Reading through this here and there,, and didn't see anyone address the new AMP problem??? Please correct me if I have skipped through it too quickly?
I have been posting for years since I bumped into the subject and gotten a lot of information on the AMP usage, start up usage and charging. Found the two fan units a while back and using them for the Fords, but see the Chevy guys using it now also. Regardless, some other important issues that maybe you can apply also.
Firstly an issue that I found about years ago also, was that ANY belt is only good for a maximum of 80 AMPS,, no matter how tight you set a single belt, its maximum load is 80 AMPS. The guy from MAD apparently didn't do his home work on that issue (the normal Chevy versus Ford chiming) which I could care less about. What I want is the information!! The guy is a genius as far as electrical goes, just did not seem to realize the importance of a dual belt setup.
The reason that that is important is, the Taurus start up AMPERAGE is very high, and still high when used. So, in order to not eat up the voltage faster than the alternator can replace it. I use the Ford 3G alternator, with a minimum of a two belt setup. It puts out 90 AMPS at 600 RPM, which is what you need when you are over heating in stop and go traffic. The normal alternator can only put out around 100 amps at full RPM.. This one cranks out 90 AMPS at idle!! and up to 150 at full tilt. Also a very small unit and the one that is being used by most hot rods now. There is a Delco unit also that does the same. If anyone is interested I can post the links on that setup also.
So, my point is that when I viewed the pictures above, I see a single belt alternator with a fan on it. The 3G although a Ford, has no fan, a minimum two belt pulley (mostly serp which is what I set mine up with) I have some info and good links on the Chevy Delco equivalent setup.
ALSO,, I stumbled into the Volvo two speed fan and its dual relay setup to control it. Also, using a two temperature single unit thermostats from a BMW that goes right into the radiator. Of that unit, there are two temperature ranges available.
The last time I hit the bone yard, I simply broke the thermostat out of the plastic part of the radiator complete with the brass part. It is a mml thread, and so just turned a bunch of them down to solder into my radiators. The combo of these two makes it very clean and easy to do, along with having a single unit with two temperatures in it. Here are a few pictures and if someone would like the links that I have I would be happy to send all the info.
The VOLVO two speed fan is a very nice unit, and almost lifted itself off of the ground when I hooked it up. Its a perfect candidate for the Fords as it is 18" in a complete round unit, with four mounting holes. I haven't put one on a truck yet as with it I need to make a shroud.
Also, I noticed some info on some one using a PUSHER fan, and found some info from one of the fan manufacturers reinforcing my opinion that a pusher is less efficient than a puller.
ALSO,, about 15 years ago, I came up with a remote transmission cooler with a fan on it, and use it on all my conversions for people. It removes so much heat from the cooling load of the radiator it just seems stupid to not use it. Especially in stop and go when everything is just cooking itself to death. I wire it hot all the time using a relay of course, also install a canister filter for the tranny at the same time, remote fan pushing the hot air downwards,, works very well, Over 15 years and not a hiccup yet with it..