, the van is legally back on the road again after about 15 years of being parked.  I'll post pics later.

    Slow going but in one way or another, I have addressed the following so far:
    brakes
    oil
    coolant
    air filter
    gas cap
    windshield
    tires

    I plan to flush the rear diff and transmission next. My rear diff is the 10-bolt version and though the engine revs high at speed, the van seems to be able to pull 65 or 70+ indicated, although I don't try to push it there. (A radar suggested the speedo is at least 5mph high)...

    1.  Do any of you use a vehicle cover for these vans (to help protect them from the elements)?  
    2.  When resealing the seams and joints, does one have to scrape out any old sealant befor applying new?  What type of sealant should be used?  This is going to be a priority.  The roof is in serviceable condition, providing it doesn't rust much further...  Maybe someone has some info on how to reseal?
    3.  My van does have the wiper fluid pump but it doesn't work.  I'm going to check voltage - I suspect a faulty pump or wiring...
    4. What's the best insulator/glue/caulk to use on the interior roof support beams to glue the roof to the beams (so the roof doesn't rattle)?

    Thanks
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Thu Sep 05, 2013 11:34 pm

    I would scrape off all the old seam sealer in the drip rails,  spray rust convertor on it and in the rafters inside the van to stop the rust,,,,,,,use seam sealer to glue the bows back to the roof also,,,,,


    1966 Chevy Sportvan questions - Page 4 Repair34
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    Post by haggisholder Fri Sep 06, 2013 7:53 am

    donivan65 wrote:I would scrape off all the old seam sealer in the drip rails,  spray rust convertor on it and in the rafters inside the van to stop the rust,,,,,,,use seam sealer to glue the bows back to the roof also,,,,,


    1966 Chevy Sportvan questions - Page 4 Repair34
    Thanks. I see Eastwood has all of that stuff...

    I see that people report that it works well over 100% rust but if there are any paint spots, the stuff will not cure atop existing paint. My van has a lot of original paint, albeit tremendously faded. I think this would be a problem in my situation. What do you think? I will post some pics.
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    Post by donivan65 Fri Sep 06, 2013 9:43 am

    Well you can buy a can of rust convertor at WalMart,,,,,seam sealer at Napa,,,,,,you just want to neutralize any rust in the drip rails then cover it with the sealer that sticks to EVERYTHING,   even stuff you dont want it to stick to,,,,,,,they never primed the underside of the roof,,,,,spray the neutralizer/rust encapsulator/converter  up in the railing  ,,,that the rust eating its way up and out to the drip rails......
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    Post by donivan65 Fri Sep 06, 2013 11:53 am

    1966 Chevy Sportvan questions - Page 4 Repair35
    DanTheVanMan
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    Post by DanTheVanMan Fri Sep 06, 2013 8:16 pm

    Can't find the Purple Power around here in Florida anymore!!! Errrr! Love that stuff!


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    <-<-<- Cruising is not a "Point A to Point B" thing, but an "Everything in between thing!  <-<-<-
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    Post by donivan65 Fri Sep 06, 2013 8:22 pm

    I have to smuggle bottles back in my motorhome after I buy them at Advance Auto in Chicago,,,,,,,
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    Post by DanTheVanMan Fri Sep 06, 2013 9:54 pm

    Smart move Don!!!!!


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    <-<-<- Cruising is not a "Point A to Point B" thing, but an "Everything in between thing!  <-<-<-
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    Post by haggisholder Sat Sep 07, 2013 7:57 pm

    What's the procedure to aim the headlights?  I've seen for some vehicles, there is a set point away from a garage door where the beam should focus x amount of inches above the ground, etc.  Mine are pointing way too low.

    Looks like the transmission rear seal is leaky as well. Would like to change that when I flush the transmission. Is it a single or two piece seal and what's the best way to remove and reinstall?

    Sometimes when I coast to a stop sign, the engine dies. Perhaps the idle circuit in the carb is gunked? Maybe time to yank the carb and go through it. Or do you guys recommend just getting a rebuilt? I've been in many carbs before. How long do the new rebuild kit gaskets last with this new crap fuel?
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    Post by donivan65 Sat Sep 07, 2013 9:56 pm

    Measure how far up the center of the headlight is off the ground,,,,,,pull up 25 feet away from a wall or something,,,,,adjust the headlights so each center of the  headlight hits the wall the same height that the headlights on the van are,,,,,,,adjust the side to side by driving down the road and see if the lights shine in front of you ,,,,,,,,,,,buy a seal,,,, pull the driveshaft,,,,,see that the yoke is not chewed up,,,,,catch any oil if it comes out,,,,pop the seal out with a screwdriver,,,,,,,put some Permatex or RTV on the outside of the new seal,,,,,pound it in,,,,put the driveshaft back on,,,,,
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    Post by haggisholder Wed Oct 16, 2013 8:45 am

    How do I get ahold of some factory color green and white paint?

    I know there should be paint codes but if anyone knows a source of good acrylic or urethane in the proper color, let me know, thanks.
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    Post by Twinpilot001 Wed Oct 16, 2013 9:28 am

    the paint is likely available in any good paint wholesaler!! Or=? Google the paint codes  for your van & year???????????????cheers
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    Post by Twinpilot001 Wed Oct 16, 2013 9:33 am

    http://www.clean-rite.com/storelocator.html http://www.manta.com/c/mtbttzs/purple-power-products Maybe that will help ?????????????? Daytona beach distributor too!!

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