Cool down that engine

Installing the Taurus/Sable two speed 17" enecric fan or the Lincon MK VIII 18" two speed electric fan with a now availible wiring relay kit.

Be informed: these cars also come with other fans as well including some three wire fans that actually have one winding and need the oem modual to make them run variable speed. You want the three wire fan that has "two speeds". This fan also comes in some mustangs but the shroud is not square.

Those Taurus fans with shroud fit the GM cross flow 2nd gen rad with about 95% coverage. The lincon fan might cover more but is much less abumdent in the yards. They can be fit to the upright rads and would probly fit well into the Dodge and Ford Vans and vanups well.

The wiring kit manages the current draw issuse well and uses (or comes with) engine sensors, (not a rad temp sensor)

(pictures of fan install 65 chev with V8 cross flow rad)
http://www.vcvc.org/ubb/Forum2/HTML/002652.html


This guy has done the homework, well thought out and ready to go, and is the only options for sale as kits, yes you could hunt up a bunch of parts and design your own but not likely for less unless you get your parts for free. Roughly $100 gets you everything you need including engine temp switches. Add another $50 for a used fan and your in at half the price of any aftermarket fan kit. By the way there is no aftermarket fan that has the CFM of this fan and there is no other aftermarket electricl control system as logicaly acurate as this. Yes you can get those ones that have a sensor you stuff through the rad but ask yourself this. Are you trying to control the tempurature of you engine? or are trying to control the tempurature of your rad?

http://www.thehollisterroadcompany.com/MarkVIII.html

http://www.hollisterroad.com/products.asp?cat=Cooling+System

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Taurus-Lincoln-Mark-VIII-2-Speed-Fan-Relay-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c119023fdQQitemZ120553743357QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

This two speed fan and control relays affer a wide veriety of options. I will be using the basic kit because my ECM will provide the signal for the low speed and my engine has a higher 2nd temp switch in the head to triger the high speed. You can buy this kit with two different temp switches or just one lower temp switch to triger the low speed and use a manual switch or rad type adjustable probe to triger the high speed. In any case you can also add a grounding manual switch into either speed to manually turn the fan on. I am going to be adding in a "dog house" temp switch (you see then bolted to the engine on VW and other imports) to turn the fan on and off automatically (low speed) with the ingnition off to circulate cooling air and reduce heat saturation after shut down. You probobly don't want the fan on high with the engine not running as the fan draws so much current on high it will probobly kill the battery. It is recomended you have at least a 100 AMP alternator.


M1D

I installed a lincoln mark VIII fan in mine and it's a great fit... covers about 99% of the core of the radiator. Made my own harness with a couple of 40 amp relays and an 80 amp relay. Still working on the temp sensors... I only have one port on the intake and that's being used by the temp gauge in my dash... I put a sensor in the upper rad hose and thinking about just hooking up a manual switch for low speed. Not quite sure how that rad hose sensor is going to work out... I'd rather have it right on the engine???

I am running a Taurus fan in mine using a 75 amp relay and a cheap in the hose sensor switch for the High speed,hooked low speed to a relay and a manual switch just in case something goes wrong with the high speed set up. I have heard one guy say the sensor broke off his so if and when that happens I will go to a different set-up.sure keeps the 289 cool tho very pleased with my results so far been done for a few months and I can idle in traffic with no problems.Working on power windows now using explorer motors.Running a 130 Amp alt. out of a 96 cougar.

I used something similar to this on my upper hose...

mo_1040 what engine do you have?

M1D

I have a 350 with an edelbrock performer intake...I didn't have that upper hose thingy in when I took this pic.

Your 350 cylinder heads are identical, the left one had a place for the sensor just above and aft of cylinder #1 spark plug hole and the right head has the same place just above and fwd of cylinder #8 spark plug hole. I think its a 3/8 pipe thread but I can't remember.

M1D

Installing the Taurus/Sable two speed 17" electric fan or the Lincon MK VIII 18" two speed electric fan with a now available wiring relay kit.

Be informed: these cars also come with other fans as well including some three wire fans that actually have one winding and need the oem module to make them run variable speed. You want the three wire fan that has "two speeds". This fan also comes in some mustangs but the shroud is not square.

Those Taurus fans with shroud fit the GM cross flow 2nd gen rad with about 95% coverage. The lincon fan might cover more but is much less abundant in the yards. They can be fit to the upright rads and would probobly fit well into the Dodge and Ford Vans and vanups well.

