1966 Chevy Sportvan questions

G-Man wrote:I'm from Michigan and that van looks great to me, nothing there that can't be made to look great again

thanks for the encouragement

donivan65 wrote:Everything is fixable,,,,,,,it just depends on your skills, tools, knowledge, time, space, equipment and how much MONEY you have or want to spend,,,,,,,you do it because you want that van,,,,,,surely not to make a profit,,,,,,,

True enough.

I have the basic tools. Don't have an engine jack/hoist though. I can make time and money. I have a garage. I would like to do some work on it.

Body work on it - considering all of the rust - will challenge me. I do have an air brush and have painted my motorcycles and car. I have worked with bondo with good success but I have no experience with fiberglass, sheet metal, riveting, or welding. The rust along the bottom of the van between the wheels bothers me as well as some rust through where you rest your feet when driving (I could be a Fred Flintstone if I want)....

If I took it to have it painted, I'd get laughed at. I could mask and do some of my own painting. I could probably paint the top down to the edge of the white trim after getting rid of the rust. The trick would be sanding it down without getting overly aggressive. Would you guys suggest a combination of disc / hand sanding?

Of course individual peices can be removed and addressed separately, such as hub caps, doors, mirrors, bumpers, etc.

As far as the engine goes, I'd like to degrease it and look for seal/gasket leakage.

I also have a spare carb. I haven't looked at it in detail but I think it is a Webber carb. Can't remember if a family member was going to try it out or already did years back. Last I remember, the stock carb was yielding something like 10mpg. Does that sound about right?

Thanks

If I found one like that in Minnesota I would be in heaven!!! I got lucky with the one I have now as it was stored in a pole barn for over 20 years. All the other vans I have found up here I wouldn't even try towing because there would be nothing left by the time I got home. I replaced the rockers on mine... wasn't to bad, all metal and very little putty. If I had to do my rocker panels over again I would of molded my thrush sidepipes into them. That back corner should be able to be tapped out with a hammer and dolly and some patience.

Van looks like a very great start to me!!!!

It's definately do-able, Mine was no better or worse shape, ( im thinkin' worse).
Just takes time, gives a good exscuse to add to your tool collection also, lol,
The main thing to me is to keep it fun !

Amen to that, Digz! For a while I was stressing myself out with deadlines on my van project. But now I've gotten back to just enjoying the process.

There's a lot to do but most of it is fun with many challenging puzzles to figure out, parts to search for, info to find (usually with the help of this site). Plus it's a creative process too. Everyone does things their own way. That's what keeps it interesting.

I don't know what your local schools are like or your life situation, but I took a local college course for bodywork. What tools I didn't have they did, plus the instruction and a schedule to keep you on task.
I'll probably do the class again next semester, to finish the metal work.
If I was going for just a driver, it would be pretty much ready, but I'm hoping for a bit better result.
You can also take an engine class and a welding class to learn the skills and have access to the stuff needed to get your van back in shape.

I took a look under the gas tank due to a small leak. Looks like there is a metal hose just above the tank that is leaking. Is this sectional that I can replace and is it a standard size?

Take those Classes-Theyere GREAT ! also sometimes the instructor will take in your project for the new classes & just may have to pay for the materials & get the kids to work on it for the experience. We have done some engines & trannys & rear ends here like that..

Thanks for the help!

One other thing... on the underside near the rear bumper is a metal hydraulic hose. Looks like it's for brakes and probably used for braking for a trailer? This hose is not coupled/connected. I don't see any hydraulic fluid loss but shouldn't this be coupled?

Follow it up front. It's probably disconnected up there too.

Hi group,

Back after a 3 year hiatus.  Time to look into this project again.

The brakes are now fixed.  After having done that, I started the old gal up and carefully drove a number of miles.  There are a couple of new problems that have turned up.

The temp/oil pressure light after a time decided to flicker on me.  I drove the van back and parked it but I did notice that when I would rev the engine a little the light would turn off.  It would immediately come back on when I was not revving the engine.

I noticed a really hot area around the fan (heater core?) near the passenger footing area.  I went around to the front of the van and looked through the grill and could see a small coolant leak.  I need to make sure coolant is circulating but I wonder if there is a blocked heater core.