The wiring kit manages the current draw issues well and uses (or comes with) engine sensors, (not a rad temp sensor)

(pictures of fan install 65 chev with V8 cross flow rad)
http://www.vcvc.org/ubb/Forum2/HTML/002652.html


This guy has done the homework, well thought out and ready to go, and is the only options for sale as kits, yes you could hunt up a bunch of parts and design your own but not likely for less unless you get your parts for free. Roughly $100 gets you everything you need including engine temp switches. Add another $50 for a used fan and you’re in at half the price of any aftermarket fan kit. By the way there is no aftermarket fan that has the CFM of this fan and there is no other aftermarket electrical control system as logically accurate as this. Yes you can get those ones that have a sensor you stuff through the rad but ask yourself this. Are you trying to control the temperature of you engine? or are trying to control the temperature of your rad?

http://www.thehollisterroadcompany.com/MarkVIII.html

http://www.hollisterroad.com/products.asp?cat=Cooling+System


This two speed fan and control relays after a wide variety of options. I will be using the basic kit because my ECM will provide the signal for the low speed and my engine has a higher 2nd temp switch in the head to trigger the high speed. You can buy this kit with two different temp switches or just one lower temp switch to trigger the low speed and use a manual switch or rad type adjustable probe to trigger the high speed. In any case you can also add a grounding manual switch into either speed to manually turn the fan on. I am going to be adding in a "dog house" temp switch (you see then bolted to the engine on VW and other imports) to turn the fan on and off automatically (low speed) with the ignition off to circulate cooling air and reduce heat saturation after shut down. You probably don't want the fan on high with the engine not running as the fan draws so much current on high it will probably kill the battery. It is recommended you have at least a 100 AMP alternator.


M1D

Just a Thought = from an old school guy on engine cooling issues. The cooling issue is (from early days) improved greatly by The Shroud and fans ,that were b extended into the shroud by 1-3 inches. Today we seem interested with electric fams & no engine driven fans. From experiences with many rods- Ihave relied on the factory or owner fabed shrouds & eng. driven fans for cooling- even with the clutch types. I have installed some electric fans - pusher types in front of radiators and found -only in long extended traffic stops i might need to use them.Not Very Often. also = remember the now modern electric fans are mainly designed to raise motor temps up high for emissions and turn "ON" only way over 220 degrees- and at that temp- i start to be concerned with engine damage / overheating . I personally like a temp of 170-180 degrees and I might add - the serpentine belys are nice & custom pulleys "eye candy" and when one belt breaks - youre dead on the road till it gets replaced. The old V=belts mostly would get you to a plave / autoparts so you could replace the bad belt, and i know i personally always kept that old set of v belts in the car i was driving - just in case?? This is a great thread on cooling to all whose posted. Keepin it cool in "Vannin"

im running a single 16in elect puller with a 185 on 165 off switch and relay set up, on my 67 with the 230. never gets hot works great.

mo_1040 wrote:I used something similar to this on my upper hose...

Anyone know where I can get one of these? This is exactly what I'm looking for.

Dan

Summit and jegs have them I think ,, I was looking to ,, but geeze they are a bit costly for no more than what they are.

Thx. Joe. I'll check it out....

Dan

Anyone have a direct link? Can't find this puppy anywhere on the Jeg's or Summit sites....

DanTheVanMan wrote:Anyone have a direct link? Can't find this puppy anywhere on the Jeg's or Summit sites....

http://www.jegs.com/ECatalog/full.asp?page=46 part # 400-32082 or 400-32084 or http://www.steigerperformance.com/products/sp40001.html

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLOX-Water-HOSE-Temp-Sensor-Adaptor-34MM-/310176685788?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4837f89edc

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Radiator-Sensor-Tube-Adapter-Water-Temp-Gauge-1-1-2-OD-/140495697831?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=%257B%2522Page%2522%253A%2522%252FCooling-System-%252F33599%252Fi.html%253F_trkparms%253D65%2525253A12%2525257C39%2525253A3%2525257C72%2525253A4390%2526rt%253Dnc%2526_dmd%253D3%2526_dmpt%253DMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories%2526_qfkw%253D1%2526_trksid%253Dp4506.c0.m245.l1513%2526_vc%253D1%2526_pgn%253D3%2526hash%253Ditem20b63237a7%2522%257D

I got mine off of eBay....they are a lot cheaper...should be able to get one for less than $20
Come in many different sizes....

Working on my lincoln 2 speed fan and think I'm just confusing myself the more I read and think about this... I went with the wiring diagram that was sent to me with the fan when I bought it off of eBay. So what I have now is the fan starts on low(from temp sensor on radiator) and will go on high when the motor temp sensor kicks in. High speed will not run unless low speed is running first. I guess my question is what temp would I want my low speed to kick on at and what temp sensor would I want on the engine block(180 degree thermostat). 195 on, 185 off???
I think I've over thought this so much I got myself going in loops
Or would I want the block sensor to control low speed and the rad temp sensor to control high speed???

You probobly want the cooler switch to be in the rad.

In terms of numbers I would need to know where in the rad, inlet or outlet tank? and where in the engine, thermostat housing, or intake or cylinder head?

I would like to see the wiring diagram they gave with the fan.

M1D

Here's a copy of the diagram that was sent to me...

The rad sensor in the inlet(top hose-crossflow) I would like to put the other sensor in the cylinder head.

might have to click on the picture to see the whole thing.
Also checked on the head by #1 cylinder and have 1/2 pipe thread... all the sensors i find are 3/8... from all that I have read they say to stay away from the adapters so what other choices are there?

I don't like that wire set up at all. This is why,

The 100 amp fuse and 6 GA wire is way overkill. 50 amp and 10 GA is whats needed there. The fan draws 45 amps on high and may spike to 100 if it ever starts on high. A "slow blow" or heavy duty 50 amp fuse or a 50 amp breaker is best.

This is a backwards way of using those relays. It is set so that only one speed runs at a time which is right however the middle relay is being used to shut off the low speed when the high speed comes on which is again overkill. If you look at my diagram above you will see that same single speed control being achieved with only two relays. This is a significant difference because the problem with the three relays wired up that way is if there is ever any problem with the middle relay or the primary wiring controling it you are going to end up with both low and high speed on at the same time which will burn out the fan motor in short order.

The addapter in the upper hose is the same as the thermostat housing, I would run a switch in that to triger the low fan at around 185 to 190.

I have a 210 switch in my cylinder head.

If you go into NAPA and get somebody who knows how to use their paper books, they can look up coolant fan switches by "off/on" tempetures and thread size and get you the exact switch you want.

I am suprized you cyl head has a 1/2" pipe thread hole, that seems very big. I will check mine out tomoro.

M1D

Checked the head again, I do have a 1/2 pipe thread in cyl head, O'reillys found 2 sensors with 1/2 but no specs on the temp ranges? I redid my harness to go with 2 relays so now my plan is to put the low sensor next to the thermostat(180 degree) and the high in the cyl head. Now the question of temp ranges. I was thinking 185 on/170 off for the low and 200 on/185 off for the high. Does this sound alright?

185 or 200 are the temps where each switch will trip, either on or off. Just like a thermostat that will open at 180 will also close at 180.

Am wondering where in the cylinder head that the port is... thinking if the port is located where coolant is exiting the water pump, then you would want the 185 there... gives the best reading of the coolant temp after it leaves the rad. Coolant leaving the thermostat has already cycled through the engine. If it was to be over 200, then you would probably want high speed fan to cool it off more rapidly.

I guess what I am saying is to figure out what order to put the switches so that the fan will naturally step from off to low to high, and back down again right in line with the coolant temp.

mo 1040
That sounds good to me, however you might want the one in the head a little hotter. Mine is a 224-236 on and 212 off, but my engine needs to run at 224*

I always test my new sensor switches in a pot of water on the stove with an ohm meter conected to the switch and a thermometer in the water and I boil it up and take it off the heat to watch its on and off temps.

On your cyliner head, are you talking about the threaded port on the side between two spark plug holes (more or less). Each head will have that port, use the one on the right head so the switch is between the two rear cylinders.



Give me the part numbers of those switches you are looking at and I will cross reference them to see if I can get the specs.

M1D

mo 1040; The temp values you are proposting for the two switches are good numbers.
More on that, the key feture of that relay set up shown in the drawing provide by Dan Thevanman are; #1 that relay set up is designed to cause the fan to always start on low speed first and then step up to high if needed. This is to prevent the 100 amp spike of starting the fan from off to high speed. This key feature can be overruled if the two sensor switches donnot activate as expected. In other words if the high speed side comes on first, that will defeet the whole point of it.
I bring this up because its one thing to have the two switches happen at different tempetures but you must also consider how hot it gets where that sensor switch is placed. The cylinder head does get hotter then the thermostat or upper rad hose. It makes sence to put the higher temp switch into the head to run the high speed of the fan. However if there is not enough spread in activation temperatures of your two switch choices you may get the high speed side being activated before the lowspeed has a chance to start. and that would defeet the main feature of this relay set up.
All I am trying to say here is I think your sensor switch temperature choices are good with the 185/170* in the upper rad hose and the 200/185* in the cylinder head but if you find the high speed starting up first then you might need to change to a 215/200* switch for the head or something like that.

The #2 feature of that fan relay set up is, if either sensor switch or relay fails the other side will still run the fan independantly.

On the relays. it is best if the low speed relay be a 40 amp minnimun and the high speed relay be a 75 amp relay. They could both be 75 amp relays if you like.
You might ask why my set up has three relays.My set up uses three 40 amp relays for convineince sake only. The high side on mine has two 40 amp relays in parralel to share the load. Its just a different way of doing it and I think the described benafits of three relays are questionable anyway.

M1D