The old gal is oily on the underside and does drip a little oil but I am not sure how much yet.  I am hoping I can replace gaskets and that there aren't main oil seal/oil pressure issues.

Considering the evidence of coolant on the skid plate inside the front grill, I think I will start there.

However, the main clue is that the warning light seems to be tied to engine RPM.  If I accelerate down the road with increasing RPM, the light goes off.  At idle, it comes on.  I'll bet someone else on this forum has seen a similar problem.

if the heater core is plugged, the area by the passengers feet will be cold,,,,,,,normally there is no shut off valve on a van,,,,,,200 degree coolant is always flowing into the heater and van,,,,,,I put a Bronco heater control valve in the heater hose to turn the flow of coolant on and off when I want,,,,,,see if you got a valve above the distributor,,,,,,

donivan65 wrote:Could be that is the charging system idiot light that someone stuck in the temp/oil hole in the dash,,,,,,,unplug the wire from the oil pressure switch by the dipstick,,,,,ground it,,,,,turn on ignition,,,,,the oil light should come on,,,,,,,,  

Good thinking.

This van is a direct hand-me-down from Dad, who bought it new and has been the only owner. I'm sure he hasn't changed anything.

However, since this light represents 2 trouble conditions, and from reading another post on the forum, I should be able to troubleshoot by simply disconnecting one switch at a time, correct?

Off to find a schematic...

You've already been a huge help. Thanks.

donivan65 wrote:if the heater core is plugged, the area by the passengers feet will be cold,,,,,,,normally there is no shut off valve on a van,,,,,,200 degree coolant is always flowing into the heater and van,,,,,,I put a Bronco heater control valve in the heater hose to turn the flow of coolant on and off when I want,,,,,,see if you got a valve above the distributor,,,,,,

So this means the coolant can flow around the core if the core is plugged.... that's a good thing. It does seem strange that the area around the fan (duct) got too hot to touch. I don't remember that ever happening...

https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t23590-temp-light-always-on?highlight=temp+gauge

I was looking at the above thread and will use it for troubleshooting...

donivan65 wrote:[..]and its purpose is to come on AFTER  you lost oil pressure or overheated the engine,,,,,,,you really need a voltmeter and a temperature gauge on your van to stop problems BEFORE they happen,,,,,,,you can leave the oil light on it,,,,but a gauge is useless,,,,,,,

Thanks Donivan.

So it either ran too hot or low on oil pressure...  The van is not onsite right now so I just have to speculate until I can move it onsite.  

However, I'm still thinking that the flickering light is the clue.  At idle, the light pretty much came on and stayed on, but only after driving for a bit.  When the engine was revved or when driving over say 25mph, the light would go off.

I will check charging voltage next time I can.  I will also check that the coolant is properly circulating.  And though the shop "serviced" the van, I now have to wonder if they got the oil level correct....

Maybe I misunderstood.  Are you saying a modern oil pressure/temp gauge is useless?

Good news.

I was able to check out the van again yesterday. Oil and coolant have been replaced.

Started and idled the engine for a few minutes and the oil/temp light was on from the beginning - right away. However, after a quick drive around the block the light mostly went off. With a little more driving, the light stayed off almost entirely, with just an occasional flicker. There was no sign of overheating or other trouble so I took it out on the highway for a few miles and gently took her to about 55 and she ran perfectly. No light, engine purred just great, no overheating... Even when I turned off on a dirt road and slowed to make turns the light stayed off. Almost as if it just needed a little driving to work out the kinks.

It will need some things.. windshield is broken, so if anyone has any tips on that, I'd appreciate it. The heater core seems to be a problem as well. Not sure if there are any of the *correct* cores left out there or not. And maybe some lens covers. That's about it. It will otherwise pass inspection, so the local shop says...

cores are avail. also see youtube for cleaning a core out!!.Likely change out the old oil pressure sender if electric?? or clean the metal line to the gague if mechanical.

donivan65 wrote:

You pretty much are a vintage van God, aren't you... Thanks a lot, that is going to help big time! Now off to get info on windshield replacement....

Twinpilot001 wrote:cores are avail. also see youtube for  cleaning a core out!!.Likely change out the old oil pressure sender  if electric?? or  clean the metal line to the gague if mechanical.

Thanks, I'm off to check into it!